Streetlegal Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Outstanding, thanks. There is a 2005, 2008 and 2009 file. Am I correct in thinking the 2007MY is most similar to the 2005? I just took the one out of my 07 last night. Ours is under the intake manifold and a little harder to get to. I took some pics since I couldn't find any showing the 07 location. Here's the stupid filter. Mine wasn't terribly clogged but it definitely wasn't clear. Maybe 40% blocked http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_191155_zpsqtrjeqj3.jpg Here's where the banjo bolt is http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_191211_zpsbi217jmg.jpg http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_191208_zpsb92vmrv2.jpg This is the stupid air solenoid that goes along with our cool air pump that we got in 07. Still couldn't get it out. Looks like I have to take the turbo out to get it off... http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_191214_zpsjkteqqrn.jpg Also, here is the small annoying bolt that people refer to that holds the fuel lines to the intake manifold. It is underneath the manifold and a 10mm. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_192253_zpsq4x17owk.jpg And this is why we can't get the intake manifold off. Subaru decided it would be a good idea to snake the fuel lines through the manifold. From what it looks like the only way to take the manifold off is to take the fuel lines with it or just take the TGVs and everything off together. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150414_192313_zpsktw7q71u.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I have found it is easier to just unbolt the TGV's from the heads and lift everything off in one piece. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I have found it is easier to just unbolt the TGV's from the heads and lift everything off in one piece. Yea that's what other people suggested but I didn't do that because I wasn't sure if the TGV gaskets were reusable. Next time I'll do it that way lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Tang Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I just took the one out of my 07 last night. Ours is under the intake manifold and a little harder to get to. I took some pics since I couldn't find any showing the 07 location. Thanks for all that man...I really appreciate it. I'll have to get on that right away. So is that particular the banjo filter the only one we need to be concerned about when it comes to keeping oil flowing well to the turbo? Are the other ones less consequential? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 The other banjo would keep your drivers side cam from adjusting (the banjo feeds the variable cam timing OCV). The one shown above feeds turbo and passenger cam adjustment valve. Sent from my XT1028 * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Streetlegal Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 The other banjo would keep your drivers side cam from adjusting (the banjo feeds the variable cam timing OCV). The one shown above feeds turbo and passenger cam adjustment valve. Sent from my XT1028 That's what I figured. Problem is it is right behind the timing cover and wont come off unless you pull all that crap off. I pulled my driver OCV over the weekend cleaned and reoiled it and I haven't had any issues again yet. It was clean and moved freely when I took it out initially. I plan to do the timing belt and all that this weekend. This time I'll pull the TGV's and everything all as one. I'll take pics along the way again since the 07 changed some things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevberd Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Can someone please advise to me which solenoids are my (ocv,vvt, avcs). It looks like I have 4. I've been throwing cel for P0021-camshaft position timing over advanced bank two P0018-crankshaft position-camshaft position correlation bank2 sensorA P0016-crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation bank1 sensorA P0011-intake(A) camshaft position timing-over advanced(Bank1) Also randomly throws cel for misfire on all 6 without these codes. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B13_00601176.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Can someone please advise to me which solenoids are my (ocv,vvt, avcs). It looks like I have 4. I've been throwing cel for P0021-camshaft position timing over advanced bank two P0018-crankshaft position-camshaft position correlation bank2 sensorA P0016-crankshaft position - camshaft position correlation bank1 sensorA P0011-intake(A) camshaft position timing-over advanced(Bank1) Also randomly throws cel for misfire on all 6 without these codes. http://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B13_00601176.png Pull your timing covers and see if your timing marks all line up. Also see how much slack there is in your belt. I was getting P0018 two weeks ago and even though my timing marks lined up, there was so much slack in the belt I was abel to remove it without removing any pulleys. Lots of slack in the belt or timing being off can cause all of those codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevberd Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Pull your timing covers and see if your timing marks all line up. Also see how much slack there is in your belt. I was getting P0018 two weeks ago and even though my timing marks lined up, there was so much slack in the belt I was abel to remove it without removing any pulleys. Lots of slack in the belt or timing being off can cause all of those codes. It's an 09 3.0r. No timing belt. Has timing chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 OK, so look for that gold link on the crank and and the different colored links on the cam sprockets. And make sure the keyways are at the 12:00 position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruNation Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I just finished putting in 2 new Oil Flow Control Valves (OCVs), and wanted to add the following for search fodder also since this thread helped me out. I bought mine from subaruparts.com for $99 each, saved ~$70 on the set with free shipping. They were both the same part number for the 06 legacy and you might as well do them both if you are going to do it at all. Part# 10921AA020 When removing / installing these.. feel free to pop the hose that is right behind where the OCV slides into. They are breather hoses (same spot on opposing sides) and pulling them off while you install will give you another couple of inches to work with so you don't need to bend anything. Lightly tapping with a hammer / screwdriver will help also to get them out, and adding a small amount of oil to the new ones when replacing will help them slide in easier too. These will also need to be installed in the same way you pull them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevberd Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 Since cleaning my VVL solenoids, my mpg have gone from 18.9 to 22.8! Still acting up a little so I should probably replace them. Also car now downshifts when it should. Most of the time. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mviehweg Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 Hey guys. Just replaced my passenger side OCV in my 06 outback XT with 120k miles on it. Like many who posted before it was idling really rough and occasionally stalling out at stop lights. Threw codes p1312, p0011 & p0301 multiple times. Seems to be idling and running a lot smoother since I replaced it. Went and ran a bunch of errands in stop and go traffic right after I finished up. So far so good. Idles a lot smoother and no repeat codes yet. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 Hey guys. Just replaced my passenger side OCV in my 06 outback XT with 120k miles on it. Like many who posted before it was idling really rough and occasionally stalling out at stop lights. Threw codes p1312, p0011 & p0301 multiple times. Seems to be idling and running a lot smoother since I replaced it. Went and ran a bunch of errands in stop and go traffic right after I finished up. So far so good. Idles a lot smoother and no repeat codes yet. Thanks! Welcome! Good Job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyt88 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Cross posting this, as I would like to get the car back on the road ASAP.. I took my passenger side ocv off, cleaned it with wd40 but I got the impression that it should rotate/move. Nothing on mine moves by hand. Also any tips for getting the drivers side out on an 08? I can't even get to the boLT with the oil filler neck there. Luckily for now the passenger side has the code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 You could move the oil filler neck. It's just a 10mm bolt and then it wiggles. Also, why do you think that the OCV should rotate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyt88 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 You could move the oil filler neck. It's just a 10mm bolt and then it wiggles. Also, why do you think that the OCV should rotate? People were posting up about cleaning it and making sure it moves freely. It gave me the impression there was some moving parts that I should inspect while I had it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 There's a piston/plunger inside that needs to be able to move freely, but the OCV itself shouldn't rotate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyt88 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 There's a piston/plunger inside that needs to be able to move freely, but the OCV itself shouldn't rotate Thanks for the clarity. I will grab a small screw driver and see if I can move it back and forth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 ^. Yeah, it is spring loaded in there IIRC. But with a screw driver, it should move freely. If it is rubbing excessively, then time to change. Also do you have banjo bolt filters on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyt88 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 ^. Yeah, it is spring loaded in there IIRC. But with a screw driver, it should move freely. If it is rubbing excessively, then time to change. Also do you have banjo bolt filters on your car? I do not know if the 08s had them or where I would find the banjo bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamon234 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Great thread. I threw the p0021 code (right after my turbo blew) after i replaced the turbo and removed the banjo bolts the code disappeared. I was told not to worry about it. 3,200 miles later the code came back! car wasnt running to rough and wasn't stalling But thanks to this thread i pulled them, cleaned them with brakleen and wd40 and put them back in. Code went away! yay! A tip for those of you with turbo failure. Mine was "catastrophic turbo failure" according to the dealership. They told me the engine was totaled and needed to be replaced with the turbo. I stuck a big harbor freight magnet on the bottom on my oil pan after putting in a new turbo myself. Ran the car about 1k and then did an oil change and pulled the pan. I cleaned a bunch of tiny flakes and magnetic sludge off of where the magnet was. Subaru still tells me my engine will fail because of the turbo. But everyday i hear her purr like a kitten is another day they can kiss my @$$. I also installed a magnetic drain plug for kicks and giggles. Maybe they are right and it will fail. but almost 4k miles i wasn't suppose to get so far makes my decision totally justified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Your only going to catch ferrous materials with the magnets. Non ferrous even with short OCI will still be in the system. Suggestions have been to pull the pan and clear or replace...and just replace the oil cooler. Good luck to you regardless. I had issues with rough idle and stalling that were attributed to the OVCS going south after around 120K miles. They should be replaced at the 100K interval working or not IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I stuck a big harbor freight magnet on the bottom on my oil pan after putting in a new turbo myself. Although this is not catching all the debris, it is still pretty smart! That's a good trick. Do you have a way to log? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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