Nolmers06LGT Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 115k.. Definitely OEM parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 ………..Well, the 4th time was a charm as my right front had excessive road force. The difference was night and day after the technician was able to move the tire around on the wheel to match the high and low spots of each and totally eliminated the road force. My steering wheel is smooth as glass now……... You had a little bit of luck in that your "out of round" tire was already paired with an "out of round" wheel of equal magnitude. If your wheel had been almost perfectly round, then the road force match-mounting would have been a lot less effective at eliminating excessive road force. As you found out, and I am finding out, the person doing the road force match mounting and balancing makes a huge difference in the final result. It can be tough to find a tire tech who really knows how to get the most out of the Hunter GSP9700. I am still on the hunt for that tech! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Have you checked for a frozen caliper piston? From what others have said, it's quick and easy, just feel your wheels or rotors with your hands after a freeway drive, or check with an IR thermometer, for excessive heat. Assuming it could be a sticking caliper, wouldn't an EXCESSIVE amount of brake dust present itself as a symptom in contrast to other wheels? I can't see how it wouldn't if truly being shaved constantly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 At my dealer, you have to specifically ask for a Road Force match-mounting and balance, otherwise you will get the standard dynamic high speed balance. I plan on following up to confirm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Assuming it could be a sticking caliper, wouldn't an EXCESSIVE amount of brake dust present itself as a symptom in contrast to other wheels? I can't see how it wouldn't if truly being shaved constantly Depends on the pads. My old ones didn't make that much dust. Also my calipers were frozen, but weren't putting excessive force onto the pad. It basically wouldn't move in or out once it was stuck. I think it then puts an uneven force on the pads causing uneven wear but possibly not excessive dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Depends on the pads. My old ones didn't make that much dust. Also my calipers were frozen, but weren't putting excessive force onto the pad. It basically wouldn't move in or out once it was stuck. I think it then puts an uneven force on the pads causing uneven wear but possibly not excessive dust. Hmmm interesting.... Well to be fair and assume it COULD be that.... I do have ceramic pads, which by design as we know, do not "Dust" as much. But yea other then that, I'm not sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 To correct myself, some people have had excessive heat and wear on their pads due to the frozen caliper. In my case I did not. However my caliper piston was frozen and I could not compress it back into the caliper. Also turns out that the takes didn't fix my issue. My new axles arrived and they will be installed Monday. Crossing my fingers that this does the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 To correct myself, some people have had excessive heat and wear on their pads due to the frozen caliper. In my case I did not. However my caliper piston was frozen and I could not compress it back into the caliper. Also turns out that the takes didn't fix my issue. My new axles arrived and they will be installed Monday. Crossing my fingers that this does the trick. dang.... Well good luck, hope it fixes the problem! Please check back after with an update, I'm curious what the result will be. Whats your mileage/year? OEM axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 2005 LGT sedan with 93k miles. Not sure if the axles are OEM. I don't think they are. At a minimum they have been rebooted before. I'll know if they're OEM when I get them swapped on Monday. Will definitely post an update after the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 2005 LGT sedan with 93k miles. Not sure if the axles are OEM. I don't think they are. At a minimum they have been rebooted before. I'll know if they're OEM when I get them swapped on Monday. Will definitely post an update after the repair. Really!? I'm surprised by that for some reason... How do you know for certain they have been "Rebooted"? Cool sounds good. Yea I'm the original owner of mine, so I know damn well mine are OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 The guys at the local Subaru specialist said that the clamps on the boots aren't the same that the OEM boots have. That's the info in going on at the moment. My guess is that the actual axles were replaced with crappy reman or Chinese knock offs. I'll try to take pics of the Raxles and then pics of the ones that come off my car for comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 The guys at the local Subaru specialist said that the clamps on the boots aren't the same that the OEM boots have. That's the info in going on at the moment. My guess is that the actual axles were replaced with crappy reman or Chinese knock offs. I'll try to take pics of the Raxles and then pics of the ones that come off my car for comparison. Sounds good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 At only 49,000 miles, I am also experiencing steering wheel shimmy/vibration at 65-75mph. It started a few weeks ago right after I installed my new winter tires………..In the meantime I reinstalled my older Michelin AS tires, with only 5000 miles and 7 months on them, and I still have the steering wheel shimmy/vibration! Up to the point where I originally removed them to install the winters, there were no shimmy/vibration issues with the Michelins. Weird that I now have shimmy/vibration with both sets of tires…………. Partial success! With my Michelin tires, I solved the shimmy problem by rotating the front tires to the rear. Shimmy gone. Which means the Michelins that are now on the rear are going back to Discount Tire for reindexing on their wheels, and rebalancing (no Road Force balancer at the local DT store).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Tell them you want ALL of them "finger balanced" and you'll see and feel a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Tell them you want ALL of them "finger balanced" and you'll see and feel a difference. What does "finger balanced" mean? This is the first time I have heard that phrase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 What does "finger balanced" mean? This is the first time I have heard that phrase. They set the wheels up on a jig that locates them by the lug nut holes rather than by the center hole. It then balances the wheel on the exact same plane that you will be driving on. They'll know what you mean when you tell them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Sorry for taking so long to respond. I had my axles changed out with the ones I purchased from Raxles. The short story is that I still have my vibration. Even though it wasn't my core problem, these Raxles are fantastic. Ryan at TurboTime (local Subaru specialist) really liked the build quality and had only positive things to say as well. I highly recommend buying axles from these guys. I also had the rear differential mounts (the ones on the front of the diff) replaced since one was blown out. I added the whiteline insert bushings during the install. This didn't affect the vibration either. Both repairs improved the vehicle noticeably (fixing issues I didn't even know I was feeling). The axles removed slop in the drivetrain and greatly reduced the rotational play that the old junky ones had. The diff bushings and whiteline inserts also improved power transfer and removed slop. Now I'm chasing a new clunk noise from my FR wheel in addition to the continued highway vibration. Some days it's less noticeable, other days it drives me nuts. Will post an update when/if I find something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 bCaff have you replaced the end links on the front ? They are known to make noise when rolling over cracks in the driveway. How is the FR wheel bearing ? These things are known to for ones. If so use a OEM hub to replace it. Some have luck with NAPA ones too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj808 Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I just bought a used 2008 LGT with 87k miles on it and it have the same vibration my 05 LGT did at ~70 mph. I never did figure out what it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 bCaff have you replaced the end links on the front ? They are known to make noise when rolling over cracks in the driveway. How is the FR wheel bearing ? These things are known to for ones. If so use a OEM hub to replace it. Some have luck with NAPA ones too. Yeah, I'm running a whiteline front sway. Already had kartboys on it and just switched to whiteline end links instead. The clunk did start just before switching to the whitelines and didn't go away once switching. I also installed the sway bar clamps to keep it from drifting side to side. Also already replaced both front wheel bearings with OEM. Brakes were replaced before that with STi Brembos up front. The clunk can be related to the new konis and epic springs that I have. I'm taking it to the shop Monday to continue diagnosing everything with my mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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