DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Tough times = No mods. Speaking about tough times, she caught a flat today while I was dropping my grandfather off at his friend's house. FWD switch is on & I feel like I'm riding on a horse w/arthritis in 3 legs. I will be finding a way to fix this soon. I HATE broken glass in the street. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Join the club. I got a flat two weeks ago from what looked like a poorly cleaned-up accident...puncture right through the sidewall. Really? Cmon people, at least go through the tread so I can plug it! I was out $400 for two new rear tires and all the frills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Using FWD mode & doing the speed limits, because that's about as fast as I can travel, the scan tool picks up a consistent 33-35mpg highway. I can tell that the 22D is a little unrestrained without the AWD engaged & since I'm driving the car "on a crutch" so to speak, I am not in a position to try & test limits. I'd like to really test the car's "high" performance in FWD mode but Duty C solenoids are not things I have in abundance. To chalk it up though, FWD = good straight line delivery, crappy handling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Today's Log: Using nearly all of the money I earned from working on cars this week, the car now has 4 "new" tires (new as in I bought Bridgestones w/about 90% tread left). Flame me all you want but I needed them. Driving the car in it's crippled state was getting on my nerves. The scanner read the engine load at 2% @ idle w/the FWD switch on & 3% with AWD on, which means that the FWD switch definitely works. I'm going to do an acceleration video tomorrow, if I can find an empty, open road. I also ended up buying a new camera so I'll be putting up much better pictures/video of it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Who cares if they're used. If they're good, and you really need them, then why not. I bought just one used Yokohama tire for mine two weeks ago for $35. I didn't even buy it. A friend did because I couldn't afford it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMFqfZfdXrU&feature=plcp]1998 Subaru Legacy GT Limited w/DOHC EJ22E - YouTube[/ame] Alive & well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Niceeee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Water Pump w/Timing Belt: $75 Head Gasket Set w/seals & bolts: $75 (I threw away the crappy head gaskets). Tomei Timing Belt Guide: $50 Grimmspeed Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacers: $71 Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gasket: $10 (Needed 2 gaskets for the spacer). Oil Separator Plate: $26 11mm STi Oil Pump: $130 MSD Ignition Coil: $80 (Haven't installed that yet...). Transmission Cooler: $50 (Haven't installed that yet...). Blue Subaru Oil Filter: $15 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug: $10 (You really WANT this after rebuilding an engine). Victor Reinz MLS Head Gaskets: $142 (These are EXCELLENT so far). EJ22E w/100Kmi: $400 (I sold the SOHC heads & got back $50). Total cost is almost $1,200. I discovered that the previous owner was kind enough to replace the gas tank & the fuel filler neck. Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 This morning, as I was coming home from buying groceries, I noticed a little "kick" between 1 & 2. Did a transmission fluid replacement & drove the car again. I found that it went away, just not entirely. I have a feeling that it won't go away either. I can live with it since the transmission doesn't bind or anything like that. There are no warning lights so I think I'm good. It still feels as smooth shifting from 2-3-4 without any issues so I'm just thinking that the transmission has become of THAT age. My first L did the same thing & never had any real transmission issues so I'm guessing this one is doing the same thing. I've learned that these ATs in particular are pretty tough & hard to kill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Have you tried some trans-x in the transmission? I used it on my 4EAT back in the day that had a jolt 1-2 and a lag 2-3...it did a decent job cleaning up the rough shifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Have you tried some trans-x in the transmission? I used it on my 4EAT back in the day that had a jolt 1-2 and a lag 2-3...it did a decent job cleaning up the rough shifting. I haven't. Just gave it a fluid change. That's a good idea & I'll try that next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDbg6Tev8no&feature=plcp]The EJ22D is born. - YouTube[/ame] This is a video I took shortly after the EJ22D's completion. Forgive the quality as my iPod was the only thing I had at the time of taking pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 26, 2012 Author Share Posted September 26, 2012 An ugly scenario happened today. I noticed a good pool of oil bleeding from the passenger side head & immediately took the car home to discover that the leak is coming from the lower cam seal on the passenger side head. I don't know how that was able to happen but I will find & fix the cause of the problem. I'm thinking that it was most likely an error of mine that did this & it's time to correct it as soon as possible. This engine will not see failure. Even though EJ22s are as tough as iron, lack of sufficient oil will kill any combustion engine & having an 11mm oil pump will speed that process up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 About 1700mi into the 22D, I discovered an bad oil leak that I eventually tracked down to the lower cam seal on the passenger side head. I will admit to & take responsibility to this error. Let's start with removing the oil plug. I am a firm believer that everyone who owns an EJ (or any engine for that matter) should have magnetic oil plugs for everything that uses oil/fluids, like the engine/transmission/differentials. You never know what you may find when you remove it after use: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0253.jpg What it SHOULD look like: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0254.jpg I am confident that the next oil change will yield smooth operation like before I can't even imagine how much crap the blue filter caught! Everyone here should know how to get to & remove everything on their way to the timing cover & all of the components within. II skipped the photos on that introduction this time on that assumption. http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0256.jpg After removing all of that, I confirmed that somehow, the seal had come loose & out a bit. It doesn't look like much but it was enough to drain nearly 4 quarts in 3 days. http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DSCN0257.jpg I ordered new seals (OEM this time) & they should be here in a week. I'm thinking about getting a new exhaust & a lightened pulley while I have this all apart. I'm probably going to port the heads & intake manifold to flow & match better too but I'm still deciding whether I should do that or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DurkaDur Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Yeah before I assemble my 22D I'll be replacing all the cam seals too. It's funny seeing you on here and Ctsubie haha. Good luck with it man, once I complete mine we will have to meet up and check out each others cars. Mine will be slightly different as you know I'm going turbo. My new plan for tuning is to just wire in a 2003/4 wrx ecu and harness and run it at whatever those run stock for boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Yeah before I assemble my 22D I'll be replacing all the cam seals too. It's funny seeing you on here and Ctsubie haha. Good luck with it man, once I complete mine we will have to meet up and check out each others cars. Mine will be slightly different as you know I'm going turbo. My new plan for tuning is to just wire in a 2003/4 wrx ecu and harness and run it at whatever those run stock for boost. If you're going to do that, make sure you use all of the sensors/heads/wiring harness & cam gear/crank gear needed for the WRX ECU so you can run it with no issues. Also, that ECU will have to be wired into the dash cluster & some sensors/solenoids/pumps around the car as well. The first thread on the 2nd Gen page dealing with mods will give you a basic rundown of what can be done with these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DurkaDur Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 wow if its that much work I won't bother then ha. I already have the 2.5 heads and everything else pretty much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 wow if its that much work I won't bother then ha. I already have the 2.5 heads and everything else pretty much The intake ports on the 25D heads could use a bit of opening up. An intake manifold spacer (if you have or can get a pair for about $70) will give you a good guide as to how open they should be. On that note, I WILL be grinding out the intake ports in the head & manifold for a bit more air flow. (Pics will be taken of this.) Also, never use aftermarket black cam seals as they are made in cheap quality. I learned from a Subaru tech that the OEM brown seals are much better than the black non-OEMs & are not prone to "rolling" out of place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAPOQ Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Damn, now I see all the love lol. DO WORK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 ^??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 He revived an old member's thread of mine & asked where the love was at there, then found it here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAPOQ Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 ^??? I was continuing a thought from another one of Dohc threads.... Problem? Edit: good timing :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 The updates are as follows. The car was down due to me attempting to battle an oil leak & the timing belt bracket bolt stripping upon start up. I didn't know I had saved the old style bracket, tensioner w/wheel but when I discovered it, I promptly put it on & now the car runs. I'm probably just going to buy a brand new bracket & tensioner when I have the luxury to do so. The mods are still on schedule. It will receive a lightweight crank pulley & upgraded brake rotors w/heavy duty pads & maybe a little more if I can pull together enough money by that time. Little by little, I'll be buying "additions" for it Here are some photos from this morning at the cemetery: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0368_zps4b937ace.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0370_zps6e5b1a0c.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0359_zps77392f7a.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0364_zps7a363675.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0363_zps12fd813a.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0362_zps0447e7d1.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0371_zps526d4153.jpg http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w40/Kenshin1984/DOHC%20EJ22E/DSCN0372_zps734da245.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Does the light pulley make that much of a difference? Might have to get one for ej20r if so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 Does the light pulley make that much of a difference? Might have to get one for ej20r if so It sure does. Make sure it is not undersized though. You want either a Perrin or Kartboy lightweight pulley. I've always gone w/Perrin & have never been disappointed. You will definitely tell the difference when your car is trying to pick up speed or decelerate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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