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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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This is all I can find on the MAF in my manual. It tells you 12v and ground. I'm not sure where to find a wrx maf diagram but someone on nasioc.org could help or it may possibly be available by searching nasioc.org http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120813_222718.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120813_223122.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120813_223030.jpg
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  • 2 weeks later...
I washed and waxed it. It looks pretty good. Hopefully I will start prepping the body for a new coat of paint (base/clear). It won't be as much work as painting my second gen (pulled frame, replaced hood, rear hatch, massive dents, rust holes, etc.) I should be able to get access to the body shop in a few weeks. I'm going to hunt for some new fenders in the meantime at the junkyards. I'm going to paint it the stock color. It's called Black Pearl. If you look close you can see red metal flakes in it. :)
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A video I uploaded on you tube of me doing a 0-95 mph run uphill.

 

Nice, is that NA? Pretty damn quick for one if it is. I will have to make a video like that. On another note, I changed oil brands from mobil1 synthetic to castrol titanium synthetic and my noisy lifter noise has completely gone away. It was only tapping when it was cold. I tried 3 different weights of mobil 1 synthetics over the last 3 years and the noise was always there. The first startup with the castrol and the tapping went away after 2 minutes and has yet to come back at all. I also read a review of synthetics where castrol had more hp on a dyno. Could of been clever marketing or a biased review but it definitely got rid of the annoying valve tap on my phase 1 ej20g.

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I haven't had to do anything mechanically this whole week, thats a first time in a long time! AC even works! besides a little tuning here and there, but LAMBDA is my friend(autotune), I'm gonna start the bodywork now. This car was in a hailstorm so I have my work cut out for me, again. I'm going with the stock lt blue color only I'm going to have a flat clearcoat put on last. I think the matte lite blue will look good and I haven't seen it done yet.
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i havent posted in a while, but yesterday i ran a can of seafoam professionally thru the fuel rail (with the fuel pump unplugged), cleaned the throttle body and threw in a set of fresh NGK plugs... thought it ran good before... runs much smoother now... funny thing is i cleaned the TB and put in new plugs a year ago when i put the used motor in... oh well,, their cheap and easy to do.

plus!!..... i finally have a clean drivers front car door coming... dent free!!

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I think I bounced off rev limiter, I probably need to set it higher. Anyways here's a little video I made granny shifting at 11 psi(low boost) elevation of 5780ft http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/VID_20120828_102359.mp4 not sure if this link works, YouTube [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tO9dzrk2Gc&feature=youtube_gdata_player]11psi - YouTube[/ame] Edited by USLiberty
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I paid 650$ for mine, drove to compton, ca to pick it up.... no sales tax since I was from out of state. The wharehouse had every jdm motor/trans you could think of. Stacked to the ceiling SR20s red tops/blue tops, 4g63's, twin tirbo ej20's, mazda cosmo triple rotors, skyline r34 front clip right there for 5000$, civic type r front clip. It was better than the first time I went to Kids'r'us. I got to choose from 4 ej20s 2-twin turbos 2-20gs, all had automatic torque converters still attached and all lines had been cut. I knew I wanted the closed deck and the twin turbos were 1150$ Both 20gs had good compression but one was like new. They loaded it in my van and me and my buddy examined and admired the deal I got. Then we realized we were two whiteboys in Compton at dusk. Every corner was either a liquor store or a porn shop. It was when the crackheads began circling us we gtfoutta there. Nipponmotors.com I think is where I got it. I had to use a standalone ecu but I think its possible to mate harnesses but standalomes have come down in price, especially if you don't need emmissions. Outfrontmotorsports.com is where I got my ecm. Edited by USLiberty
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finally replaced the dented drivers door on my 93......

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1134/img0172bo.jpg

By mnstrmech2 at 2012-09-02

 

found one the same color... very close match...

i also removed the carpeting and pressure washed it with laundry soap.... took three heavy washes to get it clean.....

now im gonna tear apart the entire cargo area... side panels and all... to clean that out....

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  • 2 weeks later...
I bought a 3M headlight polishing kit and cleared up the lights on the SS. It looks way better. My brand new turbo inlet elbow is a POS though. The PCV inlet is almost completely cracked off. I don't understand why it would go bad so quickly. It was a brand new turbo inlet elbow from Subaru, in the original plastic packaging. Sucks!!! I guess I will just fabricate an elbow/coffecan a bit sooner than I anticipated. The car is definitely acting like there is a boost leak. :(
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think i've fixed the issues with photobucket. will trawl back through the thread and then edit my posts to include

 

@monkeyposeur: eh-oh, Turbo leak is certainly not fun.

 

mnstrmech: that door is just slightly lighter than the rest of the car isn't it.

Edited by AfterBurner_1
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I've been needing to polish my headlights, they have never been done before. I also found a slight oil leak on the turbo oil drain hose. Its just annoying to smell oil burning but not dripping. I ordered a gasket and stainless hose kit for the td05. I figure while its out ill port the turbo a bit to match my exhaust manifold porting I did.

Monkey, have you tried that 2part plastic welder epoxy? Loctite makes some and I've fabricated /fixed lots of plastic parts with it. I just use masking tape to form a mold and glue it up. After its dried ill sand/grind it till it looks good. Its worked great for me.

I have the same lt blue paint, id say it needs a good rubbing out and waxing and it wouldn't look different even in the pics.

Edited by USLiberty
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believe me.... its been buffed numerous times... im very good with buffing and detailing.....

 

I meant using a good rubbing compound first. Reason is I had a 69 elcamino ss replica and the red paint would oxidize so fast that only when i upgraded to a high quality rubbing compound (3M) did the red really shine through. Then again 60$ is a lot for a tube of rubbing compound. I used a da to apply it and it made a huge difference when compared to the other brands I used.(meguirs, mothers, turtle wax really didn't compare). Just my two cents.

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USliberty - I'll try the locktite method next week when I have a day off. The only concern I have is some of the material coming loose and getting sucked into the turbo.

 

Subikid and I are working on a turbo inlet elbow/coffee can unit that can be plug and play with an SS, and potentially a 20G. He has a bit of mechanical engineering expertise so he is going to fabricate one in his shop. To help I removed my air intake and inlet elbow and took measurements for his prototype. It would be a great upgrade for first gen turbo owners as the inlet elbows are no longer produced by Subaru so they are nearly impossible to find as replacements.

 

It should look pretty slick too. Here is a pic of a local guys engine bay. He modded up his own version out of parts from Autozone. Subikid's should be similar. After he makes it and I test it out everyone should buy one from him! :)

 

And here is a pic of the split in my BRAND NEW oem turbo inlet elbow. :mad: It is definitely causing my boost leak. At least I know what the problem is. The oem PCV connector has too sharp of an angle so it stresses the boot nipple. Nonetheless it should not be failing after only a matter of months when the original held up since 1993. Next up after fixing the elbow problem is finding an 06-07 wrx tmic and installing it.

-1.thumb.jpg.d792d2295d5af8893c74ecb962c03377.jpg

DSCF6819.thumb.jpg.237a877afbfa6d0e53e7c950bdbbe75b.jpg

DSCF6820.thumb.jpg.bcad090bdf924b1109d5d1b370472785.jpg

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I found a Forester XT tmic w/mounting brackets (looks like it will fit without any firewall bashing, lol), stock y-pipe (ditching it for silicone), and crushed STi BPV for the SS. I'm now waiting on a TD04 that my bud promised me. That and the coffee can mod and I should be good to go for a while until I'm ready for a robtuned ej20g ecu.

 

Anyone here run a tmic with the stock VF11?

IMG_1425.thumb.jpg.aeab04d880e9f26024debefe8f295e43.jpg

IMG_1426.thumb.jpg.8e0827831f6f172393c48e0544ecd3f2.jpg

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It was a good weekend. I got the turbo hood color changed and mounted, the paint job defenitely needs to be revisited but i still like the look better. Replaced my passenger door panel with a junkyard find in better shape. Found a stripped useless wheel stud and snapped another one that the lug nut was rusted onto. Replaced both of those on the pass side and made all the lug nuts match. I ordered ten wheels studs and will replace them all when i go to change the cv axles. I also used a meguiars headlight restore kit, made the headlights look brand new.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-09-23_11-18-03_531_zps3b1b5b34.jpg

With the headlights cleaned up

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-09-23_12-10-55_853_zps066d78b9.jpg

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