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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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I finished my spark plug change last week.

 

At first I was a little nervous because the idle was terrible.

I have never had a problem with idle in the 3 years since the car was new.

 

I changed the plugs because I hit 60,000 miles and not because I thought the plugs were going bad. Car was running great before.

 

So to have the car shaking right after had me thinking I made a mistake.

But I took my time and did what I thought was a very good job.

 

I believe the rough idle was just a result of the ECU being reset.

 

It went away within the first day driving the car.

Since then the car has been very strong and feels like new.

 

I even ran into a red ferrari and my passenger was completely blown away that the $200k exotic could only pull 3/4 of a car length on me.

 

(this was done on a private road of course)

 

 

The only thing I was concerned with was how tight the spark plugs should be. I later read some hints about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past making contact.

 

Too late though. I just made them as tight as I could without jumping on the ratchet. With the space available I don't see how I could fit a torque wrench. I agree with the last post in the fact that I did not feel comfortable cranking down on anything with the wobble or universal joint.

I made things work but could have used a 2" extension. (I couldn't find that anywhere.) But with the 3" and beyond I was able to make things work.

 

Maybe even 1" would be useful if it could be found.

 

As an encouragement to all of you out there considering doing this yourself this was one of the EASIEST things I've done for the car.

 

It just takes time. Be patient, and get the right tools.

I made a list and made sure I wasn't lacking when I started.

 

I took out the battery and the air intake system completely before starting.

 

Took my time and did things right.

 

With all the tips I read while on the fourms lately I never really got stuck on anything.

 

I did have to use some pliers to carefully remove the spark plug socket a few times.

 

I never had ANY trouble removing the coil packs but I think that is because I read all the tips first.

 

Rotate 180 and it came right out and went right back on the FIRST TIME.

 

I'll be doing it again as we have two spec b's in the family so I'll let you know if I am much faster the second time around.

 

There were no padding to remove along the spark plug area so that wasn't an issue for me.

 

Good Luck!

 

 

PICS TO FOLLOW.... please comment on the spark plug pictures.

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I just made them as tight as I could without jumping on the ratchet.

Really? An tight as you could? For your sake I hope you are really weak and couldn't turn them more than a turn and a half or 2 turns...

Otherwise you gonna have big issues later on...

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Here are the spark plugs after 60,000 miles.

Most of those miles were stage 2 cobb map.

 

Just switched to Stage2 custom Tuning Alliance map after spark plug change and other 60k service was complete.

 

Also notice the box that the spark plugs came in.

This is the only way to go IMHO. Reasonable price.

Pre-gapped and made specifically for subaru by NGK.

Best part they are usually in stock.

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Really? An tight as you could? For your sake I hope you are really weak and couldn't turn them more than a turn and a half or 2 turns...

Otherwise you gonna have big issues later on...

 

Didn't want to leave them too loose. :)

 

I read about the problems... does not sound fun if they are too tight.

 

But like I said... reasonable force and made them TIGHT.

 

I didn't lean over the wrench and put all my wait into it.

 

I was on my knees for 90% of the entire job anyways...

 

Probably over torque. Hopefully not enough to make permanent damage.

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Didn't want to leave them too loose. :)

 

I read about the problems... does not sound fun if they are too tight.

 

But like I said... reasonable force and made them TIGHT.

 

I didn't lean over the wrench and put all my wait into it.

 

I was on my knees for 90% of the entire job anyways...

 

Probably over torque. Hopefully not enough to make permanent damage.

One of my plugs was either over torqued or something, but it was a bitch to get out. I really had to put my weight into it to get it out. Anyway, about 4k after new plugs that one blew out of the engine and stripped...

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lol you really should torque to spec. everything has a spec for a reason and spark plugs are no different. the crush washer on the plugs and the threading on the plugs is designed for a torque spec and you can easily strip those threads. it's pretty common to happen especially if the heads are aluminum. i'm a new LGT owner and haven't done enough research but i would assume the heads are aluminum. which can easily be stripped. and the last thing you want to kick yourself about is filling the cuylinder with aluminum shavings cuz you crossed the threads

 

you'll be happier down the line trust me :-D

 

-Luke

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Cross threading will give you more a problem than bits of aluminum in the cylinder. Little bits of aluminum will burn up and probably not be a problem.

 

yes there will be other issues, like having to helicoil your head, but haha uhmm little bits of aluminum WILL give you problems in your cylinder. what are your pistons made of? again like i said i'm a new LGT owner but a well versed gear head. I would assume these pistons are aluminum, probably AC8A grade or something?

 

-Luke

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I don't see anything wrong with a helicoil in my head, it works better than without one :p

 

(Yes, I have a helicoil in my head, I like being able to thread sparkplugs into my skull)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I just replaced the plugs in my 06 Outback XT last night. No fun if you have fat fingers like me. Is there a difference between the models that would make more space in some models and less in the Outback or is it just me? I missed the video on how to get the coil pack of the rear driver side plug, but I freed up some of the wiring so that I could rotate the pack 180 degrees and there was still no way to get that thing out of there. I got fed up and pulled the rubber boot and spring off the pack, left the pack hanging with it still pointing into the head. Woked OK but not very elegant.

 

My other issue was getting the spark plug socket back out after installing the new plugs. I ended up doing a two part procedure. Start new plug with rubber sock in socket into head, pull of socket, remove rubber sock, finish tigtening plug.

 

Car ran noticably better with new plugs at 64k miles. One weird thing happened though. I did the change last night. Went for a test drive and all was well. It started fine this am and went for my 50 min drive to town. Dropped of my kid at school, and the battery was dead??? Got a jump start and went to a shop, had the battery tested; it had a dead cell in it??? Coincidence or ???:confused:

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  • 4 weeks later...
That's more than it cost me to have my stripped out plug heli-coiled...

 

Actually, given that it's $40-50 for the plugs, $150 for the labor isn't outrageous, IMHO.

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... but I found a guy who will do spark plugs AND a compression check for $50 of labor :D

 

:confused: What, did you have to get all the prep work done...oh, like getting the battery and airbox and coil packs out of the way?? :lol:

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed." - T. Jefferson
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not too shabby sir....

 

...you sure no 30pk of cold ones afterwards was even hinted at? :lol:

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed." - T. Jefferson
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Great write up! I'm doing mine today, and what a pain in the arse. Access to the coil pack bolt on the rear passenger side is causing my knuckles to become bloody. If only my hands were a bit smaller. :)
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^ How about the one heat-range colder, too? ;)

 

OK, I should stop pestering you today (yes, I'm the guy from Ohio, who bought an ACT package from you this AM). :redface:

 

Thanks again for looking out for us, Jeremy! :)

 

Too bad I can no longer just pick up and leave for a few days, otherwise, I'd drive over to have y'all put in my clutch!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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On my 07 GT this was a bit more involved b/c of the airpump on the driver's side that runs a tube right over the coilpacks to the back of the head.

 

I was able to disconnect the tube at the pump itself (beside AC compressor) and just temporarily move it up above the AC line & fuel lines while doing the install. The other end of the airpump line is connected to a soft connector at the back of the head which proved to have enough complience to allow it to bend out of the way with no issues.

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http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-1006/NGK-Subaru-Legacy-GT/Detail

 

Is that the same plug as above ?

 

Just ordered a set, under $40.00 shipped.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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