m sprank Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 SBT and Mike from AZP both gave great info. We recommend driving for about a week to let springs settle, then align. But at least checking toe to make sure tires are straight is very important. At the least mark the camber adjustment bolts pre-removal and put them back where they were. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 So what should I suggest? I'm lowered on Konis and Epic/Eibach springs (which have already settled), and had the Whiteline front and rear LCA bushings, roll center kit and steering rack bushings installed as well. 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Same stance as stock with a ride height about 1 inch lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 So what should I suggest? I'm lowered on Konis and Epic/Eibach springs (which have already settled), and had the Whiteline front and rear LCA bushings, roll center kit and steering rack bushings installed as well. Well - the WL RCK will reduce some of the static negative camber that occurred as a result of the drop. If you want to add additional negative rear camber, or you want reduce drop-induced static camber, you need something like WL Rear Lower Control Arm Kit (RLCAK), WL Rear Control Arm Camber Correction (RCACC) or Perrin's Rear Adjustable Lower Control Arm (RALCA). Otherwise you get whatever the stock static setting "is". Front camber bolts will definitely be able to get you to neg .5* without issue. I have (and like) the Perrin setup but may go with the WL RLCAK to gain both rear camber and toe adjustability. Might include the RCACC too just to keep the rear trailing arm better aligned. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Since the rears aren't adjustable I would personally go with stock to slightly negative camber in the front. The adjustable Rear LCA setups in the Northeast are worthless except on a race car. Guaranteed to corrode and be useless for adjustments within a year. We've seen this happen time and time again -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Mike, Anyway to overcome this corrosive action, i.e., good quality white lithium grease, regular WD40 spray after cleaning, etc.? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 You could try some heavy duty protectant spray on the turn-buckle and the threads. I would use something that is more of a waxy grease and re-apply it every few months to make sure it stays lubed. We've seen them seize in less than a year up here in the Northeast. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Mike is right. Damn the weather sometimes. I used Marine Grease on everything. The kind you use in trailer bearings that carry boats. Tends to repel water and chemicals very well due to its intended use environment. That and I washed the car twice a week all winter long, no matter how much ice I made or if my hose froze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 M I used Marine Grease on everything. The kind you use in trailer bearings that carry boats. Tends to repel water and chemicals very well due to its intended use environment. I like this idea... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Well - the WL RCK will reduce some of the static negative camber that occurred as a result of the drop. That's incorrect. The Whiteline Roll-Center Kit doesn't have any impact on camber. All it does, is change the angle of the tie rods. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Well, I finally was able to get my Koni-Epic setup from Mike installed yesterday. As Mike suggested, I had the installer set the Stiffness in the middle, between full soft and full firm. As I drive it more I'll adjust them from there. So far I love it, but of course I feel the crappy roads around here alot more. As you all know, the stance is perfect. It looks great. As far as the alignement, I'm going to drive it for 5 days and get it aligned on Monday. The mechanic told me that driving on the bad roads around here will be enough to settle the springs in a few days, so Monday it is. Thanks again, Mike, for providing this service. Other than waiting for things to ship back and forth from PA to CA it worked out just perfect. The cores will be shipping next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 You can do an awful lot of damage to tires in just a few days if the alignment is jacked... which it will be... [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 If the installer marked the camber colts before removal and out them back in place it wont be that much worse than it was before. But, I have driven about 100 miles and worn through a set of new tires. Of course they were squealing in a straight line, lol. But that happens when you lift a truck 10 inches and drive on the OEM wheels and tires to a buddies tire shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Have any of you guys with the Epic springs had any squeaking/creaking after a few days? We've been seeing this occurring on almost every set of Epics both that we installed as well as others have. We are contemplating making a rubber/urethane pad to help compensate for the shorter than stock when unloaded Epic springs. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 That's incorrect. The Whiteline Roll-Center Kit doesn't have any impact on camber. All it does, is change the angle of the tie rods. Perhaps I should has said WL Roll-Center/Bump Steer kit which includes the tie rod ends and the raised ball joints. When I lowered the car on Bilstein/Swifts, I gained significant negative camber as a result, which couldn't be resolved by simply dialing-it-out with the stock camber bolts. The R-C/BSK (KCA313) alleviated that by raising the front roll-center geometry which in turn helped to get back to near stock steering geometry, and to maintain a better camber angle. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Gotcha, I thought you just had the tie-rod ends with their extended ends. The extended ball joints should drop the control arm back down, and your right, remove some of that camber. That kit is on my list of mods. Along with top hat spacers, and front and rear LCA bushings. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyT Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 If the installer marked the camber colts before removal and out them back in place it wont be that much worse than it was before. But, I have driven about 100 miles and worn through a set of new tires. Of course they were squealing in a straight line, lol. But that happens when you lift a truck 10 inches and drive on the OEM wheels and tires to a buddies tire shop. I've had it on the highway at high speeds, on local roads and curvies and I don't see any wear or hear any squeals. Besides having amazing handling it feels pretty normal. He must have done a good job getting it close. Of course, checking and performing the alignment on Monday will tell how close he got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Have any of you guys with the Epic springs had any squeaking/creaking after a few days? We've been seeing this occurring on almost every set of Epics both that we installed as well as others have. We are contemplating making a rubber/urethane pad to help compensate for the shorter than stock when unloaded Epic springs. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Mike! http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/epic-engineering-lowering-springs-141238p3.html Seems like lithium grease may solve the problem? Post #90 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Yeah we've been using Heavy Duty grease on a few of the cars with the issue, but I'm looking for a more permanent solution as the grease will eventually wear away. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 Louder stereo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Mike, If you make a urethane pad to stop the squeaking I will buy from you. Even though I don't have Epics (I have Ions) they sqeak quite a bit. Gets annoying. Have any of you guys with the Epic springs had any squeaking/creaking after a few days? We've been seeing this occurring on almost every set of Epics both that we installed as well as others have. We are contemplating making a rubber/urethane pad to help compensate for the shorter than stock when unloaded Epic springs. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Ok, we'll see if we can get some thin ones made, just enough to pre-load the springs. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 ZOMBIE THREAD!!! Mike (infamous) are you still offering this service? Mike (AZP) did you end up making a Delrin or Teflon spacer/ship to address the squeaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 No longer offering the service. Once again, too many cores lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 One (dozen) bad apple(s)... Thanks for replying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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