MasAyinde

Looking for an aftermarket 3" mid/Y pipe that will bolt up to the stock mufflers. Let me know what you have! Ideally looking for Perrin as I had that on my LGT and loved the sound of it, but other brands work also.

Looking for an aftermarket TMIC and stock mufflers for 05-09 OBXT. I’m in Oregon and would pay shopping as long as it isn’t crazy expensive.

Forgot to update this. I found a 2008 OBXT with just under 200k and a 34k mile engine with tons of new parts. Appreciate the offers though

I'll take the GS gaskets and steering rack bushings

Sweet, let me know if/when it falls through. I'm ready to send payment

Cooling mod sold?

i figured that was why it was happening. What I'd looking for is any tweaking customization people have done to get it to line up. Some of the pics here have it lining up quite well

How did people in this thread get their double din to line up perfectly with the other trim pieces? Mine seems to be tilted by about 1/4" despite all of the mounting holes being dead on.

Is there anyone around that has done this? Curious to know how difficult it was or if there are any special considerations that need to be taken into account or any custom work. I know the OEM Navi fits up there, so I'm hoping it's just a matter of getting that center console part.

Old thread, but how difficult was it to install the head unit in the cubby? Any tips?

Looking to get back into the Subaru game and it's time for a wagon. Working on post count to post over on the outback forum, but figured I would post here also as I've seen some great cars pop up here before. I'm in Oregon but I'm willing to fly somewhere and drive back. Let me know what you have/know of for sale!

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=267067&goto=newpost

Thanks! There is a really sweet spot with the tone around 3300 RPM that makes it sound like a Porsche.

Perrin ELH, CNT 44mm EWG UP, Tsudo DP, Perrin mid/Y, stock cans: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlgH8vTuERI]YouTube - LGT with Perrin/Stock combo[/ame]

If anyone is interested, I'm soon going to have a black center console, "wing" trim and arm rest up for sale. Basically everything that gets replaced when going with the EDM console

I also have a catted DP and this mod works fine with it.

Yes, exactly

You are missing something. Reread the part about getting your car ready for this mod

Remember, that wheel is used on ALL 08-14 Imprezas and ALL 08-12 Foresters. It will work. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/legacy/Leg08gtsteeringwhl1.JPG

So you're 5EAT? The shifters should screw into the new wheel, and the harness for them can still be used. You'll have to use your old plastic backing plate.

Is that even real snow in your profile picture?

I do some sit-ups and push-ups to wake myself up, but your morning routine of cocaine and loud music sounds interesting also.

For how easy this mod is, you're going to go broke real fast owning this car if you're rather pay someone to fix it than fix it yourself. I had no soldering experience when I first did it and it worked perfectly.

Look at you. You're just like Dominic Toretto, living your life 1/4 mile at a time. Let's be honest, at those speeds, who can afford to take your hand off the steering wheel to change the radio? Also, who wants to wait around until a Spec B gets totaled or shell out almost $400 for a brand new steering wheel? That's why I am here for you. I am here for you with solutions because I love you. Now, you too can rock this steering wheel in your 2005 LGT with working audio and cruise controls. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2469/4063087396_9fc5ecfc8a.jpg But MasAyinde, how can I buy one of the numerous newer steering wheels on ebay and get it to work in my 05-07 LGT? Hush, my child. For you to accept the awesomeness of this mod, first your car must be ready to accept the awesomeness of steering wheel audio controls. Follow this guide: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-steering-wheel-radio-controls-26232.html Good, now your car is ready. Is your body ready? I hope so. MasAyinde, what will I need to do this? STFU, my child. Besides what is outlined in the aforementioned guide, you need: - Superglue - TINY flathead screwdriver (think eyeglass or jewelry) - Four small paperclips or pins - Steering wheel from 08-09 Legacy, 08-12 Forester or 08-14 WRX/STi (some of these steering wheels have more controls such as bluetooth/SI drive and display select.) You can remove these if you want by unscrewing them and going without them, or you can leave them in for the look even though they won't be funtional. (lol ricer.) In all seriousness, I am working on a way to get the multi-display select and SI drive buttons working in a 2007 LGT. - Airbag from the same range of cars. Let us begin. Look at these steering wheel controls. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i126/sdcerreta/Subio/SWAudioControlSwitch12.jpg The plug is different from your measly 05-07 plug, because the clock spring is different. You have two plugs; a 5 pin one for SWAC and a 3 pin one for cruise. This is an 8 pin plug. That's right, 3+5=8. I know you can see what's going on here. We just need to move some plugs around and we'll be set. Let's be honest, you're removing that white connector and you're not going to be able to sell it for anything, so who cares if it gets destroyed. There is a flap on the bottom that needs to pop out by putting the screwdriver in the rectangular tabs and prying up, and then the front of the connector separates from the main part of the connector. Then you need to take the tiny screwdriver and pop up the tabs holding the connectors in from the front. What you end up with is this: http://i.imgur.com/Y0NTvRo.jpg Now let's go to the green connector coming from your current steering wheel. You should only have one wire in it. This one we can't afford to damage. There's a little flap on the bottom that needs to be pushed to the front of the connector and then popped up. Now it's ready to get penetrated by the new steering wheel's wires. Take the red, black, white and blue wires and connect them into the green connector like this: http://i.imgur.com/wTHBhyW.jpg You'll notice that they are loose, and this is no good. Now it's time to take your 4 tiny paperclips or pins and put them GENTLY into the connector to anchor the wires, like so: http://i.imgur.com/LrZc9Kg.jpg While these wires are anchored, put a dab of superglue in each of the 5 individual housings for each wire where they insert. Leave the paper clips in while it cures. Put the little flap thingy back. Steering wheel audio is done! Now cruise: Unscrew your cruise control stalk from your existing steering wheel. Or don't, whatever. I'm not your mom. You now have 2 options. You can cut the connector off leaving a little more than an inch of wiring and splice it into the new steering wheel controls, or you can pull connectors apart again and redo wiring. Either way, the old wires should go into the 3 pin connector like this: http://i.imgur.com/hlWOwUy.jpg Holy shitsnacks, you're done! Plug the two connectors in, plug in the airbag connectors, attach the ground from the green connector to the airbag, put the steering wheel and airbag back on, tighten the T30 screws, reconnect the battery, and enjoy your new hotness. TL;DR: http://i.imgur.com/mmbIQYj.jpg

If you have some experience, clutch is easy. Don't let people intimidate you about it. You'll need a transmission jack, though. One way gives you a lot of room but involves popping the axles out of the wheel hubs; the way that gives you less room just involves moving the transmission back so you'll have like 8 inches of room. I've been able to do it both ways before. 1. Remove intake stuff so you can see the transmission. 2. Undo pitch stop mount. 3. Remove as many engine-tranny bolts as you can from on top and undo all the electrical connectors on the tranny. 4. (Optional) Break both front axle nuts free 5. (Optional) Mark orientation of top strut bolts as these are the camber adjustment bolts. Now remove top and bottom bolts. 6. (Optional) Swing hub down to pull axle out of hub. You may need to unbolt the brake line bracket. 7. Remove 4 bolts that connect driveshaft and differential. 8. Remove two bolts that hold up the middle section of the driveshaft 9. Support transmission with a transmission jack and remove the trans mount H frame. 10. Pry transmission away from engine. If you took the optional steps, you can now wheel it out from under the car. If not, you should be able to get a good 8-10 inches of room, especially when the engine tilts forward. 11. Remove clutch and flywheel. A screwdriver through the engine block to hold the flywheel in place helps a lot. 12. Installation is reverse of removal. Benefit of doing it these two ways is that there's no need to drain the transmission fluid.