bmx045 Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I shaved all those tabs off in order for the box to fit better. The tabs are nowhere near important even with a stock setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Happy days. It should arrive in time for next weekend. Must get myself a dremel for the trimming I need to do. Is there any point in wrapping the piping close to the turbo? Or would some high temp paint do the same job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted August 14, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 14, 2011 Must get myself a dremel for the trimming I need to do. I used tin snips, but a utility knife would probably work too. Is there any point in wrapping the piping close to turbo? Or would some high temp paint do the same job? There is a point, but it's not 100% necessary IMO. High temp paint will do nothing except change the color of the pipes. You'd need a ceramic coating in order to reduce temps without wrapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 I used tin snips, but a utility knife would probably work too. There is a point, but it's not 100% necessary IMO. High temp paint will do nothing except change the color of the pipes. You'd need a ceramic coating in order to reduce temps without wrapping. I was thinking that. Might check locally and just get hot side ceramic coated and cold side similar colour. Hopefully it turns out OK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Sorry for all the questions but how is the core secured in place is the crash bar the only way it is held in place with a few pieces of hose to stop it from rattling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 it rests between the bumper beam and the vertical supports, it's a snug fit, it's not going anywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 There are no worries on the core, but I do get some rattling from the piping. Every few months, I have to zip tie some more cut pieces of hose to keep the piping from rattling on something else: brake master cylinder, battery, engine, tow hooks, frame. Just when I think I've got everything done, a zip tie fails and I have to re-do it. Does anyone have any better methods of keeping the piping from rattling? I'm thinking of having my mechanic fab up some brackets. Yes, all the connections and clamps are tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 ^^^^ same probs for me. Use a hose clamp on the cut pieces of hose instead of zipties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 got start on the install as soon as i got home from work, stripped out old Hyperflow tmic and airbox. HAs anyone else managed to fit this kit with a clocked sti style turbo in? Mine currently looks like this: http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/desperatedano/P1010981.jpg I'll need to loosen all the tab bolts and probably remove the coolant pipe for to un-clock it. Will i loose much coolant when i take that pipe off the turbo? I think ill need to unclock it to its stock position and try that. since mine is a RHD i might have problems with the brake fluid reservoir since its on the left in the engine bay i hope i can make the hot side piping work, might need some modification there. The rest looks ok. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/desperatedano/P1010980.jpg Only got first throttle bidy pipe into position before the sunlight disappeared on me. I can't wait to have a place with a garage so im not at the mercy of the elements for any install jobs like this! http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/desperatedano/P1010985.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 jesus, sti style pointing up? but yes, the kit includes adapter pipes for sti style normal clocked and lgt/08 wrx+ fitments. regardless, with all the included pipes, you should be able to fabricate a fit, using a coupler, or hell, shaving off the flange for the stock lgt style fitment, or buying a 90 degree silicone bend pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 jesus, sti style pointing up? but yes, the kit includes adapter pipes for sti style normal clocked and lgt/08 wrx+ fitments. Yes i know! i had to do that to be able to keep the legacy style TMIC for the Hyperflow one, i should have went FMIC when i got the vf36. should be fun trying to clock it back into its stock position! With the V3 kit how many pipes in total should i be using for STI style turbo setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 it'll be a mix and match, the pipe you already put on will be that size all the way down to the fmic, you need two more pieces there. the other side is mostly 2" (or is it 2.5)...whatever....smaller pipes, you'll notice the one that will need to fit between the airbox going from the fmic to the turbo. Get the bigger stuff setup then see what you have left to connect to the turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 im sure ill figure it out in the morning. hopefully not too much custom work required on the hotside piping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 so i didnt even get as far as worrying about the hotside connections. Seems like there is an extra inch or two of space behind the USDM bumper compared to the tiny jdm bumper. there is absolutely no physical way to put the core behind my crash bar and then secure the crash bar in place closest it gets is about 1/2 inch on right side and inch of on left side. I spent a good 2-3 hours trying to get crash bar back on the car but its just physically impossible. Only thing that might help is cutting out the radiator support bar but then it would rub off the radiator core. I stupidly trimmed all the bits of plastic and metal off before i measured tried to make the core fit behing crash bar, hopefully it doesn't cause any issues http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/desperatedano/P1020007.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3/desperatedano/P1020012.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 wowwwwwww. well. you could just remove the beam all together like every other fmic kit, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 **** that I would rather deal with the heatsoak of the hyperfow tmic than remove the crash bar! Need to sell the kit now to someone in US. That's the last time I buy a non jdm specific part for my car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted August 20, 2011 Author Share Posted August 20, 2011 Sorry, it didn't work out for you. The kit was never tried on a JDM setup and we weren't sure how it would fit. Have you thought about getting a USDM beam and triming it to fit your JDM beam? That is what I'm going to do to install my JDM Tommy Kaira front clip. From what I read its not too hard. I plan on doing this the week and I could let you know how it turns out. Bryan Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyDan Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 Sorry, it didn't work out for you. The kit was never tried on a JDM setup and we weren't sure how it would fit. Have you thought about getting a USDM beam and triming it to fit your JDM beam? That is what I'm going to do to install my JDM Tommy Kaira front clip. From what I read its not too hard. I plan on doing this the week and I could let you know how it turns out. Bryan Ye, i knew it was a big risk trying it. I didn't think the crash beam would be the problem though. At least i know how everything comes apart now. Might hang onto the kit so until i hear how you get on trimming a USDM beam to fit the JDM bumper skin. Let me know how you get on with that. Ill hang onto it for now. I have car back together now with Hyperflow TMIC so hopefully i can get it leak free. Must do another boost leak test to see how connections are this time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted August 20, 2011 Share Posted August 20, 2011 gotta pay to play, and it's not always about paying $$$$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 We have kits in stock and more color options. Follow the link and find your color. http://tiger-coatings.com/index.php?id=1295&L=10%2520order%2520by%25209999999-- Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.B Dream Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 There are no worries on the core, but I do get some rattling from the piping. Every few months, I have to zip tie some more cut pieces of hose to keep the piping from rattling on something else: brake master cylinder, battery, engine, tow hooks, frame. Just when I think I've got everything done, a zip tie fails and I have to re-do it. Does anyone have any better methods of keeping the piping from rattling? I'm thinking of having my mechanic fab up some brackets. Yes, all the connections and clamps are tight. ^^^^ same probs for me. Use a hose clamp on the cut pieces of hose instead of zipties. So the rattling actually wasn't from the pipes this time. I've got every place where the pipes could rattle taken care of with zip-tied cut heater hose. The rattling I've been heading was the downpipe hitting the mounting tab on the trans. The bolt must have backed out at some point. So I guess what I'm saying is bump for a great FMIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 Thanks Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I fixed my rattling by manhandling the throttle body pipe and the vertical pipe together, this gives enough room to clear the brake master cyl, I need a smaller oil fill cap though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_sheen Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 i gossa quession... is there gonna be any clearance issues on the hot side for me? im running an avo 420 with a cobb heatshield and it doesnt look like theres as much room as there is in the pictures from the first bend off the turbo. mine should be here this week, figured id ask now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 You should have no problem. Is the cobb much bigger than stock? Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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