eric_t Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Oh i'll do the fluid changes..don't mind that. I just don't want to mess with doing a flush - i'm too impatient. hah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 18, 2014 Moderators Share Posted January 18, 2014 At 30k miles, no need for a "flush" of any kind. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 18, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 18, 2014 You will absolutely NEED that trans cooler on your trip! You'll likely overheat the transmission otherwise. IMO, this is mandatory. As for after the trip, you do not need it. Or you can just install it along with a thermostat and leave it there. With a thermostat, you shouldn't have to worry about low operating temps. Do the DIY trans flush. Change both diff fluids. Otherwise, you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 My current experience shows me a external trans cooler isn't even nessasasry unless your engine is overheating. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 18, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 18, 2014 I agree with that, however my experience towing a very heavy trailer across country says that engine overheating is likely. The trans will contribute to the engine overheating. Unless the entire trip will be on flat ground. Mountains and very hilly areas are why I say its mandatory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 once the tcc is engaged the trans makes no heat. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 19, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 19, 2014 But give a certain amount of throttle and it will disengage and try to re-engage at a higher rpm. What I found was that it would stay disengaged until around 4500 rpm under those conditions. It was the torque converter that caused my temps to climb. In this case, its an h6, so I'm sure it has a different torque converter, but I would still strongly recommend the cooler for the trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric_t Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Looks like all the plate/fin coolers are the same except for core size.. Any suggestions on a brand/size? Also, after doing some reading sounds like the most affective way is to run the cooler after the radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thus the need for an external thermostat to go with your external cooler. Best of both worlds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric_t Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I ended up pulling the trigger on some Derale stuff.. cooler and thermostat. Next question: Should I just bypass the radiator for cooling? Seems like a lot of added length to the cooling system if I keep it in the loop.. I'm assuming there's some type of trans oil pump, won't the added length of hose put more stress on that? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I ended up pulling the trigger on some Derale stuff.. cooler and thermostat. Next question: Should I just bypass the radiator for cooling? Seems like a lot of added length to the cooling system if I keep it in the loop.. I'm assuming there's some type of trans oil pump, won't the added length of hose put more stress on that? Thoughts? thats not going to harm the pump.. the pump is able to push in excess of 400 psi if it wanted to. the circuit has a screw on oil filter behind the battery so that is the biggest restriction in that loop. also important not to bypass the filter with the thermostat. as for placement you can put it before the rad , in place of the rad , or after the rad . some theory's is the before the rad it will shed excess heat before entering the engine rad and then stabalized up or down by the engine rad. after te rad the engne rad will do pretty much all the work but then this will just cool the oil down a few more degrees. in place of the rad if you care about the engine and don't want the engine to overheat. the trans coolers are about 10% of the cooling abilities of the engine rad. so if the trans gets super hot it wont heat up your engine. the tcm has logic to control against over heating by locking the tcc. so if the tranny even gets close to being hot you will know as the car will feel like a manual tranny. untill it cools down to its desired temp. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 I have mine bypassed and am running a MT oversized aluminum radiatior, external tranny cooler with external thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 20, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 20, 2014 Next failsafe after the tcu locks the tcc is a fuel cut. That's quite a shocker while you're trying to climb a mountain pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 ^ well on the 05-07 there is no tcc in 1st and 2nd. so if your below 30 mph it cant. in that case go in the lowest gear possible and let it rev high. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 20, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 20, 2014 Yup. The problem I ran into was starting up a mountain pass too slow. If I started the climb below 50mph, I was screwed and would have to pull over several times along the way. It was usually because of a truck or a traffic light at the bottom. 1st or 2nd would eventually overheat due to no TCC functioning. The trans would not let me get past the stall speed in third. So my trans turned into a coolant heater. I'd hit the fuel cut when the coolant temp was about 2/3's up the gauge, so I know it wasn't coolant temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Transmission cooler to the rescue. I've never experienced this but have had a hot run up and over the grape vine (I5) last year with 4 people in the car. You must have some grade with no passing options to get that far. Edited January 21, 2014 by kzr750r1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Yup. The problem I ran into was starting up a mountain pass too slow. If I started the climb below 50mph, I was screwed and would have to pull over several times along the way. It was usually because of a truck or a traffic light at the bottom. 1st or 2nd would eventually overheat due to no TCC functioning. The trans would not let me get past the stall speed in third. So my trans turned into a coolant heater. I'd hit the fuel cut when the coolant temp was about 2/3's up the gauge, so I know it wasn't coolant temp. and with the external cooler same situation you have better results? Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 21, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 21, 2014 This was with the external cooler after the radiator. I imagine it would have been much worse without the external cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Yikes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 21, 2014 Mega Users Share Posted January 21, 2014 If I were to do it over again, I'd put the cooler before the radiator so fluid doesn't go directly from the TC to the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 So are you running the thermostat in line? I get what your saying. Pull the heat with the cooler before heading into the radiator to keep it from heat soaking as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 its why i question the ability of the external cooler. as i said its roughly 10% of the surface of the radiator. if you put it in front of the radiator you making that portion covered by the cooler recieve hot air to begin with, so that portion is less effective. if your going up a steep hill with out tcc i dont think there is anyway of cooling the tranny enough. other than that there is no real need for a cooler unless you have swapped out for a mt rad. i have monitored the trans temp with my setup. and it stays steady all the time. the tc temp can raise up substantially when below the stall rpm with load. but not an over all issue. if you go up a steep hill like that again shift down to what you need so you can keep the rpms up over 5000. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Just get a 6" fan for $40 and put that on the external cooler too. Either with an auto thermo-switch activator, or just a manual switch... or some sort of both. 2 position (Auto-on[normal everyday driving] and manual-on[climbing a trailer pulling a hill]) "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 and where do you put that assembly? and still its only a 10% help witch is a piss in the ocean and another 80 feet up a hill. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Sorry to revive this deadthread, but I haz a question! When I'm driving along at about 35-40mph, I hear an intermittent, but steady rhythm'd vibration/low noise, similar to the sound a tire would make at such speed when making slight contact with a fenderliner or some such soft/flexible material. It may or may not be a groan/growl, though it could be, since we all tend to describe our onomatopoeias differently. I'm concerned that it's my center diff, though I have not ruled out wheel bearings, etc. It's not speed-sensitive, other than about 30-50mph on smooth, particularly blacktop roads. Heck, it could even be my tires, I can't say for sure. It doesn't seem to be noticeable on uneven or composite roads. I've heard that they make noise when they're on their way out, but, is there any other definitive way to confirm that I have a center diff problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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