bluesuby

I think I should be doing something before the bedding procedure. Can I attempt a "cleaning" with spray brake cleaner on the rotor or a light sanding followed by a spray cleaning? I'm thinking there must be some crud on the rotor (although not so visible) as suggested by what I have read.

I have been experiencing brake shudder when braking hard, especially at speeds over 60 mph. The rotors were replaced with OEM parts a couple years ago, but I have heard some brake pads will leave a residue on rotors causing this problem. Should I try brake cleaner? A light sanding followed by the cleaner? What has worked for you? I really doubt the rotors are warped since the brakes were never overheated and in Jersey there really aren's many steep hills which require repeated use of the brakes.

Check the relays. Swap the a/c relay with the cooling fans relay. If that does it replace both. Don't risk overheating because the fans quit.

2005 LGT Wagon with 185,000 miles. Rear alignment could not be done with the eccentric adjustment bolts frozen by rust.Substantial repair cost includes replacement of the rear arms and related parts at a price of just under $2000. Question: With this many miles and alignment records showing less than one degree out of spec during past alignments, I was told just watch tire wear and any squirrelly behavior before doing anything. Tires look good and I'll be swapping for winter tires (in the Fall) I have had for several years. Annual mileage about 6000 in the future. Any words of wisdom or projections of how long I can do without adjustments or scrapping the car? Engine, clutch and brakes solid. No body damage or accident history. Thanks all.

I also had leakage from the rear brake lines.Subaru denied any help. This really pissed me off since the independent shop said there was no evidence of rustproofing goo was applied at a factory recall. The independent shop replaced the lines with new brake lines fabricated to avoid putting them in harms way with another exposure to road salt etc. The fabricated lines also allowed replacement without dropping the fuel tank. Saved a lot of labor expense.

My Konis have more than 110,000 miles and are still great. Big improvement in my LGT wagon's rear end.

Mulch. In bags of course.

How old are the plugs? And if you bought it at a dealer, they should find and fix the problem. I don't know what rules protect consumers in Belgium, but I think it would be fair to have them resolve the issue.

I remember one day at lunch having tuna from Easter Island. Incredible. I asked if the tuna was exported to the United States. My host thought for a moment then said "Sorry, we only have enough for Chile."

Thanks but they would be useless to me. A friend is big into off road vehicles and used military trucks. I am going to gift the two I have because one or more of his vehicles probably has a 24v system. What pissed me off is RockAuto listed these under manufacturer close-outs in the Subaru Legacy section. They were only a couple bucks each but the return postage exceeds their cost. Advice for Rock Auto buyers....read the description very carefully. And of corse there's no way to communicate with Rock. No Phone. No email. Just a template on their problem web page which doesn't encourage conversation.

Rock Auto sent me an email advertising manufacturers closeouts. One item was replacement H3 bulbs specifically (among other cars) for my 2005 LGT Wagon. Since the bulbs were only a couple bucks each I ordered a pair. They arrived today and the packaging states they are 24 volt. No mention of wattage. I don't understand electricity very well, so I'm trying to figure out what will happen if I install them? Will the bulbs actually be dim compared to 12 volt oem bulbs because they are intended for a 24 volt system (truck or off road application) ? Or will they run hot and fry the fog light assemblies? As stated, no mention of wattage output. The part number is Wagner BP2470/H3 and the package does mention "auxiliary off road". Thank you all.

I had this problem with my 2005 LGT. Of course my car has a 4 cylinder engine and there are a lot of differences. There was a manufacturers recall which involved replacing the Electronic Control Module and the relays which control he fans. You might do well to contact the Subaru distributor in Chile and see if they did a recall to solve the problem. I do have some bad news. The ECM is usually not on the dealer's shelf. Its value is probably close to $1000 USD and dealers won't invest in an expensive part which might sit around forever. If the dealer will replace the ECM make sure you bring ALL the keys for the car so the dealer will "reflash" all of them so they work with the new "brain" in your car. Good luck. Where are you from? I visited Santiago, Valparaiso, Irica and Iquique. You have some great wine and seafood in Chile. Since my next stops were Paraguay and Uruguay I was told to enjoy the fish in Chile. Nobody eats anything that swims in those countries!

Good choice. You will be happy with AZP

I believe the automatic and manual applications are different. Make sure of the fit.

Very correct on all comments on Candlepower. Kenny is very helpful and knows his stuff....he's been there a long time.

My seat heater quit years ago and I don't miss it at all. The only time i turned it on was when going to the gym in the morning during the winter (wearing shorts). Even then I would switch it off after 10 minutes.

$400 parts and labor. The pipes were fabricated (mechanic runs a racing shop) because oem pipes were unavailable, and the new pipes were re-routed so the gas tank did not have to be dropped. Had the tank been removed there would have been another 6 hours labor added to the bill. I trust this guy and I'm sure the work was done right.

Final chapter of this story. Picked up my car from the shop today. Mechanic replaced the brake pipes and was able to do it with a re-routing of the pipes so the gas tank could be left undisturbed. He as unable to find replacement lines so he fabricated some from new pipe. I asked if there was any other corrosion or issues. He said he read the recall info I left for him and he said the dealer may have inspected the lines but did not apply an anti-corrosion to the original pipes. Because the pipes are hidden above a splash shield, the absence of anti-corrosion spray would not be evident. Very sad comment on trusting some dealers.

Update: Cherry Hill Subaru would not return my calls. SOA listened and told me my car is too old and has too many miles to consider repairs (unless I do it on my own). They aded that they performed recall work according to instructions, and since 6 years have gone by they have lived up to their responsibilities. I told the SOA rep (Brian) they might wish to reconsider their position. Many people would not notice a soft brake pedal, and by the time they discovered the car is not going to stop as planned, it will stop but not without some help from another car or a tree. If anyone finds a friend or family member became a victim of this dumb decision please PM me. I will be happy to provide a deposition regarding SOA's decision.

This is anything but a small problem. The car is puking fluid like you cannot believe. I'm thinking replacement of the entire line (maybe both....there may very well be two).

Six years ago I was asked to bring my 2005 LGT wagon in for recall WQK 47. The dealer tech found no fluid leaking from the rear brake lines and sprayed a waxy rust preventative on the metal lines. Yesterday I noticed a puddle on the driveway, a half full brake fluid reservoir and after a quick drive around the neighborhood a soft pedal and a good amount of brake fluid being expelled. Has anyone had experience with Subaru making good on this recall a second time around? Seems to me the problem was never solved, just covered up. First call is to Cherry Hill Subaru. I anticipate a second call to SOA, I am not driving the car anywhere, Leakage is catastrophic and the car goes by flatbed. Any comments appreciated!

Browsing this morning and found some explanations why the a/c isn't performing. I too have a problem which is the a/c is not putting out 100%. The unit is fully charged and the compressor cycles on/off as it should. When the ambient temp reaches high 80s I sometimes get good cooling but if on a trip over an hour it will suddenly fall off. The compressor continues to cycle, and the air coming from the vents is slightly cool, but if the sun is out on a cloudless day things are not good. I removed the dash panel to make sure the drain hose isn't plugged. It's ok. It also looks very clean in there despite Subaru stopped puttting cabin air filters in late 2004-sometime 2005 because (I was told) the replacement of filters involved tearing the dash out. I read up on the system and found there's an expansion valve but it looks like the system must be evacuated to replace this part. I am no expert on a/c and this job is beyond me....if indeed that's the issue. Any ideas on what might be causing the problem? I think someone mentioned a temperature sensor on the evaporator. Is that part easily changed out? I'm probably going to visit a professional shop, but since it's now September and weather relief should be here soon. I hate to spend hundreds on a fix before next June. My car has 183,000 miles and Murphy's Law says as soon as the job is done, someone will t-bone me and total out the car.

I don't know the pressure values. If you are referring to the charge it was checked at a shop. Running at speed has no effect on the cooling. The engine temp stays in the acceptable range.

With record high temperature here I have been dealing with a/c that won't blow cold when the outside temp gets up around 98 to 100 degrees. Things are ok when the temperature is lower, even by a couple degrees. I did notice the compressor is not cycling when this event happens. Any ideas for a fix? The system is fully charged, and several months ago I thought the compressor was reluctant to turn over. That was fixed by replacing the harmonic balancer which was pretty well shot after 181,000 miles.

You will need to remove the engine cover.