ibr_adam09 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I went ahead and got the H&R's. same website, $200 shipped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperhawkLGT Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Epics aren't on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Epics = Eibach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperhawkLGT Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Oh shit, I have them and didn't even know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWSPECB Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Eibach ended their pro-kit sort of. They just re-branded it as Epic's (at least that's my understanding) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STIdarksideR Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/e/e/eelgt_intsall_1.jpg http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/e/e/eelgt_install1.jpg http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/e/e/eelgt_install2.jpghttp://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/e/e/eelgt_install3.jpg Konis + Epic Engineering Springs Rota Tarmac II, 18x7.5 e48 wrapped in Toyo T1-R's 225/40-18 Was thinking of getting these rims as a winter setup. Good to know they clear the brembos as well. What is the gap between the rim and caliper? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Do it before install. Or, cut a small portion of the metal out and make the circle hole larger. Much easier to do prior to install. Was going to say, why would you torque them AFTER they were in the car? In the literally 1000s of shocks/strut installs we've done since 2000, we've never once did them in the car. -Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg%5Dhttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 I tend to double check once they are installed in the car. Just because I am that ocd. But they get torqued before install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Was thinking of getting these rims as a winter setup. Good to know they clear the brembos as well. What is the gap between the rim and caliper? Thanks Very little clearance between the face of the caliper and the backside of the spoke. Plenty of clearance to the inner wall of the wheel. If you need actual number let me know and I may check for you. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark34 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Great walkthru and thanks for the heads up on the THMotorsports code. Mine should be here tomorrow. When you guys are using a washer as a spacer with the Spec B tops, it's just a regular washer from the hardware store or was it a real thick one? Just want to make sure I have all the parts I need ready for the build up. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Great walkthru and thanks for the heads up on the THMotorsports code. Mine should be here tomorrow. When you guys are using a washer as a spacer with the Spec B tops, it's just a regular washer from the hardware store or was it a real thick one? Just want to make sure I have all the parts I need ready for the build up. Thanks. I used a Thick one from Lowes that was Stainless Steel. You need to make sure the diameter is correct on it as well, match it up with the conical washer if possible. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Do the spec.B top hats provide any benefit? I have a spec.B, but am kinda planning on switching to regular LGT top hats when I do my Koni install to avoid the extra "lift" in the front. Can you offer any advice on that? MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Slightly firmer rubber (possibly), much larger internal bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Slightly firmer rubber (possibly), much larger internal bearing. +1 I went this route on my LGT and they felt better and had more longevity than the originals. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Just did a 900 mile road trip this weekend and this setup rocks on the mountain back roads of WV (can't discount a proper performance tire as well). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I was able to torque mine down with the wheels on the ground without a problem. Getting those rears off was a pita, my electric impact didn't budge em Took brute strength, pb blaster, and lots of yelling and swearing to break the bolts loose. Thats where I am tonight.. had sprayed them a few times past few days, still cant get them to budge with the impact and don't have it high enough to get a long cheater on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thats where I am tonight.. had sprayed them a few times past few days, still cant get them to budge with the impact and don't have it high enough to get a long cheater on it. Do you have a long extension? I did mine on jack stands on a lower setting. The socket extension allowed me to sit on the ground, put my foot on the extension as a brace, and then pull back on it with my upper body. Still took a little bit but eventually they broke loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Ya thats one option, was hoping to get a cheater bar heading out the back but can't with the angle... will probably rap it with electric impact again, then get it higher and go for cheater again. Are you guys attacking from the inside bolt, or outside nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 If I had a helper, I would have impacted from the inside with them holding a breaker on the outside. Solo I tried it in and out, finally broke the outside loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shotokan1509 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Did you have to remove brake disc or backing plate to get at it from outside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingbang Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 No, I had a wobble socket extension. Yeah, it's not really possible to do without a wobble now that I think about it. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Are you using a breaker bar braced against the ground on the nut and the gun on the bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted October 9, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 9, 2012 Try breaker bar with a jack pushing it up if you can get at it like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prelude Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Try breaker bar with a jack pushing it up if you can get at it like that this is how I did mine. http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/12koni/DSC_0948.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibr_adam09 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I had to use an impact from work while someone held the beaker bar. even the air impact barely took it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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