SpecBGuy Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Just be prepared to have battle scars on your wheel. Most shops will not take any responsibility for damage to the wheel. Especially when they didn't break the nut. the shop told me they cant do it with out damaging my wheel but i already have some that i did trying to take out the f'n nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 i could get it out. master the torch. nothing a bit of paint wouldnt fix on the rim. or just drill out the stud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 i almost feel like drilling one out just to prove it can be done. but nah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Something similar like this happened to my buddies audi. I just drilled all the gunk out of the hole (Stud/lug nut). It took a hell of a long time but it got the job done. It did damage the inside area where the lug nut is at but not the face of the rim. All the tire shops we tried going to had the same story. They all just told me they cant do it. And replacing the stud is easy work and its less than 5 bucks for a stud. Just take the rotor/ brake caliper and bracket off. Then hammer the broken stud out. This is assuming its the same as an sti. I just replaced some last week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAP Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I'm not entirely sure that it is over-torquing that caused this. I just had a lugnut & bolt destroy themselves due to spalling. I have been having spalling issues with all of my lug nuts & bolts since the car was new. It makes me very reluctant to rotate my tires since there is always a risk of the nut seizing on the bolt when they are prone to spalling. It finally happened today. At least I was able to get the nut off, but I am going to get all the lug nuts & bolts replaced rather than just the one since all the others are threatening to do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 A little bit of anti-seize can go a long way. Or you could buy a die in that size and clean the threads every few tire rotations. If this is a continuous problem maybe some preventative measures could be taken to minimize the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Yes anti seize would help with this issue but then you also risk over tightening the lug nuts. Which then in turn could lead to warped rotors. I don't personally recommend anti seize on something critical like a set of lugs. But that's my personal opinion. I would just recommend buying a nice set of lugs. And cleaning the threads with a tap and dye every so often. ( not a bad idea, 08specb) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 If you rotate the tires often then there is no need for anti seize. I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 well after i get my nut out (yes i havent yet) im planning to get some black lug nuts from nissan(same fitment). im getting rid of these gorilla crap not that its there fault but seemed weak from the beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 damn brosef, it's been 3 weeks already. wtf you waiting for? the apocalypse? I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 damn brosef, it's been 3 weeks already. wtf you waiting for? the apocalypse? a flat on the expressway at 3 am in a rain storm:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodik Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 take a sharp steel punch, and hammer at the nut in counter clockwise rotation to try to spin it off, while other 4 are still in place all you need a half a turn and it will come off quite easily. While the longer you keep driving the more rust will build up on the stud threads making it very difficult to do later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sumbaru Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Drill press and disassemble the hub? Least amount of damage. That or like everyone else suggested drilling or chisel. I have drill press and fix or repair stuck parts like this sometimes. You can use a dremel from the backside where the stud sits flat on the hub and make deep cuts into the stud's mount flange then chisel it off. I would do a X hatch pattern then chisel it it free. Just my suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 damn brosef, it's been 3 weeks already. wtf you waiting for? the apocalypse? yes i know im lagging it. apocalypse would save me the hassle of taking it out so maybe i should wait for it. a flat on the expressway at 3 am in a rain storm:rolleyes: not rainy season yet here and wont be until december take a sharp steel punch, and hammer at the nut in counter clockwise rotation to try to spin it off, while other 4 are still in place all you need a half a turn and it will come off quite easily. While the longer you keep driving the more rust will build up on the stud threads making it very difficult to do later on. i dont think it will even turn with a steel punch and hammer if i couldnt do it with a socket. Drill press and disassemble the hub? Least amount of damage. That or like everyone else suggested drilling or chisel. I have drill press and fix or repair stuck parts like this sometimes. You can use a dremel from the backside where the stud sits flat on the hub and make deep cuts into the stud's mount flange then chisel it off. I would do a X hatch pattern then chisel it it free. Just my suggestion. imma take it to a shop so they can chisel and change the stud after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAP Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 A little bit of anti-seize can go a long way. Or you could buy a die in that size and clean the threads every few tire rotations. If this is a continuous problem maybe some preventative measures could be taken to minimize the issue. I had my lugs & nuts replaced. I looked at the removed lugs, and 7 of them had damaged threads. The dealer was unable to do it on the day I needed it done, claimed that the hubs needed to be removed, would take 4 hours and cost $500. Sears did it for $360 with only an hour of actual work. Unfortunately getting the parts took most of the day. They did not have to remove the hubs to do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Yes anti seize would help with this issue but then you also risk over tightening the lug nuts. Which then in turn could lead to warped rotors. I don't personally recommend anti seize on something critical like a set of lugs. But that's my personal opinion. I would just recommend buying a nice set of lugs. And cleaning the threads with a tap and dye every so often. ( not a bad idea, 08specb) As I have posted here many times. I put anti-seize compound and every lug nut or bolt I install. I torque every one to 80ftlbs. Been doing that since my 00 gt wagon had some damaged lug stud threads and I bought a die to clean them up. I wonder if it's possible to remove the axle nut, break hose, two caliper mount bolts and four hub mount bolts and remove the wheel, caliper and hub as a unit ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 any things possible. would have to get the center cap off the wheel to remove the axle and may be pretty tight getting the ball joint out. also tie rod would be tight. then you would have to get the whole thing in the press and press out the hub from the bearing and spindle. the caliper bracket samiches the rotor so unless you also undid the caliper bracket bolts and where able to move the whole bracket and caliper out enough with the wheel still on, the spindle would not be able to be pressed out. just chisels it and if that fails torch it!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Yes anti seize would help with this issue but then you also risk over tightening the lug nuts. Which then in turn could lead to warped rotors. I don't personally recommend anti seize on something critical like a set of lugs. But that's my personal opinion. I would just recommend buying a nice set of lugs. And cleaning the threads with a tap and dye every so often. ( not a bad idea, 08specb) Just curious...how do you risk over-torquing a wheel when using anti-seize? I do not normally recommend putting it on lug studs, but if someone is having a consistent problem I do. Its not like you are globbing the stuff on, just paint a little bit of it on the end of the stud and put the nuts on. We ONLY use torque wrenches at the shop when putting wheels on and have not had warped rotor issues with cars when we put anti-seize on the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 It may cause over torquing because it acts as a lubricant on the threads. It's the same as coating head bolts in oil to each the correct torque. As well as on Hondas we are supposed to coat the crank bolt in oil to achieve the correct torque. Is it going to over torque the lug by enough to warp rotors? Well as you stated that depends on who's doing the work. Some people understand anti seize should be used sparingly while others have the mind set. " well if a little bit works, more works better". Don't get me wrong I have used anti seize on lugs before but you have to be careful. I mean it's not rocket science to put on lugs using anti seize. But neither are oil changes and look at how many questions we get about those. Along with how many back yards mechanics screw up their engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Good point! I love when cars come into the shop fresh out of a dealership oil change. I smh just about every time. I do not know what kind of people they hire to work on cars, but they are NOT techs. It's a shame these people think they are getting good work done because its a dealership and they know everything! Sorry for the o/t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Oh trust me I know exactly what you mean. I am a tech at a Honda dealer but we have a quick lube lane full of kids. We are always replacing trans cases, oil pans, or rethreading oil pans they screw up. It's ridiculous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 these dealer tech stories is making me not want to go to a dealer for service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 help my wheel is still stuck on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 these dealer tech stories is making me not want to go to a dealer for service. It's not dealer techs is quick lube techs. But there are bad techs and good techs every where. I my self work with a lot of hack techs but then again I know a lot of side shops that have hack techs. Your best bet for work is to do it yourself. Or talk to the service manager and let them know your looking for a meticulous technician and build a relationship with that tech and always ask for that tech. If you lived in my area I'd recommend iag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Ask around your area as well. Word of mouth can be your best friend. Back on topic...is that lugnut off yet? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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