Spark Plug Install Instructions

[RumblyXT]

Is it ok to put dielectric grease on the Coil grommet inside diameter so next time it doesn’t get stuck to the spark plug?

[whitexc]

I am a fan of dielectric grease. It's like Frank's Red Hot (sauce for those non WNYers).....I put that $hit on everything.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[RumblyXT]

Loll Ok thanks Whitexc.

[Max Capacity]

Loll Ok thanks Whitexc.

 

It's been a few days, were you able to get this done... ?

 

Oh, just checked your thread in the 4th Gen forum, I see you found the missing spring for the coil boot. about post # 63.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-05-obxt-journal-287596p2.html

Edited May 27, 2022 by Max Capacity

[RumblyXT]

Yes, thankfully found that missing spring and the misfire is gone.

 

Honestly, next time I tackle those spark plugs, I think I’ll just raise the motor, the cam covers are leaking anyways, also have to take care of that so I definitely could use a bit more space.

 

Looking under the engine, it seems one could place a small piece of 2x4 and rest it on the engine block service plugs between the oil pan and the exhaust manifold. Having the engine elevated even if it’s just 1”-1.5” would offer a lot more clearance to work there.

 

I’d be concerned to raise the motor from the oil pan as others have suggested.

Edited May 28, 2022 by RumblyXT

[Guest]

Spark plugs removal/install DO NOT REQUIRE RAISING MOTOR. Never ever.

 

You just need to rotate the coil packs for cylinder #3 & #4, that's all.

[RumblyXT]

^^Not referring to the Coil Packs, that is easy.. turn them 180 degrees and they come out I know.

 

I'm referring to the spark plugs themselves, particularly #2 and especially #4.

 

Just my opinion anyways. I respect everyone's way of doing it, but it doesn't take but a few minutes to raise the motor properly and working with more space before your hands end up like you have rheumatoid arthritis

[Infosecdad]

Unclemat was talking about the plugs.

 

You don't need to raise the engine to replace them, I don't because I feel that I would need to disconnect the downpipe from the mid-pipe or it'll strain the exhaust connections and I don't like messing with exhaust gaskets unless I really need to.

 

I disconnected the mid-pipe from the downpipe to replace the engine mounts, but to me it's not worth the risk of messing other stuff up to me to raise the engine for plugs.

[Guest]

What Infosecdad said. Absolutely no need to jack up the engine for plugs. Coil packs require that simple trick, plugs are trivial with proper socket (I use a swivel Snap-on socket that's perfect length for the purpose - can insert/remove the plug on the socket easily in all cylinders).

[RumblyXT]

I'm not saying the motor has to be raised for this service, you guys are way more experienced and have more practice, but I myself had a very hard time getting #2 out, I'd think #4 would be even more difficult because the frame tapers towards the rear and you end up with even less clearance.

 

All I'm saying is a simple wooden rig placed right in between the oil pan and the exhaust manifold, right onto the bottom of the block/service plugs themselves, NEVER on the oil pan. No need to remove exhaust and/or gaskets either. Something like this:

 

The rig would be placed pushing here:

 

Rig made out of a treated 2x4, not soft pine

 

This would not only be helpful to service the plugs, but also making the job of sealing the cam covers a lot easier since now you'd have more space, even allowing to torque the far bottom bolts, giving you a 1"-1.5" more of clearance to work there.

 

I am not advising anyone to do it this way. This is just my idea of how I would go about it myself.

Edited May 29, 2022 by RumblyXT

[Infosecdad]

I forgot to mention, to lift the engine, you also have to remove the TMIC and disconnect the "dog bone" on the top of the tranny. Then disconnect the engine mounts.

 

When lifting the engine, you are going to stress the exhaust downstream of the downpipe; depending on your exhaust connections it might cause a leak, it might not. Depends how far you are lifting, an inch or two might be ok, but remember that downpipe goes a long way back. An inch or two up front will be magnified at the end of the downpipe.

 

I've done the valve covers in place, it's not fun, but neither is raising the engine.

 

If you want to raise it from the front (your drawing skills are much better than mine), I'm not trying to tell you what you can and cannot do, I'm just trying to share my experiences. The right tools will make all the difference here.

[RumblyXT]

Granted yes, the TMIC would need to be removed and the engine support rod (dog bone) loosened.

 

Good point/reminder on the end of the exhaust being stretched, didn’t think of that. The inner axles joints/boots might stretch some too, but yes, it wouldn’t be more than a 2” lift at the most.

[authenticamd]

What Infosecdad said. Absolutely no need to jack up the engine for plugs. Coil packs require that simple trick, plugs are trivial with proper socket (I use a swivel Snap-on socket that's perfect length for the purpose - can insert/remove the plug on the socket easily in all cylinders).

 

 

Do you happen to know the part number for that Snap-on socket?

[Max Capacity]

RumblyXT, you're going to be making a lot more work for yourself lifting the engine.

 

Check post #832 for socket on socket.

 

I didn't use any special snap-on tools to do the job.

 

While doing the plugs, maybe tighten the valve cover bolts, while you're there, may stop the leak.

[RumblyXT]

RumblyXT, you're going to be making a lot more work for yourself lifting the engine.

 

Check post #832 for socket on socket.

 

I didn't use any special snap-on tools to do the job.

 

While doing the plugs, maybe tighten the valve cover bolts, while you're there, may stop the leak.

 

Yeah, I guess you guys are right. Maybe it's just me trying to look for the easy way out to work on that tight space. But it's like Infosecdad said, the right tool for the job..

 

Your reference to post #832 came just in time as I accidentally broke the brittle #3 lock tab when trying to remove it. Thanks

 

And thanks to Scooby2.5 for the info!

 

I can't recall exactly which one, but there's another connector in the wiring harness that also broke, wondering if the same solution from Outfront Motorsposrt would apply for other connectors.. is there a link to a company that provides new connectors replacement instead of having to replace the whole engine wire harness?

Edited May 30, 2022 by RumblyXT

[Guest]

Do you happen to know the part number for that Snap-on socket?

 

I don't, but I will try to remember to check and measure the length.

[RumblyXT]

I broke a few connectors on the wiring harness. Not sure if it's been posted before but found a company that seems to have just about any connector for the car. In case anybody else needs it:

 

https://connectorexperts.com/ag-1859248-subaru.html

[Infosecdad]

I broke a few connectors on the wiring harness. Not sure if it's been posted before but found a company that seems to have just about any connector for the car. In case anybody else needs it:

 

https://connectorexperts.com/ag-1859248-subaru.html

 

Good to know there are other options.

I usually have gone with https://iwireusa.com/ for Subaru related wiring/connectors.

[Tehnation]

I'm not saying the motor has to be raised for this service, you guys are way more experienced and have more practice, but I myself had a very hard time getting #2 out, I'd think #4 would be even more difficult because the frame tapers towards the rear and you end up with even less clearance.

 

All I'm saying is a simple wooden rig placed right in between the oil pan and the exhaust manifold, right onto the bottom of the block/service plugs themselves, NEVER on the oil pan. No need to remove exhaust and/or gaskets either. Something like this:

 

The rig would be placed pushing here:

[ATTACH]296298[/ATTACH]

 

Rig made out of a treated 2x4, not soft pine

[ATTACH]296299[/ATTACH]

 

This would not only be helpful to service the plugs, but also making the job of sealing the cam covers a lot easier since now you'd have more space, even allowing to torque the far bottom bolts, giving you a 1"-1.5" more of clearance to work there.

 

I am not advising anyone to do it this way. This is just my idea of how I would go about it myself.

 

I wouldn't jack it up there, those 2 bolts are for your oil pump, and the oil pump is attached to the crankshaft. Jacking up the entire motor on those skimpy little oil pump bolts and the crankshaft probably isn't a good idea. It will probably work but I just don't like messing with things like the oil pump, I would rather put a piece of would under the oil pan and jack from there.

[Tehnation]

Good to know there are other options.

I usually have gone with https://iwireusa.com/ for Subaru related wiring/connectors.

 

I took a look at that site and connectors are like 90 dollars. I would stick with iwireusa lol. They know exactly whats going on with out cars and you can get them pre pinned, un pinned, pigtails or whatever floats your boat.

 

100 dollars for a mass flow sensor connector..... ahhhh lol, I got it for like 30 bucks shipped on iwire.

[RumblyXT]

It's true, they're asking for way too much.

 

iwireusa is definitely the place to get them from.