m sprank Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Ride height and body roll. Springs hold the car up. Struts stop the springs from bouncing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 So the Epics give a very minor drop, and you can add a spacer to the rears to keep the wagon level. The ride is smooth (close to OEM?) but because they're a progressive rate, they reduce body roll in turns. Additionally, with the Koni's, they won't be bouncy. Do I have it summed up? I'd like to keep the relatively compliant OEM ride for our craptastic roads and my 17" wheels (first DD with 17s!), but wouldn't mind some roll resistance. Sounds like an awesome service, hope you're still doing it come fall time when I anticipate my fronts being toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 When you turn the knob on the Konis, do you hear/feel "clicks" or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 So the Epics give a very minor drop, and you can add a spacer to the rears to keep the wagon level. The ride is smooth (close to OEM?) but because they're a progressive rate, they reduce body roll in turns. Additionally, with the Koni's, they won't be bouncy. Do I have it summed up? I'd like to keep the relatively compliant OEM ride for our craptastic roads and my 17" wheels (first DD with 17s!), but wouldn't mind some roll resistance. Sounds like an awesome service, hope you're still doing it come fall time when I anticipate my fronts being toast. That is about it. Ride is very nice. Even on East Coast Roads. Leo, they turn approx 3 full turns. No clicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdd Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 m sprank - you have mail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 PM and email sent. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piripi Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 So epic springs and KYB GR2 offers a good ride?? The difference is price between the Konis and KYB is $500 or so. Is the KYB GR2 better than the stock KYB? I am really tired of the Tein H techs(nasty spring) and worn to death stock shocks. I am trying to save as I want a Supercharger for the Miata and fat 6UL 15x9 wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 They are slightly firmer than OEM. Made to KYB specs instead of Subaru specs. Much like the difference in Bilstein HD's and SpecB Bilsteins. The ride is not "track". But it is better than OEM. The combo actually rides very nice. With a good set of sway bars on the car now and better brakes again, it feels much more German to me. A set of steering rack bushings and I bet it feels like a 335i almost an M3. I should note that I also am running 18x8 wheels with 235 Dunlop rubber. Good tires make a HUGE difference as I know you also realize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewsweet Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Im having a hard time making suspension replacement decisions. My first question would be, are the Spec B tophats of any benefit over OEM LGT tophats, other than fitment for bilstien struts? I have 184.xxx kms on my original struts and springs. Curious to know if i should replace stock tophats, or if there an item that doesnt "wear" also torn between this setup and coilovers. im sure i would never use the full potential of coilovers but the ride height adjustability is a big + for Nova Scotia winters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Larger, more firm bearing in SpecB top hats. No major benefit for DD cars. Everything wears. Even a chassis gets clapped out eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 ^ But unfortunately don't work without washer modification with the Koni inserts?? *sad* Wish they fit-up like they do with the Bilsteins - would like the larger bearing and surface for the Konis. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 ^ But unfortunately don't work without washer modification with the Koni inserts?? *sad* Wish they fit-up like they do with the Bilsteins - would like the larger bearing and surface for the Konis. It's a $1.25 for the washer to make it work. Takes .01 min extra in the assembly. I ran them for 3 years on my LGT/Koni/Pink Setup and they made a big difference, especially on track. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 With no associated noise or fit issues? That would be awesome. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 With no associated noise or fit issues? That would be awesome. Not a single creak or fitment issue. I ran these on my car for close to 70,000 miles with no issues including at least 20 track days. I also live and drive in the NY/NJ area so our roads aren't exactly easy on cars with modified suspensions. The pot holes would have rattled anything loose that wasn't 100%. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Good to know. Didn't want to give up the larger (better) Spec B/Bilstein top hat for the Koni upgrade. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I remember Mikes car with that set up and would trust his word and experience with the Konis (and many other parts and installs too). If in the Tri-State area I highly recommend AZP for all your Subaru mechanical work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 I remember Mikes car with that set up and would trust his word and experience with the Konis (and many other parts and installs too). If in the Tri-State area I highly recommend AZP for all your Subaru mechanical work. And likewise if you are in the SoCal area, definitely head over to the OTHER Mike's place and get parts and service! -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 If the Tri-State Mike is as awesome as the SoCal Mike, they would make a dynamic duo. Kudos to you both for great LGT.com support. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 I actually had Mikes guys install brake lines on my 5EAT before heading West for the road trip. I also had Lee tint my windows. All my tools were already packed into a POD and moved out. I tried to do S/S brake lines with a standard open end/box end wrench. LOL. Had to call on Mike for some assistance. AZP to the rescue, without the standard East Coast price gouge. Great service, honest prices and my tint job is ridiculously beautiful. Nothing but praise here. Sorry if that all sounded a bit mushy and ghey... no one handles my Subies. But AZP did, with the white glove service touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewsweet Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Well im getting closer to having my mind made up, just bought some pinks from "01RS25" I'll have two complete sets of USDM LGT struts so chopping one set up to put in the less expensive Konis is tempting. Though the little man in my head says i need to spend the extra bucks and get the Bilstein setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Go for the Konis, they are cheaper and better than the Bilistiens IMO. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Aren't the Konis lifetime warrantied too? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewsweet Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Aren't the Konis lifetime warrantied too? lifetime warranty is reason enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stowny Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 im am seriously considering changing my suspension on my 08 legacy but I need some help figuring out whether or not my current wheel setup will work or what I need to do to make it work. I have a set of 19 x 7.5s on my car with a 53+ offset wrapped in 215/35/19 kumho ecstas. The front tires never rub but the back tires do on the outside edge (i think thats the only spot) when going over large bumps, whenever I have any paseenger in the back seat, during hard turns, and hard acceleration. Although it sounds like they rub all the time I normally drive by myself and do my best to avoid these situations to keep rubbing to a minimum but its still annoying. I took some pictures to show the fender gap. Im trying to figure out a way to correct the problem so I can do a suspension upgrade without changing my wheel and tire combo if thats possible. I[ATTACH]98246[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]98247[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]98248[/ATTACH] I know switching out my springs to epics will lower my car slightly and most likely will only add to the rubbing issue but is there any chance the shock and spring combo will stiffen the suspension decreasing the amount of travel and correct the rubbing? How would I determine if rolling the fenders will be enough to help the tires clear the fender? Should my stock setup be this soft? I hit a huge dip in the road last year RIGHT after I put these on and had the alignment done. I had spec b stockers in the trunk/back seat with tires mounted on them and I bottomed out pretty hard @ 70mph. I have since had the car on a lift and inspected the rear suspension - im not expert but It didnt look like anything was out of wack and the guy at the tire place couldnt see anything wrong or alarming. Is it possible the shocks are blown and I just cant see it? I can push the back end of the car down pretty easily and before this issue I never really checked so I dont have anything to compare it to. Im still learning about my car so any help or input is greatly aprreciated. If I can resolve the issue and I place an order how long do I have to send back the cores? Thank you! The back right tire is the primary culprit. I just went out and measured from the same spot on the outside edge of both back tires. The back right side is sitting about a half inch lower then the back left side. I'm going to move the car to more level ground. What should be the distance between the tire and the fender with this size tire combo on stock suspension? Also I did not have any rubbing issues - absolutely zero - with the 18" spec B tires wrapped in 225/45 dunlop sport m3 winter tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Its most likely your wheel/tire combo. But could be damage. First remove the rubber liner from the rear fender edge. Then get a roll job. If it rubs now, it will rub still if not more. Once the PayPal time period for a refund has expired, I rules change with cores. It costs me money out of pocket after about 60 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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