bCaff Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 My last honda had the same problem but I never got a chance to diagnose it before it shredded its timing belt. Apparently Hondas are notorious for vibrating axles or cv joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 My last honda had the same problem but I never got a chance to diagnose it before it shredded its timing belt. Apparently Hondas are notorious for vibrating axles or cv joints. In my nearly 800,000 miles on Honda's this is a first I've heard. My last Honda went 140K without so much as torn CV boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 My last honda had the same problem but I never got a chance to diagnose it before it shredded its timing belt. Apparently Hondas are notorious for vibrating axles or cv joints. Mainly on the cheap after market "free life time replacement" axles. Never had a bad axle on my 216,000 mile civic until we began drag racing it with 12psi of boost. Had other civic's and Teg's as DD's that we bought used and went thur 4 free life time replcemant before I got a good one. Got to where I could R&R a axle in about 20 minutes in the driveway. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 So I had my wheels rebalanced and rotated over the weekend, absolutely no change in my steering wheel shake/shutter between 65-80... The dealer made a point to say it could be related to my tires (Which are relatively new, so thats a bit frustrating) after pointing out that they could be "Chopped up" or cupping from pressure inconsistency's which is frustrating considering that I try to keep my tires at consistent pressures but they just seem to fluctuate in pressure with the weather so easily. His method of confirming this "Cupping" issue was by running his hand backwards against the tred blocks on my tires which of course I did as well, and it's supposed to feel smooth from block to block but the tred splits you can feel a little edge on each tred block as you run your hand from front to back... Idk.. I'm convinced this issue will NEVER go away, I've had it as long as I can remember Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAP Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I had some wheel shake when braking on offramps to get off the freeway. I knew it wasn't brake rotors because the brake pedal didn't move. I replaced my control arm bushings last week with polyurethane versions and guess what.. no more wheel shake when braking at high speed. I replaced the bushings mainly because the round rear one on both passenger and driver side were torn. Since changing these bushings also fixed my wheel shake one can conclude that those torn bushings were allowing more movement in the control arm than I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 So I had my wheels rebalanced and rotated over the weekend, absolutely no change in my steering wheel shake/shutter between 65-80... The dealer made a point to say it could be related to my tires (Which are relatively new, so thats a bit frustrating) after pointing out that they could be "Chopped up" or cupping from pressure inconsistency's which is frustrating considering that I try to keep my tires at consistent pressures but they just seem to fluctuate in pressure with the weather so easily. His method of confirming this "Cupping" issue was by running his hand backwards against the tred blocks on my tires which of course I did as well, and it's supposed to feel smooth from block to block but the tred splits you can feel a little edge on each tred block as you run your hand from front to back... Idk.. I'm convinced this issue will NEVER go away, I've had it as long as I can remember I think you're dealing with a different problem based on all this. I would have made the dealer prove it was related to tires. Tell them to mount another wheel set on your car and test it. If the problem goes away with wheel swap..then you pay for that labor, if not, then.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I had some wheel shake when braking on offramps to get off the freeway. I knew it wasn't brake rotors because the brake pedal didn't move. I replaced my control arm bushings last week with polyurethane versions and guess what.. no more wheel shake when braking at high speed. I replaced the bushings mainly because the round rear one on both passenger and driver side were torn. Since changing these bushings also fixed my wheel shake one can conclude that those torn bushings were allowing more movement in the control arm than I thought. Yea I have actually replaced the rotors, pads, and lower control arm bushings with whitelines... None of that fixed my issue. Still the same. So still moving along the chain of possibles. I think you're dealing with a different problem based on all this. I would have made the dealer prove it was related to tires. Tell them to mount another wheel set on your car and test it. If the problem goes away with wheel swap..then you pay for that labor, if not, then.... Solid idea, yea I was dickin with a ton of other stuff with the timing belt, power steering pump, intercooler etc, so I'll revisit it when I get more time (And money ha), It's nothing outrageous just annoying not knowing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I might have to take a look at the bushings again. I've had the same issue with my old and new set of tires. Also had the tires balanced and rotated to verify it wasn't the tires, at least in my case. I also just changed struts and springs (was doing this irregardless of the vibration issue) and it didn't change anything for the vibe issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I might have to take a look at the bushings again. I've had the same issue with my old and new set of tires. Also had the tires balanced and rotated to verify it wasn't the tires, at least in my case. I also just changed struts and springs (was doing this irregardless of the vibration issue) and it didn't change anything for the vibe issue. Frustrating isn't it Part that drives me the most crazy is when I'm driving and feel any kind of shuddering in the wheels/steering wheel I just feel like I'm driving a junky car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Diving me up the wall and becoming a bottomless pit for my wallet! I just with I could find the issue with some certainty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Diving me up the wall and becoming a bottomless pit for my wallet! I just with I could find the issue with some certainty. Feel. Your. Pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 Legacy GT Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 So I had my wheels rebalanced and rotated over the weekend, absolutely no change in my steering wheel shake/shutter between 65-80... The dealer made a point to say it could be related to my tires (Which are relatively new, so thats a bit frustrating) after pointing out that they could be "Chopped up" or cupping from pressure inconsistency's which is frustrating considering that I try to keep my tires at consistent pressures but they just seem to fluctuate in pressure with the weather so easily. His method of confirming this "Cupping" issue was by running his hand backwards against the tred blocks on my tires which of course I did as well, and it's supposed to feel smooth from block to block but the tred splits you can feel a little edge on each tred block as you run your hand from front to back... Idk.. I'm convinced this issue will NEVER go away, I've had it as long as I can remember Did they Road force balance the tires? Did they show you a printout of each tires imbalance and road force? My tires were only a .5 oz out of balance but the right front had 16lbs of road force! Even with the factory wheels/tires it doesnt take much to feel a tire/wheel issue with these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Hmmmm you know I'm not entirely certain I think I may reach back out to them and see what they say about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jknepp Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 Thought I'd throw my grievance in here as well My wheel shakes between 65-80mph. Thought replacing the rear drivers side rim would fix it after mechanic said it was bent = still there There's slight pull to the passenger side when driving, and the shake isn't terrible but annoying. I've looked at my rotors and calipers and they all look bad and I wanted to install a new set all around anyways. As far as ordering parts that fit online, you may all know about rockauto.com but I recently found it buried in a thread on here and they seem to have their stuff right. I've ordered a few things and it's been all good. Just thought I'd share! edit: I'm only at 54k, so I'm guessing it sat awhile in a garage, which is why the brake systems look terrible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 117k, clunking/vibration under load through curves, and around 75mph. I'm leaning towards my passenger CV, but wheel bearings, CV's, and brakes are due. Ugh- driving me nuts. I should be doing the axle tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 117k, clunking/vibration under load through curves, and around 75mph. I'm leaning towards my passenger CV, but wheel bearings, CV's, and brakes are due. Ugh- driving me nuts. I should be doing the axle tonight. Keep us posted, would love to hear if the axle helps. I've been in the same situation. Brakes and bearings have been done, now I'm planning to order front axles from Raxles later this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 I didn't get a chance last night- pulled some OT instead. I'll keep you posted though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BADWRX Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hey Guys, I just picked up an 05 and it also has a very slight vibration in the steering wheel at around 60-65mph. I had the wheels re-balanced, new rotors...no change. I was wondering though.....could it be that someone along the way swapped in different lug nuts that are not conical "centering" nuts?? I wont be able to check on this until later but thought I would throw this out there to see what you think. Are the stock GT wheels a tight fit on the hub or do they require a hubcentric ring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Hey Guys, I just picked up an 05 and it also has a very slight vibration in the steering wheel at around 60-65mph. I had the wheels re-balanced, new rotors...no change. I was wondering though.....could it be that someone along the way swapped in different lug nuts that are not conical "centering" nuts?? I wont be able to check on this until later but thought I would throw this out there to see what you think. Are the stock GT wheels a tight fit on the hub or do they require a hubcentric ring? They're pretty tight- might as well rotate the tires and see if the vibration follows the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BADWRX Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 ok, I am going to arrange to have the re-balanced and checked on a Hunter RF this weekend. I really didnt want to pay for this as I am getting new tires next week but if a rim is bent I want to find out asap. In the event it is a CV/Axle...are they interchangeable with the Outback? How much to OEM's typically go for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 ok, I am going to arrange to have the re-balanced and checked on a Hunter RF this weekend. I really didnt want to pay for this as I am getting new tires next week but if a rim is bent I want to find out asap. In the event it is a CV/Axle...are they interchangeable with the Outback? How much to OEM's typically go for? Why wouldn't you wait until you put the new tires on and pay for the road force balance then? Would a bent wheel mean you would consider a new full set of wheels? Follow nolmers advice... a simple rotation is a cheap way to see if the vibration moves with the tires. You could try that this week, even for free. If the vibe changes front to rear after the rotation then it's a wheel or tire issue, if it's still up front then something else is wrong and not worth the money for road force. Not sure if the axles are interchangeable with an outback. Dealer pricing has been around $330-370 per axle new from Subaru. Raxles on the other hand are roughly $100 less per axle including the core charge. If you have genuine Subaru axles to send back you can get an additional $80 back per axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1BADWRX Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Good points bCaff, and thank you for the pricing info. I am travelling this week, so I am just trying to think of options in my head. Youre absolutely correct about the wheel rotation. Will do that first and proceed from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaru03 Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 You can get an autozone drive axle for $70 after core. Part number is 7336 I believe. I've had one in my outback xt for 6k miles no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 Thought I'd throw my grievance in here as well My wheel shakes between 65-80mph. Thought replacing the rear drivers side rim would fix it after mechanic said it was bent = still there Dude I'm not laughing at you... I'm laughing(Crying inside) because I was told the SAME DAMN THING by my tire guy, so I purchased a new rim as well... Not a sliver of difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 The Elusive "Wheel Shudder" persists... I'm trying to just practice positive reinforcement, and view it as a free "Hand massage" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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