5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

[tLewis7]

I have developed a worsening problem (only while in manual mode) of the 5 EAT randomly not upshifting. Sometimes it takes 3-4 pulls on the paddle to finally get the tranny to upshift.

 

~Worse while car warming up but continues less frequently when car warmed.

~Does NOT occur when using the shifter handle to upshift.

~No issue with downshifts from either position.

~Randomly, after slow drive in second gear (like in a parking lot pulling up to a stop sign), after stopping to pull out onto street the tranny does not automatically downshift to first requiring me to pull downshift paddle.

~Have had the tranny reprogramed at dealership twice without fix.

~No codes being thrown.

~I have the smallest LongCool tranny cooler on but it is blocked off until I recover from back surgery enough to install the bypass thermostat.

 

Is this a malfunction of the upshift paddle switch (like dirty contacts), TCU or a VB problem? Or ????

I could not find anyone else with this problem after a search. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

 

Thanks

[RooTBeeR]

not a dead thread, good info in here

[seabass07]

its why i question the ability of the external cooler. as i said its roughly 10% of the surface of the radiator.

 

I've questioned that as well. But when I question it, I get responses that using only a stand alone tube and fin trans cooler with an aftermarket radiator is plenty to keep temps in check. So I still wonder and can't fine real data. I'm sure the radiator is more efficient to a certain point, but then asking a ridiculously thin stock radiator to cool the engine and trans is too much under some conditions.

[KoukiS14]

Sorry to revive this deadthread, but I haz a question!

 

When I'm driving along at about 35-40mph, I hear an intermittent, but steady rhythm'd vibration/low noise, similar to the sound a tire would make at such speed when making slight contact with a fenderliner or some such soft/flexible material. It may or may not be a groan/growl, though it could be, since we all tend to describe our onomatopoeias differently.

 

I'm concerned that it's my center diff, though I have not ruled out wheel bearings, etc. It's not speed-sensitive, other than about 30-50mph on smooth, particularly blacktop roads. Heck, it could even be my tires, I can't say for sure. It doesn't seem to be noticeable on uneven or composite roads.

 

I've heard that they make noise when they're on their way out, but, is there any other definitive way to confirm that I have a center diff problem?

 

Definitely not your center diff, which is only in use when turning. I'd vote for wheel bearing. I don't think I've heard of the diff gears making noise before failure. Only after. Then it's a noise that indicates that something's obviously wrong.

 

I have developed a worsening problem (only while in manual mode) of the 5 EAT randomly not upshifting. Sometimes it takes 3-4 pulls on the paddle to finally get the tranny to upshift.

 

~Worse while car warming up but continues less frequently when car warmed.

~Does NOT occur when using the shifter handle to upshift.

~No issue with downshifts from either position.

~Randomly, after slow drive in second gear (like in a parking lot pulling up to a stop sign), after stopping to pull out onto street the tranny does not automatically downshift to first requiring me to pull downshift paddle.

~Have had the tranny reprogramed at dealership twice without fix.

~No codes being thrown.

~I have the smallest LongCool tranny cooler on but it is blocked off until I recover from back surgery enough to install the bypass thermostat.

 

Is this a malfunction of the upshift paddle switch (like dirty contacts), TCU or a VB problem? Or ????

I could not find anyone else with this problem after a search. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

 

Thanks

 

Only doesn't upshift manually properly from the wheel paddles, or doesn't upshift properly in normal drive or sport mode as well? If it's just manually from the paddles, that does sound like faulty electrics there.

 

The lack of downshift to second is manual or auto mode? What on earth do you mean by the cooler being blocked off? Removed from the cooling loop? If you block that loop, that's not a good thing.

 

Not throwing a code is good. Seems like the TCU keeps pretty good tabs on the trans, so if it was a VB issue or the actual vs. selected gear was different, it would let you know.

[tLewis7]

Only doesn't upshift manually properly from the wheel paddles, or doesn't upshift properly in normal drive or sport mode as well? If it's just manually from the paddles, that does sound like faulty electrics there.

 

~Only in manual mode. Works fine in automatic mode

 

The lack of downshift to second is manual or auto mode? What on earth do you mean by the cooler being blocked off? Removed from the cooling loop? If you block that loop, that's not a good thing.

 

~Downshift issue only in manual mode; works fine in auto mode

~The air is blocked from the cooler fins with a piece of cardboard only. It is in series with the OEM radiator cooler.

 

Not throwing a code is good. Seems like the TCU keeps pretty good tabs on the trans, so if it was a VB issue or the actual vs. selected gear was different, it would let you know.

 

Thanks for the reply!

I think the contact points on the upshift paddle are dirty and will try to clean. If switch is faulty, doubt SOA will doing anything about it with 63K miles on the odo. Will just use auto mode or shift with the console lever and get it fixed after I get the F1 VB mod when available.

Edited February 20, 2014 by t^Lewis7

[snow05gtRI]

if the stick works fine to shift, and the paddles don't, it's probably the paddles with the issue, not the tranny.

 

also, try not to run manual mode until the car is warmed up.

[frank_ster]

the paddles are wired in the same wire to the stick for the up and down switches.

 

it may just be your clock spring ( the wire inside the swivel for steering column)

[tLewis7]

the paddles are wired in the same wire to the stick for the up and down switches.

 

it may just be your clock spring ( the wire inside the swivel for steering column)

 

Can this be fixed or does the switch need replacing?

Thanks!

[frank_ster]

well its either the clock spring or the switch. and anything can be changed

[snow05gtRI]

does the 5MT rear diff mate up to the 5EAT configuration?

[KoukiS14]

does the 5MT rear diff mate up to the 5EAT configuration?

 

The R&P are different ratios between the manuals and the automatics.

[frank_ster]

does the 5MT rear diff mate up to the 5EAT configuration?

 

5 eat is 3.27 for 05 -07 lgt 3.54 for 05-07 outback xt

5 eat 08+ is 3.08 lgt and 3.27 for 08+ outback xt

5 mt is 4.11 for lgt and 4.44 for outback xt

 

for the 3.27 3.54 and 3.08 diff they are va2 type and as far as i can tell completely different from the mt.

[snow05gtRI]

thought I remembered reading all that. thanks.

[RooTBeeR]

3.08....highway gears me likey

[archer1.8]

Will the Throttlehappy tune work with Cobb maps yet

[KoukiS14]

5 eat is 3.27 for 05 -07 lgt 3.54 for 05-07 outback xt

5 eat 08+ is 3.08 lgt and 3.27 for 08+ outback xt

5 mt is 4.11 for lgt and 4.44 for outback xt

 

for the 3.27 3.54 and 3.08 diff they are va2 type and as far as i can tell completely different from the mt.

 

Thanks, Frank. Didn't have time to look that up. Eagerly awaiting a hitch for my wagon

 

BTW, I shattered my center diff gears boost launching with 700 lbs. of carpet in the back the other morning. Swapped it with spares that day. Bushings seemed fine, but I haven't pressed them out yet. Running a stock setup for the moment

 

Oh, and the center diff clutches were BURNT!!! All four black, with moderate cracking on the paper friction surfaces. I was really surprised to see that with only 15,000 miles on them.The damn frictions in the diff are the tiniest things from the old 4EAT. Of course, that's daily multiple low boost launches to scoot ahead of traffic, cornering under power as well as braking. I'm hard on my cars. ;-) If they last at all they're worthy. The 5EAT is fairly worthy. Cryo and a surface treatment on the next set of sun/planetaries going into mine.

 

3.08....highway gears me likey

 

Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.

[frank_ster]

Thanks, Frank. Didn't have time to look that up. Eagerly awaiting a hitch for my wagon

 

BTW, I shattered my center diff gears boost launching with 700 lbs. of carpet in the back the other morning. Swapped it with spares that day. Bushings seemed fine, but I haven't pressed them out yet. Running a stock setup for the moment

 

Oh, and the center diff clutches were BURNT!!! All four black, with moderate cracking on the paper friction surfaces. I was really surprised to see that with only 15,000 miles on them.The damn frictions in the diff are the tiniest things from the old 4EAT. Of course, that's daily multiple low boost launches to scoot ahead of traffic, cornering under power as well as braking. I'm hard on my cars. ;-) If they last at all they're worthy. The 5EAT is fairly worthy. Cryo and a surface treatment on the next set of sun/planetaries going into mine.

 

 

 

Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.

 

 

the clutches dont see much load. nor surface speed.

i bet if the solenoid was fully engaged with 12v it would't be the same story.

[frank_ster]

anyone else interested in rwd/4wd conversion?

 

the known side affect is the rear diff will get some more abuse

[RooTBeeR]

Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.

 

 

every little bit helps.

If I could get to 2500rpm @80 instead of 3000+ that'd be nice. With a 5 speed.

Yeah aim happy with all other gears, but if 5th was taller would be good.

A 6th(double OD) would be best though. Keep current 1-5 then 6th run like 2000-2250 @80....I need better highway mpgs out of this pig haha

 

 

 

 

anyone else interested in rwd/4wd conversion?

 

the known side affect is the rear diff will get some more abuse

 

Couldn't I just install a 3-position switch to control the center diff?

 

1) "Off" where the center diff never engages

 

2) "Auto" where it will function like stock

 

3) "On" where the center diff stays fully locked

 

Just curious

 

 

Also

Did any 5eats have LSD diffs?

Edited February 22, 2014 by RooTBeeR

[kzr750r1]

I was wondering the same about a LSD swap and if it would mate up with gear ratios we have in the XT. As I've read I think Strizzy placed a STI front LSD but would figure both front and rear would need to swap to keep the ratios the same. I would also like the RPM down at 80. 3100 is pretty standard fare on the freeway now days so long as the CHP isn't in view.

[frank_ster]

all the 05 5 eats had lsd rear diffs i think 06 also.

 

and all outbacks have lsd rear diffs

 

and yes you can install a switch for the center diff as you said. might need a resistor to prevent the tcu from setting a code.

[RooTBeeR]

all the 05 5 eats had lsd rear diffs i think 06 also.

 

and all outbacks have lsd rear diffs

 

and yes you can install a switch for the center diff as you said. might need a resistor to prevent the tcu from setting a code.

 

You welded the rear diff and modified the center diff to do the 4x4/RWD?

[frank_ster]

^ i have another stock rear diff again ..

 

but the center diff is removed.

 

100% goes to the rear with the clutches sending power to the front on demand like the gtr and the reverse of a 4 eat.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1lw7EHm7Ig]Buckaru rwd / 4wd - YouTube[/ame]

[RooTBeeR]

Ooohh...I was just trying to comprehend the mechanics of it.

didn't know you removed the center diff. That's how the RWD works. Got ya. And then you control the clutches to the front manually

[frank_ster]

or automatically