solidxsnake Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Finally have gotten around to digging into the kernel USB drivers for flo... I switched back to ElementalX 4.05 on SlimLP 5.1.1 beta, and now the USB devices are being detected after a power loss without having to reboot the tablet (takes a little bit, but it works). The only problem now is that it doesn't detect that it's charging... I think I found a fix for it in the usb-otg driver in the kernel, so I'm rebuilding the kernel now and will try flashing it and seeing how it changes things. Will keep you posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 For anyone having problems with charging being reported while using USB-OTG with ElementalX, check out the update flar2 just posted with my fix: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66049968&postcount=5452 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Finally finished (well, mostly) my in-dash Nexus 7 install: Showing some of the basic features (music, BtSsm, Waze/Google Maps). SlimLP gives me some extra buttons in the nav bar that I use for previous/next track. Also gives long-press options for all of the nav buttons. I use a long-press on the recents button to shut off the screen, and a long press on the home button to open up the power menu (like I hit the power button). Running SlimLP 5.1.1 and my modded version of the ElementalX-4.05 kernel (details in my previous post). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 For anyone having problems with charging being reported while using USB-OTG with ElementalX, check out the update flar2 just posted with my fix: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=66049968&postcount=5452 This is awesome. Now I wish I had gone the N7 2013 route! BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Solidxsnake, any tips on the addition of a power button to the nexus 7? I got a switch and I'll probably work on it tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Also, what glue do you guys use to hold the device in place? Edited April 1, 2016 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Solidxsnake, any tips on the addition of a power button to the nexus 7? I got a switch and I'll probably work on it tomorrow. Sharp knife, steady hand, thin-gauge wire. It's pretty straightforward, as long as you don't mind destroying the stock button in the process (you need to cut off the springy metal cap that is the button off of the ribbon cable to solder wires in its place). If you're good with a multimeter, you could also find points to solder to on the board. Remind me if you have a 2012 or 2013 N7... I have a spare of each sitting at home, so I could find points on the mainboard to solder to so you don't have to destroy the ribbon cable in the process. As for glue, I glued two 90-deg brackets to the tablet, and then glued the crap out of those brackets to the vents (could also have drilled holes in the vents and used nuts/bolts, but didn't want to modify the JDM bezel because $$$). I'm using the following glue gun and glue sticks. Hasn't had any problem with running the heat. I also added some posterboard extensions to the vents to ensure I lose as little of the forced air through the vents as possible. Glue gun: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-PRO2-100-100-Watt-Temperature-Industrial/dp/B006IY359K?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00]Amazon.com: Surebonder PRO2-100 100-Watt High Temperature Industrial Glue Gun, Black: Home Improvement[/ame] Glue sticks: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-BS-12-Temperature-Sticks-4-Inch/dp/B000BQUTMW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00]Amazon.com: Surebonder BS-12 High Temperature Best Glue Sticks, 4-Inch: Home Improvement[/ame] Edited April 1, 2016 by solidxsnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 thanks for the info. I have a 2013, which I believe is what you have installed as well. I'll take the back cover off to have a good look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 ok. I just took the 'power/volume control' ribbon out of the device, and removed that 'springy metal cap' out of the way. I need to go buy a soldering iron with adjustable temperature.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) ok. I just took the 'power/volume control' ribbon out of the device, and removed that 'springy metal cap' out of the way. I need to go buy a soldering iron with adjustable temperature.. Yeah, looking at the 2013 mainboard, it'd be incredibly tough to solder to one of surface-mount components nearby... they're very small (0201 components, so .002" x .001") and it looks like the traces are all routed very close to each other. A much different story than the 2012 mainboard. Also: be very careful after you've soldered onto the ribbon cable... it's very fragile, and if you get too much force on it, you run the risk of pulling the metal trace right out of the cable. Best bet is to, once you've successfully soldered and tested it to work, cover the entire area with hot glue or similar to protect it (see the pictures of how I did it on my old 2012 N7 earlier in the thread). Edited April 1, 2016 by solidxsnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 Yeah you're right. I'll do that. Thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 That's what I'm thinking of doing, rather than trying to track down the JDM part. What all do you need to cut, and how much smaller is the opening compared to the JDM opening? SC It is indeed discontinued. So I bought instead an OEM USDM nav bezel, which will certainly require some chopping and stuff (and a bit of screen real estate loss). ---> 66060AG07A http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=95791&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319109029 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Here's some shots of a N7 2013 next to a USDM Nav bezel. Let me know if there's any other shots/angles you'd like to see. Also, here's a post of mine detailing what I did with my old USDM cubby bezel to fit the N7 2012 (similar to what would have to be done with the 2013). http://i.imgur.com/OLfHPAM.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HWcFIIH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tEmQAq4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Oh dear! That's a bit more than I thought... SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Oh dear! That's a bit more than I thought... SC Yup. If you don't care about having the vents fully functional, it's not that bad (just cut them and pull the vertical deflectors out), but to keep them working takes some craftiness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 There has gotta be a better smaller android tablet that would fit better no?!? Sent from somewhere in Potatoland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Amazon has their Fire 6 HD. What are the dimensions of the opening for the USDM part? Also, the new Samsung Tab A might be just able to fit with minor modification of the vents. http://liliputing.com/2016/03/samsung-launches-7-inch-galaxy-tab.html SC Edited April 4, 2016 by Smithcraft Added the Samsung Tab A info 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 There has gotta be a better smaller android tablet that would fit better no?!? Sent from somewhere in Potatoland Amazon has their Fire 6 HD. What are the dimensions of the opening for the USDM part? Also, the new Samsung Tab A might be just able to fit with minor modification of the vents. http://liliputing.com/2016/03/samsung-launches-7-inch-galaxy-tab.html SC I think the other issue is software... do these devices have custom kernels with OTG + Charging already released? Granted, it's not that hard to hack the kernel to allow it, but that's more work than most people are willing to put in to do/learn how to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smithcraft Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I'm not sure. I did spend a few minutes while bored out of my mind at work looking at stuff for the Fire 6 HD. Plenty of stuff came up at XDA, but I didn't look too far into the sections. I wonder if it might be too small? I didn't even know about the Samsung Tab A (Germany for now) until I came home and was going through posts at Liliputing. It just came out a couple of weeks ago. I presume it has the same hackability as any other Samsung device. Not being a Samsung user, I can't say what that is. Something else I saw at Liliputing, was a new dev board. They post them up every now and again, and they are basically Android motherboards so generic Android should run. The comments about the particular board I was looking at were strongly negative, so I didn't post a link. However, combine a dev board with a display that does fit (Xenarc?) and I would imagine you'd be good to go! Another thing I thought of, was that rather than hacking up an existing Nav bezel thingie, why not make a mold of it and then work from the mock up? Or maybe some enterprising soul could make a mold of the JDM/AVO part, then adjust it's asymmetrical RHD layout to be more LHD friendly? SC 1994 Legacy MI 2008 Legacy GT specB 2023 Crosstrek Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 A lot of people have been asking the same thing. I just don't think the economy of scale/demand has been there for anyone to find it beneficial to do. It'd be pretty straightforward to laser-scan in the USDM and JDM nav bezels and play with them in CAD to make something, but actually putting in the money to make a mold, etc., is a different story. Though it wouldn't be too bad to 3D print it in a couple pieces and use a solvent weld to join them. Then just plastidip the thing (I think the stock piece is plastidipped or similar from the factory)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 fwiw, I am almost done with my USDM bezel install with the nexus 7 2013. I'll provide pictures soon but so far, I am keeping my vents fully functional . But yeah, it does require patience with your dremel and a VERY steady hand. I am also done with my remote power button too. I'll provide a few pictures and maybe a video when it's all done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 For those who understands kernels and stuff, I am having an interesting issue.. My nexus 7 2013 (with Timur on lollipop) no longer recognizes the USB devices attached to it. I tried unplugging, re-plugging, rebooting several times. No luck . Additionally, the device shows it is charging but the battery is actually discharging. However, if I plug a regular USB cable (not OTG Y), it will charge the tablet. This has been happening for about a week now. I would finally note that before this happened, my USB OTG cable was going bad and kept loosing connection on and off with the USB devices. So I am wondering if using the bad cable long enough would have corrupted the kernel or something. I don't even know if that is possible.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 For those who understands kernels and stuff, I am having an interesting issue.. My nexus 7 2013 (with Timur on lollipop) no longer recognizes the USB devices attached to it. I tried unplugging, re-plugging, rebooting several times. No luck . Additionally, the device shows it is charging but the battery is actually discharging. However, if I plug a regular USB cable (not OTG Y), it will charge the tablet. This has been happening for about a week now. I would finally note that before this happened, my USB OTG cable was going bad and kept loosing connection on and off with the USB devices. So I am wondering if using the bad cable long enough would have corrupted the kernel or something. I don't even know if that is possible.. Have you gotten a new OTG cable? I very much doubt your issue is software. You could try re-flashing your ROM/kernel, but I highly doubt it will change anything. I'm betting money on a bad OTG Y-cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I forgot to mention that I 'supposedly' fixed my OTG-Y cable by soldering a new micro usb connector. But maybe I messed up. I will recheck each pin with my multimeter tonight.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I forgot to mention that I 'supposedly' fixed my OTG-Y cable by soldering a new micro usb connector. But maybe I messed up. I will recheck each pin with my multimeter tonight.. Yeah, that would be my bet. Those connectors are a massive PITA to solder reliably. All else fails, I'd buy another y-cable, or find a good OTG micro-USB plug and splice into it (away from the connector itself, I mean). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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