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HELP!!! Broken lug nut..


SpecBGuy

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The nut removers work great if you have the space for them. But usually on a wheel such as the op's there most likely won't be enough room the get it in over the nut.

 

I'd drill it out replace the stud. Then make sure that next time around who ever installs your wheels doesn't over torque them.

 

It's only $20 to try and if it works there will be ZERO collateral damage and the job would be done in 10 minutes. I think it's definitely worth a shot, but whatever.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Oh def I'm not saying its not worth a shot. The jb weld on the other hand wouldn't waste the time. But yea I mean if he can find one small enough to fit in the lug while of the wheel and over the lug great. $20 hammer it on the lug then just wrench it off. If you have an air gun it's a lot easier but wrench will work.
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If all else fails, a hole saw that fits closely to the stud (minus the center bit) will do. Just cut down the sides of the lug nut till you can spin it free. Go slow and be careful. Eventually whats left of the lug will fall off and you can clean up the threads when the wheel is off. Ive done quite a few this way and it works great.. you just have to be careful.
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ok i tried to hammer in a 16mm socket but didnt work. also i used a chisel / hammer i was damaging my stud no matter what i did. im just going to take it to a shop let them chisel it out and replace my stud after.
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Wow!!! I have never seen someone do that before. HAHAHAHAHA!! What an ugly Honda too!

 

Anyways, you can buy a set of sockets made specifically for this type of situation. There are sets made to get off the locking lug nuts and also sets for regular 6/12 point bolts. I know the set I own from Matco has a very thin wall, but I am not sure about other brands. You will need to find the size socket that does not quite fit around whats left and hammer it on. Then, you can put your impact gun, 1/2" breaker bar on it. Of course, this method will only work if you can get ahold of a socket similar to this: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SFT71226P/2-PIECE-TWIST-FLIP-SOCKET-SET-WITH-3-INCH-IMPACT-EXTENSION/

It does not have to be the flip style, just giving an example of what you are looking for.

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What an ugly Honda too!

 

It's a VW :lol:

 

Anyways, you can buy a set of sockets made specifically for this type of situation. There are sets made to get off the locking lug nuts and also sets for regular 6/12 point bolts. I know the set I own from Matco has a very thin wall, but I am not sure about other brands. You will need to find the size socket that does not quite fit around whats left and hammer it on. Then, you can put your impact gun, 1/2" breaker bar on it. Of course, this method will only work if you can get ahold of a socket similar to this: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SFT71226P/2-PIECE-TWIST-FLIP-SOCKET-SET-WITH-3-INCH-IMPACT-EXTENSION/

It does not have to be the flip style, just giving an example of what you are looking for.

 

Those sockets were already suggested and there is :

A. not enough of the nug left for those to grab on

and

B. not enough room between wheel nut and wheel for those types of sockets to get on. Those are thicker than most sockets.

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You're right. Those socket's aren't too much thicker than a normal socket. However, they are just a little bit to thick to fit into a tight space like that. Especially judging off the picture that OP posted of the nut stuck on the stud.
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I own the sockets as well, and have owned many sets of them and sold many sets of them. You might be right and they might work. I'm saying that I really really doubt they will. IMO there is not enough of the nut there to even grab if they do fit down in there somehow.
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I dont think its a matter of enough to grab as it is to find the right size for the job. All of this could have been avoided if shops would take the extra few minutes to spin the wheels up with a t-bar and torque them with a wrench. Question for the OP though: Did the alignment take your wheels off? If all they did was an alignment, than they are probably not to blame. Alignment heads attach to the rim between the bead of the tire and the lip of the rim, so there is no need for tire removal.
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all the sockets that were posted here i saw them at auto part store. some are too big or mentioned before i dont have enough nut for grip especially after trying many things to get it off its been warn down.

 

no im not going to saw off my rims its just too much time lol..

 

i got my toe, camber and alignment done at the shop so yes they had to take off my wheels why because they do it the old fashion way with a long metal bar and leveler thing. (i regret so much going there)

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all the sockets that were posted here i saw them at auto part store. some are too big or mentioned before i dont have enough nut for grip especially after trying many things to get it off its been warn down.

 

no im not going to saw off my rims its just too much time lol..

 

i got my toe, camber and alignment done at the shop so yes they had to take off my wheels why because they do it the old fashion way with a long metal bar and leveler thing. (i regret so much going there)

 

Really? :lol: Here I thought the 20 yr. old+ machine I was using a couple years ago was prehistoric! I'd say your only option then is to drill it out like others have suggested. Cobalt is the way to go, but you will probably burn it up before you are finished.

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