m sprank Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 There is some angle to it. The angle is what correctly applies pressure so that the spring locks between the perches and does not spin when you turn the wheel. If the two holes are not facing the outside of the car, the springs will spin when the car is turning resulting in an unpleasant noise and some unwanted steering feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Okay cool then i do have it right. I will post pics of the fronts tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 my koni front with epic springs. Rears come in Monday. Also got the GTspec Ball joint & tie rod end to go on after about 200 miles and then get a alignment done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Looks proper from the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Looks good to me and that is a nice blue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Our "shop" set is coated in truck bed liner coating, lol. I will take a pic. They are going on a car in a few hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwelna Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Lol. That is nothing. I mean nothing. I have a 600ft lb torque wrench. 1 inch drive. When it does not work (ie Honda crank pulleys) that is when I break out what we call "Earthquake". My 1 inch drive 1/2inch fed air impact gun. 1700ftlbs of torque. Has yet to meet a bolt it can not break free. Or a socket it can't break? For 1/2" drive 780 is pretty good, but yeah if you need some real ogre power 1" drive is where it's at. -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I have proven once again that you do not need air tools (I did my rear bolt with only a breaker bar and a 1/2" ratchet... and a 4' cheater. I am submitting my Subaru assembly specialist application now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 My 600lb 1" drive bar is a good 4 feet long, if not more. Lol. When I need more leverage, I use a length of pipe another 4 feet long. It is ridiculous, hence the 1" drive air gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 There's no way I'd do it again without an impact gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 pix of the "shop" set of Konis. When you come in for a Koni install, this is what you get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfred_Buchi Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Man, those look awesome with bed liner. I would like to trade you for my dirty stockers and uninstalled koni's. Deal? I'm excited to install these this weekend. I'm glad I found this thread, what a great writeup. Wish I had found a donor set so I could get it started sooner. Anything different on a wagon or are the steps exactly the same? I've searched and I'm pretty sure I don't need any spacers or anything with stock springs right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Same exact steps for the wagon, other than the work required to expose the top of the rear shock mounts. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPU1 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Those do look nice M Sprank, I'd stick with Black (Stealth). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have them sand blasted clean, then I spray them. Adhesion is awesome on the blasted metal (just clean with mineral spirits first). Great protection from the elements and they look nice. I even like the texture, it hides imperfections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Same exact steps for the wagon, other than the work required to expose the top of the rear shock mounts. Take your time doing this: remove all trunk liner pieces, then proceed to pop the side panels off using a long tape-wrapped screw driver, starting at the D-pillar/liftgate sides. I wasn't able to get the side panels off (something around the seat belt constrains them). I wore long sleeve shirt and reached under the panel while propping it out to do the loosening/tightening/torquing. If you don't have a deep 17mm socket, do get one before this. I had to make one up using electrical tape and my shallow socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Installed my Konis this weekend and can't get the nut on top of the front strut torqued down all the way without the strut spinning. I thought it wasn't supposed to spin with the weight of the car on it. What's my solution? I have a pass through wrench but it doesn't leave enough room in the center to get on the Koni smaller 6 point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Installed my Konis this weekend and can't get the nut on top of the front strut torqued down all the way without the strut spinning. I thought it wasn't supposed to spin with the weight of the car on it. What's my solution? I have a pass through wrench but it doesn't leave enough room in the center to get on the Koni smaller 6 point. You need a pass through to do it correctly. Back in the day we used to physically hold the piston while hitting the nut with an electric impact. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 I'm not sure what pass through would let me still get to the inside nut. Maybe a box wrench with a severe angle. Think I'm going to stop over a friends and hit it with an impact. It's on there enough to get everything in place but clunks over bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Go get a cheap Kobalt set from Lowes. A set of "thru" sockets and a ratchet (the ones with a hole in the middle of the socket so you can put another tool "thru" the socket). Then use a standard 1/4" drive deep socket and ratchet to hold the "nut" on the end of the shaft while using your "thru" socket set to torque the nut.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I have the kobalt set. Didn't realize I could get my 1/4" 9mm thru it until I tried today. Couldn't get the nut any tighter. Maybe its tight enough but I only see about 3 threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 You are using the OEM strut top mounts right? Not the Group N or Spec B ones? You remembered to install the Conical Washer? Clunking like that when the bolt is as tight as it can be, sometimes means you've bottomed out the nut on the threads, but with the SpecB/GroupN mounts they are thinner so you need a washer in there in addition to the conical washer. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Yes OEM top mounts. Conical washer is in, small diameter side up. I dont notice any clunking so maybe I am ok. When I try to tighten any more, the top mount and spring want to turn with it. I ride on some twisty, bumpy roads to work. The ride to work this morning felt like all the streets were repaved! Loving the Konis so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Two holes in upper spring perch are facing towards outside of car, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Yes. Holes are facing out. Springs seems to be seated properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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