livinon2wheels Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 I wouldn't know how. I need you to do something cool and inexpensive to your Legacy today so that I have some inspiration over here, ok? I love bumping this thread....lol...but as most of you have probably learned nothing on the old first gen cars is cheap unless you got a deal at a boneyard. My old 91 WRXish is gonna break me I think. Just put new LED headlights in it and I truly love them. It is the drive at night car, even over my 08 legacy. Sure didnt used to be that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 Guys's it's done! Boost is so much fun! I keep up with my buddy in a Speed6 at 18psi he's a lot heavier but his 6 speed really helps him. Pushing about 10 psi with MBC. http://turbotimer.org/2016/01/24/so-you-want-to-turbo-an-ej22e/ Here's a write up of the turbo build. Originally Posted by Fallen4Futral View Post I have TD04, 06 intercooler, uppipe, down pipe, a cheap BOV, and full 3" exhasut off a STI. Currently being shipped to me is a stage 2 clutch. Once I pop the clutch in I'll be running a turbo! What do u recommend for a stage two clutch and where to buy it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 I am in the process of converting my 93 Subaru Legacy from a cable clutch to hydraulic. After plenty of research I landed on a 04-07 STI master cylinder, it bolts right up, however the rod that connects to the pedal is too short. I am able to connect it when the pedal is all the way on the floor, but then it won't come back up because the rod seems to be fully extended already. This is my first experience with any hydraulic clutch components, am I missing something simple? In this photo the clutch pedal is fully disengaged: http://i.imgur.com/ygr7lsph.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Have you bled the system yet? The clutch pedal won't come back up unless you have the transmission installed and have bled the clutch line. Bleeding the slave cylinder is a bitch unless you get a brake speed bleeder screw. Then it's a piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I drove my wagon today, love the burbly exhaust and had the joy of staying ahead of a v8 Vantage on the backroad going to my house...that was awesome!!!! Showed him the fast way through the corners, he he. Gotta love the Aston Martins though, gorgeous freaking car. When I got home I packed the car for the autocross this weekend...I am ready freddy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 Cool! I'm doing my first autocross next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 (edited) Latest update on project WRXish Ran first autocross in about 30 years last weekend, with both cars, 91 legacy wagon was within 2 seconds of my time in the 09 wrx. So confused about that on so many levels lol. messed up endlinks on rear sway bar on wagon playing at danville airport on saturday, monday I was under the car fixing the endlinks so they didnt rattle...All is well again but I need to come up with a better endlink for this car. Running a whiteline bar that really wants the 90 degree attachment so commonly used now on cars like the cobalt and hhr among others. But to fit the axle attachment point, it takes a straight threaded rod like the old endlinks like used on american cars in the 70s, if anyone knows where I can find a suitable replacement please advise. On the other subject, here is a car that is worth less than 25% of the wrx and runs darn near as fast on less tire, less motor, and less sophistication...and the wrx has been breathed on heavily to make it fast...I am at a total loss to understand how such a thing is even possible Edited June 22, 2016 by livinon2wheels typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 So I have renewed interest in making WRXish even quicker than it is...awaiting a long backordered front bar from whiteline, need to cut rear springs about 1 coil to lower and slightly stiffen the rear suspension and reduce body roll in the rear. I hope that once the new front bar that has not arrived yet is installed and the bar rates front and rear are adjusted and the rear springs are trimmed, I will have the handling characteristics I seek dialed in and can concentrate on building a good stout engine for this thing. I have two people working on getting the engine project started now and need to touch base with them and see what is going on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Cleaned it up a bit and took a real picture: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I cut the door skin off the original door from my Legacy. Going to hang it on the wall. http://i.imgur.com/Jqqz436h.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Put the crossmember in today! http://i.imgur.com/No372hoh.jpg Got it all bolted in today. The sway bar and tie rods don't bolt right up to the Legacy hubs. The sway bar that came with the crossmember has a different type of bolt on the end, it seems to be pressed in with a nut on one end; while the original one had a bolt that went directly through it. Does the tie rod need to be pressed in, or should it freely slide in? I measured both of them and they are almost exactly the same size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 Well got the 2.5 outback motor delivered to the builder today, still trying to close a deal on a set of first 2.2 heads so I can keep the ease of maintenance the 2.2 heads allow. Looks like the camshafts have been picked going with a crower 228 degree hot street cam. Between that and the headwork that will be done if I ever find a set of 1st gen heads I should be making some serious NA grunt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Questions. I've done some searching and can't find a real answer. I picked up some coils today from a friend for essentially nothing, but they are for 2000+ Legacy. From what I've read the fronts will fit if I buy new top hats, but it says the rears won't fit. Can anyone tell me if I can use the rears if I buy new top hats, or is it just an all around no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 (edited) I feel like Im the only one who posts in here, but here goes! I just put a GC crossmember and rack into my first gen, it bolts up perfectly but the steering joint/knuckle isn't the same. The GC one is longer than the OEM legacy one by a good bit. It doesn't look like it can be taken apart, do anyone have any experience with this issue or know what a fix may be? GC on Left, BF on Right http://i.imgur.com/buEtSuNh.jpg C - Crossmember Side R - Rack Side edit: Found this while researching. I would always consider something like this to be last resort, but is that just the way to make this work? http://i.imgur.com/KEgdFapl.png Edited July 10, 2016 by Sublimejoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 seems one of them would bolt right up and fit, Joe. without having to go the cut and reweld route. I would avoid the welding bit at all cost. The steering is just too important a piece to take any chances with. Thats just my take on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Unfortunately they don't. Only one end on each of them fits. The legacy one will only fit on the column side, and the wrx one will only fit on the rack side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 ok dumb question Joe, can you disassemble the two and use the pieces to make one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 I don't believe so. It looks like the pins aren't removable. A friend of mine has a machine shop and he is going to combine the two for me. Problem solved! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 I feel like Im the only one who posts in here, but here goes! I just put a GC crossmember and rack into my first gen, it bolts up perfectly but the steering joint/knuckle isn't the same. The GC one is longer than the OEM legacy one by a good bit. It doesn't look like it can be taken apart, do anyone have any experience with this issue or know what a fix may be? GC on Left, BF on Right http://i.imgur.com/buEtSuNh.jpg C - Crossmember Side R - Rack Side edit: Found this while researching. I would always consider something like this to be last resort, but is that just the way to make this work? http://i.imgur.com/KEgdFapl.png Great success in fabricating. Now to clean it up and install! http://i.imgur.com/VRXk4mbh.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Joe, you are da man!!! Nice looking welding there I gotta say. Everything fits now I hope? Did you also solve the steering knuckle issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livinon2wheels Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Ok now its my turn. Has anyone had problems with the first gen legacy hood latches not holding and popping loose going down the road? This has been an ongoing occasional problem with mine, even replaced the latch mechanism several years ago. That solved the problem for a while but that is one of those parts that doesnt seem to be available anymore, so replacement looks like not an option. I worked on it today trying to get it to latch and hold and don't know yet if I actually solved the problem or not. But that is what I worked on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Joe, you are da man!!! Nice looking welding there I gotta say. Everything fits now I hope? Did you also solve the steering knuckle issue? Yeah it fits nice! I need to adjust it a little but I slid it on last night. http://i.imgur.com/nwD4E28h.jpg The tie rod thing? Nah, the WRX tie rod end (I think thats what its called right?) doesn't fit, I am going to order some Legacy ones, hopefully the rod itself is the same diameter as the Legacy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Got tired of looking at this axe gash in my oem seats so spent five minutes with a needle and some hemp twine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Just spent three days in 103+ degree heat keeping my wife's SS alive. Still more work to do. So about two years ago I replaced the alternator since it started to smoke and almost caught fire while I had the alternator tested. There was a slight squeaking noise after I replaced it and I figured it was squeaky alternator bearings since the belt was snug and tightnening/loosening it didn't change the noise. Then the AC compressor went out. New AC compressors for first gens are $770. I was super lucky and found a new in box compressor for $150 that sat in some warehouse since 1993. I installed it, and converted it for the RF134a, and had the dealer charge it up. AC worked amazing but the squeaking noise got louder. I began to suspect the AC bearings sat for a long time and so they were noisy. If I turned the AC off, the noise went away. So I figured the compressor was the source. I was bummed and figured my AC would go out soon. A couple months ago my wife called and said her power steering and AC quit working. I figured the AC compressor finally seized. She brought the car home and when I turned the AC on a horrible noise ensued and the compressor would stop spinning. So I was pretty sure the compressor seized up. If the AC was off the power steering worked. So I told her not to use the AC. I started to pull everything off to attempt to replace the magnetic clutch on the AC compressor. I loosened the AC belt and the AC started to work again!!! It was accompanied by a horrible screeching noise though. I pulled the AC and power steering belt off and I realized the crank pulley was SEPARATED IN TWO!!!! The inner assembly was spinning inside the outer assembly! That was what was making the horrible noise and not allowing the AC and power steering to work at the same time!!! The driver's side cam seal has been leaking since I pulled the engine to do the headgaskets. It's been stinky for years and smokes when you get into boost. Since I had the crank pulley off I removed the timing belt and replaced the seal. There was a slight score on the camshaft that must have been causing the leak. I sanded it smooth and replaced the seal and put the timing back together. I then installed my replacement crank pulley. Everything worked great!!! AC worked, oil leak was gone. Then I noticed my oil pan is cracked. So I drained the oil and JB welded the crack. It's still weeping so I have to replace the oil pan now. But I have a spare so at least I have the part but it is a bitch to replace so I'm saving that job for next month. Now it was time to drain the ATF since I never have and the POWER light is flashing. The fluid was brown and nasty. And I am getting torque bind. So I did a drain and fill and decided to do another drain and fill. I pulled the trans plug after the first drain and fill and no fluid came out. I realized that I put ATF int the front diff. Drained the front diff and added new gear oil. Then I filled up the trans with ATF in the right spot. Did another drain and fill and the fluid is now red. While under there I realized my wife's tires are shot. Even though I told her to rotate them and stuff, she didn't so now they tires are ruined and probably not helping the torque bind. Pulled the trans code and the Duty C solenoid valve is bad so I am ordering that and replacing the clutch pack in the rear housing next week or so. ****, that's going to suck. Then my wife told me her subs aren't working. Fixed some wires and her subs work but now two of her speakers are blown. But good news is I received almost everything I need to install a new TD04 and XT tmic. I have to make a block off plate for the BPV and fab up the y-pipe and stuff but then I'm going to turn up the boost to 13 psi. Also I found a perfect 3" to 2.5" reducer for my coffee can mod!!! I'll post a writeup of the TD04/XT tmic install and the coffee can mod when I'm finished so we have one on this forum. Whew, what a novel. This SS can be a pain in the ass sometimes but my wife loves it and I think it is worth keeping around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young_Wagon Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 New to this forum but today i replaced a dead battery and drained and refilled my power steering fluid in my semi broken 91 Liberty Wagon, Working towards Registration and being on the road in the next coming months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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