Osei

Nice and clean!! Hope the undercarriage is near that. The only issue you will have over time are the worn bushings. 25 year old bushings allow a little more movement. I am holding out for an Outback in this gen, as I possess 4 struts bought for a clean vehicle, but developed electrical issues that I could not resolve. Best of fortune. O.

Wagons, yes., although the Outbacks with that funny cladding, will also fit. O.

What code are you getting? O.

If you are buying a kit, why are you not buying one made for a Subaru? O.

Non turbo. I can see fuel trims, but I don't know what I am looking at or for. Will start to flutter at 4100 and will not go further. Will scan tomorrow and post results. O.

05 2.5I, MT. Recently starting getting inability to rev past 4K. No stumbling or anything else until I get just past 4k. Occurs in any gear. Have access to an Autel scanner, but so far can't pin it down. Does not seem like fuel starvation, but what do I know? Nor like a partially clogged cat. Unplug the TPS at TB ( DBW). After a few minutes of learning, it revs to redline, but after 5 minutes or less of actual driving, it starts again. No codes, so am at a loss. Suggestions? O.

Good to hear that issues are resolved. O.

If you go to the dash removal in Body section, page 136 shows the color and pin count of the connectors. O.

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.

Timing insofar as the belt still on or close to marks. O

It can,google may help. Don't remember procedure. Easy to grab one from a pick and pull if you have one near. Also pull your cam sensor and make sure it's not covered in grime. Had a similar issue years ago, but rough running. Turned out that the sensor wasn't getting proper signal because of the grime on the sensor. Is the timing correct? O.

Next is to check the igniter, which is on the firewall. O.

Glad to hear you've had that major issue fixed I would look into adapting a radiator from another vehicle. Perhaps someone who works on race cars. All you need are tranny coolant lines and a way to attach the current fans or use others. Will look to see if I still have a TPS laying around. O.

Welcome. Looks good, enjoy! O.

Ok. Just for the hell of it, swap the wires from 1 & 3 to 2 & 4. Clear codes and start engine and see if codes return to 1 and 3. O.

Check your coil. see attached. 1 & 3 are on the same side of the coil. FSM here:http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ ignition coil and ignitor assembly.pdf

The cover is good to have, but not essential. Just cover the hole with duct tape. As long as the keyway is not damaged (which you can fix by peening). If a key is needed, Autozone should have one, If not another auto store. Even this is not a must, as long as its torqued properly. O.

Since the original lasted 26 years, no need to pay extra for the alloy unit. Get the generic replacement or pull one from the boneyard. All of the EJ series use the same pulley. Torque to at least 125 ft lbs. Use the access hole on the pass. side to use a screwdriver to hold the flex plate. Make sure the driver is not bearing against a sensor of some sort. O.

You did turn the dial on the left of the instrument panel right? O.

are you getting any codes? Which two cylinders? Are you getting signals to the injectors? Wires good? Why do you think it's the injectors? Once the 12mm bolts are out, the injector should come up with the rail attached, as the hose allows movement. You have to remove all the bolts on the side you are working on to get the flex. If you need to remove them, use an impact screwdriver if available. If not, spray screws with PB first, set the driver and tap to break the tension. Then unscrew, make sure the driver fits the screw correctly. Pry gently on the housing and they will usually start coming up. Lubricate the o ring on install. There are a total of 3 o rings. One in the intake, one at injector tip and one on the top under the cover. If you damage the one at the tip, you'll have hell trying to get one to fit properly. O.

Have not had the "pleasure" to have to trace this, but here is link to FSM. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ Go to the body section. The pdf ending in 8160 covers the security system. In your case the module is on the passenger side. O.

The Alpine system was the factory option. Go to cars101.com here and see how to program. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html O.

Look through wiring section in FSM here. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ O.

Electrical work i am not good at. But, in the body electrical section file ending in 6376, covers the switch itself. Position a1 on the connector is your constant 12v. The early manuals like this are not named, just numbered, so they are hard to find specifics, but they are they. Good luck.

The 96 and some 97's came with the two piece tensioner. O.