mattg Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I like to make stuff too. Hadn't heard anyone say they were thinking of making their own end links though. I know they aren't terribly complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Looking at some application charts very quickly, it looks like you guys could cross-shop some years of Honda S2000 end links, as they a) may be the same rear fitment???, and b) there might be some guy out there who made something like what Kartboy did, except cheaper, for the S2000 (one of the best suspension performance platforms of all time). I'm perfectly happy with the grenade-proof Moog offering (I just don't see how that would flex more than a Kartboy, not to mention maintaining exposed joints), but to each his own preference. Edit: HONDA S2000 (2000 - 2009) NISSAN ALTIMA (1993 - 2001) SUBARU BAJA (2003 - 2006) SUBARU LEGACY (2000 - 2009) SUBARU OUTBACK (2000 - 2009) Please refer to catalog for application details. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle humjaba Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 ^ you were going to make your own end links? I'm a mechanical engineer... The aftermarket ones are a chunk of aluminum with some holes in it, some grade 8 fasteners and some off the shelf bushings. No magic there. You could even bolt a couple of these together if you felt so inclined: http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=3173 http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=146 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 ^ I wouldn't run that type of end link again. Been through 2 sets of Perrin rears and they both clunked before a year. If/when I need a set I'm going with the Moog's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaspGT Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Youre right... you get what you pay for, so maybe we should all blow money on freakin brand name endlinks so we can bathe in the residual coolness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Side Note, I have a set of open end wrenches that are very slim. Proxxon 23820 12 Piece Slim-Line Combination Wrench Set with 15 Degree Offset Heads with Holder. Jjr was saying in another thread that a shorty 15mm combination wrench would be a huge assistance in doing at least the rear e/l's. I guess you would add this set to the list in addition? I did search around on Amazon some. There are a lot of thin double end open wrench sets but my guess is that it's the box end that we want from the Proxxon set and that the stamped ones are far inferior to the drop forged ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 It's possible I was doing something wrong ( wrench position) for the upper bolt. The Moogs are a great low price endlink no clunking at all so far. If it was a car for tracking only I'd spend the big dollars otherwise these aren't going anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 Jjr was saying in another thread that a shorty 15mm combination wrench would be a huge assistance in doing at least the rear e/l's. I guess you would add this set to the list in addition? I did search around on Amazon some. There are a lot of thin double end open wrench sets but my guess is that it's the box end that we want from the Proxxon set and that the stamped ones are far inferior to the drop forged ones? When you receive your end links, you can put your existing wrench to them to see if it's narrow enough. If not, forged is a lot better than stamped. Whether stamped would be good enough to get you by just for this, I don't know. On, most likely yes. Removal, could get iffy. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Sorry guys, I didn't make myself clear on the wrench issue, I used a forged in USA Craftsman wrench, my issue wasn't the thickness of the wrench it was the length of the wrench on the UPPER BOLT ONLY, the inner bolt was fine, tightening down the bolt was a PITA becuase the wrench was to long and I could only turn it about 1/8" at time. Could just be me and my lack of wrench time though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 When you receive your end links, you can put your existing wrench to them to see if it's narrow enough. If not, forged is a lot better than stamped. Whether stamped would be good enough to get you by just for this, I don't know. On, most likely yes. Removal, could get iffy. Thanks for additional comment. I searched for the Proxxon wrenches and they appear to have disappeared from the market except in Europe. The Amazon listing looks to maybe have been active as recently as December. They do seem to get good reviews for excellent quality for the money. I asked yesterday at my local non-dealer mechanic if they could quote me with the Moogs but they haven't gotten back to me. I figure that if they will do it reasonably I can put the wrench money toward just having them hassle with the removal etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle humjaba Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 I replaced the rears yesterday (the moog parts are much beefier than the factory ones), and took about an hour and a half. Unfortunately, it did not eliminate my clunking problem, so more searching is to be done. There was a hole in the dust boot on one of the originals, so I guess it needed to be replaced anyway, but kind of frustrating to hear that clunk again after all that work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 I replaced the rears yesterday (the moog parts are much beefier than the factory ones), and took about an hour and a half. Unfortunately, it did not eliminate my clunking problem, so more searching is to be done. There was a hole in the dust boot on one of the originals, so I guess it needed to be replaced anyway, but kind of frustrating to hear that clunk again after all that work. What kind of RSB are you running or is OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle humjaba Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 What kind of RSB are you running or is OEM? OEM. 57k miles, can't figure out what sounds like a metallic clicking/rattling over high-frequency low-amplitude bumps (expansion joints, manhole covers, etc.) on the rear passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I know this is off topic but as many of you are doing or have done rear sway bars. I'm looking for pics of homemade rsb brackets. And anyone with the avo brackets I need the ID measurement for the pipe section http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-homemade-avo-style-brackets-and-avo-brackets-203781.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Bought my moog end links this evening. All 4 for $60. I'd prefer the kartboy links but at $220 for four that probably costs them $50 to make is insane and unwanted dry butt sex to me. Plus the front moog links are classified as "problem solvers". What could go wrong with those. The fronts I have no doubt about. The rears aren't to much beefier than stock. But at $12 a piece. Ill buy a new one if it goes bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 is insane and unwanted dry butt sex to me Ouchy What could go wrong You'll never catch me saying or writing that, ever. Now your car is going to fall apart. At the very least, all 4 endlinks are going to break, in a corner, at the exact same time, 151 miles from home (towing is free for the first 150?). Moog is a great hedge for both quality and value. You should be fine. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 You'll never catch me saying or writing that, ever. Now your car is going to fall apart. At the very least, all 4 endlinks are going to break, in a corner, at the exact same time, 151 miles from home (towing is free for the first 150?). . thanks. If this happens I'm calling you for a ride. Do not have your number but I will call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Bought my moog end links this evening. All 4 for $60. I'd prefer the kartboy links but at $220 for four that probably costs them $50 to make is insane and unwanted dry butt sex to me. Plus the front moog links are classified as "problem solvers". What could go wrong with those. The fronts I have no doubt about. The rears aren't to much beefier than stock. But at $12 a piece. Ill buy a new one if it goes bad. just ordered all mine for $69.79 shipped. was about 2 seconds away to drop $200+ for the kartboys too. glad i did another quick "search". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Yea knock on wood so far I have had no issues with mine. They are linked up to a set of hotchkis front and rear sways. Granted its not like I go auto crossing. But I do take turns pretty hard. And like I said before even if one fails I can go replace it. And still be ahead of the $200 mark. Like I said its insane that the links cost 200-220 a set. When it probably costs them $50 at the most to make all 4. But I guess that's the way it works. But I'm not willing to waste my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 sounds good. fwiw, i have 107k miles on my stock endlinks. cobb front and rear sways went on at about 45k miles. no problems at all until i started to have clunking the past couple of months. i can buy 3 sets of the moogs for the price of 1 set of kartboys. (but you dont get a cool kartboy sticker +5 hp) at that point, the LGT will likely be no mas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 f'in endlinks will be the death of me. put the car on ramps. was able to loosen one of the nuts. thought, "oh this should be ok, i can do this no problem over the weekend." turned out that was the only nut that wasn't seized out of the 8. haha. sprayed on some wd-40. sprayed on some more wd-40. drank a beer. wd-40 seemed to work. but that stupid hex bolt (?)...stripped or something. i didn't have time for this nonsense. so i stopped. but now i have loose endlinks, which cause a dreadful clunking over bumps. just gonna get a hacksaw and saw them off. any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Use PB Blaster or Seafoam deep creep. WD-40 won't do much of anything to actually penetrate and help break the nuts loose. -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idiot4hire Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 I've used Mine at autox with a 22mm sway bar and s tech's and they have held up fine. I broke a stock endlink with a stock swaybar before switching to moog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostedgrocerygetter Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Wd40 is trash. It's like duct tape it's a good redneck tool. Wd40 won't help penetrate and break anything loose and people use all the time to stop squeaks and lube stuff. that's well and good for the first week. That junk attracts moisture and ends up rusting shit worse than when you began. As stated above use pb blaster or I use bg enforce. Awesome stuff. Spray and let sit over night. You be surprised what it can do. But don't bother with a hack saw you'll be all year. If it gets to that pay the money take it to a shop and let some one use air tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjk77 Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 yeah i think the wd40 actually worked. its what i had lying around and didn't feel like going out to get pb blaster. the problem is the stupid hex bolts...i think they might be stripped or something when i got my cobbs put on many years ago. i'll have another go at it when i return from vacation lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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