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GI: Bolt on KONI Set ups for the LGT


m sprank

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I agree with mike, if they rub now they will likely rub afterward.

 

Get the initial situation fixed then move on to modding.

 

We rent a fender roller and are located in NJ, so let us know if you want to borrow/rent it.

 

We also stock Konis if you wanted us to install them if you don't go the DIY w/Mike above.

 

-mike

 

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AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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I was driving dow the road the other day with a cooler in my trunk headed out to the river for some fishing and the noise got the best of me. I pulled over and ripped the rubber strips off my car. I had no idea how thick they were and that they were reinforced with metal. I had worn down the right side to almost all metal exposed and left side only a small bit of it was showing. Since removing those strips I havent heard a single creeking noise. Im sure that a fender roll should still be done but I dont see a suspension upgrade being a problem after that.

 

I talked to the "state of the art" body shop in the service center of the dealer I work at and the body shop managers looked at me like I was crazy. They didnt know what I was referring to by fender rolling. I went and talked to one of the guys in the body shop and he said sure we can do it. He said they would bend them up with a pipe and a hammer and then sand them down and seal them with an under coating but they wouldnt be responsible for the edges of the fenders buckling or paint cracking. Of course I will not be trusting them with my car. The guy in the shop never heard of or saw a fender rolling tool.

 

AZP whats the cost of renting the tool vs having you guys do it? I am still planning on coming to your shop for the install we talked about a few months ago but things are just a little slow going for automotive sales right now. thanks a bunch.

 

mike

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We unfortunately can't roll fenders (our insurance doesn't permit body work) and it's pretty risky because if you don't heat up the paint enough it can crack or if you heat it up too much it can melt.

 

With that said we rent it out for $25 w/$100 deposit.

 

Just let us know and we'll lend it out to you.

 

-mike

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I had a local guy with a fender roller and heat gun do it but it still cracked because of the "step" that is in that area where the rubber strip goes as opposed as smooth in the Imprezas.

 

Nothing a trip home and the touch up paint didn't fix. Jammed the paint in there!

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I rolled mine, I found the trick to be was keep heat gun about 6 - 10 inches away , and touch the metal make sure if hot to the touch. A lil bit more than luke warm, but not enough to burn you. If the metal was cold at all the paint would chip. Have a friend pass the heat gun , back and forth while rolling to avoid any cracks. I had a lil cracking on one side, but barely noticable. Other side came out perfect , once i found the technique, be patient and a friend is a must.
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This sounds like an awesome idea Mike--especially for those of us too hesitant to cut stock struts...I'm also terrified of spring compressors since an 'incident' I had 10 years ago:spin::lol:

 

I'm debating between the KYB or the Konis since I don't do any competitive driving--just have blown struts and want a drop via Eibachs or Epic springs. Do you stock KYBs, and if so, offer an assembly service to put Epics on them so all I have to do is bolt them on? Is there really a $500 benefit to Konis vs KYBs if all I do is commute on them?

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If you just commute and dont drive spirited the KYB's are just fine. I have those with Epics on teh 5EAT that my wife drives and she loves it.

 

Yes I have both the Koni and the KYB. Yes, I can assemble either for you. But I will need your OEM as cores.

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What would be the best option for my 2.5i? It's a DD that I want to handle a bit better. My commute is hilly with lots of corners. I'd like a bit better stance, but want a functional ride height for NY winters so I'm thinking Epic/Eibach springs.

If Koni will be the best I can save, but I'm interested in some lower priced alternatives as well.

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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If I can round up a set of blown front shocks, dust boots, top hats and washers, then a set of rear top hats, perches and dust boots. Otherwise, I have to buy new. Only have 1 set of cores making the rounds and even then, not all the parts are coming back. Last customer sent no rear dust boots back.

 

So far this service is not working out so well. Between missing core parts and customer misunderstanding about install procedures and suspension operation, it is tough. Much easier when the car is here and I do all the work rather than half the work.

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Ic.... totally understand.

 

I have a set of rear OEM set up, but I lost the fronts so now i'm stuck with no fronts core to do the koni.

 

my other option is to put coilovers on the car but for DD it's harsh when hitting bumps.

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Hi Mike,

 

As you know I will getting the Koni-Epic setup you made me installed this Thursday. My cores will ship to you the following week. Fortunately, the guys who's installing my set understands the Konis very well, so I don't forsee any problems with installation or setup. I understand which parts need to be sent back to you. No worries.

 

The question is, how long should I wait to get the car aligned, or do I get it aligned right away?

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Hi Mike,

 

The question is, how long should I wait to get the car aligned, or do I get it aligned right away?

 

I typically set the toe to 0* all around and then wait a week or so before setting my camber/toe in order to give the suspension a chance to better settle into it's normal state. That way you don't inordinately wear your tires from the toe being out after install.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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One should wait about 200-300 miles on new springs for them to settle. If you do the alignment as soon as the springs are installed, once it settles your alignment will be off. So unless you have unlimited time and free alignments... I would wait.

 

-mike

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Thanks for your input folks. I think I'll do a combination of the advice that SBT and AZP gave; set the toe at zero and wait 200-300 miles. At the rate I drive, however, 200 miles will take me about 2-3 weeks.
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I just dropped my car off to get aligned, and the tech kinda made me feel uneasy since it was my first time suggesting a custom alignment. I asked to put in 0 toe all around and -.5* (degree) camber all around...

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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^ Without some type of rear camber adjustable links, you may have -.5* static camber, but there's no way factory-available way to adjust for pos/neg camber at the rear.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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