mwiener2 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Your cars didn't pull to one side with a stuck caliper? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhawk222 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I've got a slight hum that I've isolated to the front driver side wheel. Gonna take everyhing apart to inspect. In the past year I've done rotors, pads, bearings, brake lines and bushings. My current hum is constant from start to stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverbullet05 Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Similar problem here, had a vibration when I hit 65mph. Got the rotors turned, replaced brake pads, and wheels balanced. The vibration isn't as noticeable now, but it is still there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Tang Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I've got a slight hum that I've isolated to the front driver side wheel. Gonna take everyhing apart to inspect. In the past year I've done rotors, pads, bearings, brake lines and bushings. My current hum is constant from start to stop. Keep us updated. I think I'm hearing more "hum" than before. Would that make this a bearing issue? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 mwiener2: I did not notice much pulling to one side when my caliper pistons froze. The drivers side when it happened was extreme, and I could barely drive the car. The passenger side was subtle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 Mine also did not pull to one side at all. The wheel however, got very hot. I could smell brakes cooking a bit a couple of the times it happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Tang Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 UPDATE: I took my car to AZP Installs in Kenilworth, NJ and after re-balancing and realignment, almost all vibration/shaking is gone. I noticed that all the wheel weights are located across from the valve stem, which leads me to think that my aftermarket wheels and the TPMS sensors TireRack supplied me could be the problem. Perhaps OEM and other aftermarket wheels are designed to work with specific sensors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelegacy22 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 just went thru the same this and mine was extremely bad and didnt know what it was. i got new tires, rotated tires got new rims, had an alighment and i still had the wobble and it was anything around 50mph+ it would be like you were shaking a crappy salt shaker over your corn on the cobb it was bad so i took it back in the my shop and we tore it all apart went thru it piece by piece and found this: front left caliper was hanging up and because of the hang up in the caliper it was affecting the right side and making the right side work harder than the left causing the right rotor to become out of balance with the drivers side and the drivers side caliper (sticking) made the rotor get hotter than it should causing it to warp in the end i replaced the calipers pads and rotors and what do you know it went away. in the end it was all originally all caused by the calipers or caliper sticking over a long period of time small stick in the caliper is hard to notice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 This sounds like similar vibration issues I've had off and on since I bought my '05 back in November. Mostly it's just subtle on the highway between 60-80mph. I had the car on the track at VIR yesterday and had some braking issues with vibration on moderate to hard braking from high speeds, but even this only occurred sporadically. I'll have to give my front calipers a closer inspection next time I have the opportunity. Is this caliper sticking issue related to the piston itself or just the slide pins needing more lubrication? If it requires replacing calipers I may wait and take a look at a new conversion coming out from KNS brakes for our cars. This conversion allows the use of Nissan 300ZX 4-pot calipers with our stock rotor size. Total cost minus new pads and rotors would be around $500-600 depending on the calipers you buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HalfastGT Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I have the same issue with 115,000 miles on mine. Took it to the local tire store since they just swapped out my winter tires onto the same stock rims. The guy took me back and showed me that one of my rims is way unbalanced. Time for a new rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick.legacy Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I have a problem at about 40 mph. My car has about 113,000 on it, and come to find out, I have a bent wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBad Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 bCafe: the issue is with the pistons not the slide pins. It's pretty easy to tell after you fully compress both pistons and inspect you will see that one of the two pistons won't fully retract flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Tang Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Is it worth rebuilding, or should I just buy a complete reman caliper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Sorry to bring back an older thread. Where did you guys but the new calipers from? We're they new OEM or just reman from your local parts store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Sorry to bring back an older thread. Where did you guys but the new calipers from? We're they new OEM or just reman from your local parts store? I had a hard time with this as I didn't want to buy overpriced OEM from a dealership and a non bbk but still aftermarket caliper seems hard to find. I ordered remanned one online that was the correct part # and everything and ended up being an upgraded dual piston set for the 2.5i, wrong part they weren't deep enough to fit over the rotor, so beware if you're shopping online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I had a hard time with this as I didn't want to buy overpriced OEM from a dealership and a non bbk but still aftermarket caliper seems hard to find. I ordered remanned one online that was the correct part # and everything and ended up being an upgraded dual piston set for the 2.5i, wrong part they weren't deep enough to fit over the rotor, so beware if you're shopping online. This is why I have a hard time buying parts on line. Yesterday July 4th I picked up a cap and rotor for my 1986 Ford F150. Got home and found the rotor was not the right one. Took it back and he looked up the 1987 F150 and that rotor matched the old I brought with me. I must have a late 86 build date. Took all of about 30 minutes to do that. NAPA's about 2.5 miles from the house. I like to talk face to face and if I have a problem have it taken care of in a matter of minutes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmoe Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 ^ Yup I learned the hard way on this one more than once. And you're extra screwed when you find out you have the wrong part because very likely you have the car all torn up!! Or worse...a friend who is helping you because you're a mechanical noob, has your car all torn up and no correct part to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 ^ Yup I learned the hard way on this one more than once. And you're extra screwed when you find out you have the wrong part because very likely you have the car all torn up!! Or worse...a friend who is helping you because you're a mechanical noob, has your car all torn up and no correct part to install. I've had similar issues with previous cars. It sounds like reman calipers will do the job. Ill make sure to go to the parts store in person. Not worth ordering the wrong part online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 Legacy GT Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I have this same exact problem. I've replaced everything except the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 How many miles on your car? I'm still fighting this issue too. I did brakes and just had bearings replaced. The bearings helped but the root vibration is still there. Have you tried axles? That's my next replacement I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 Legacy GT Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 How many miles on your car? I'm still fighting this issue too. I did brakes and just had bearings replaced. The bearings helped but the root vibration is still there. Have you tried axles? That's my next replacement I think. 98k on mine. I have new Subaru axles. I had the shake before the new axles. Would you recommend installing the bearings or do you feel it's not worth the hassle/money since it didn't really solve your shake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceCold81 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Same freaking problem... Feel like I've had it FOREVER :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I think the root shake helped cause my bearings to wear out. They were definitely not helping the problem. My hake got a lot better with new bearings but I can tell it's still there. My shop drove the car while in the air on the lift and felt the springs for vibrations. The bearings got rid of the shake the mechanic felt in the springs. Everything bushing wise checks out. I also had the tires balanced and rotated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bCaff Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I'm just hitting 92k miles. Have had the shake for almost a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivaska777 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 This may be a CV joint, wheel balancing or torn rubber Hob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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