StoplightAssassin Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 you need to be careful replacing the torx bolts with the hex head bolts. The hex head bolts DO NOT work with the Spec LWFW, at least on the 05 models. There was not enough room to get a socket on the bolt. I don't have thin walled sockets, but there was hardly any room and I don't think they would fit either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I got quoted 350 in labor to have a mechanic do mine. After 5 days working by myself, $100 in stall fees, and 3 stripped flywheel bolts I decided it was time to let someone else finish the job. This is not for the faint of heart or anyone short on time. I've changed the flywheel on a couple of Subies and if you don't have the bit straight you will strip the bolt. Good luck Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 The shop that replaced my stock clutch didn't have the Torx Plus (and I asked twice to make sure that they had the "Plus and was told they did) and stripped every one of the bolts off and had to drill them out. I went with the 06+WRX SMFW so I just got the hex bolts from FB at the same time that I got the rest of the ACT Street HD clutch parts from them. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Anyone know what flywheel works with the ClutchMaster 300 setup? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I have the stock '06+ wrx flywheel on mine. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDRum Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Just got it done for $840 from a local tranny shop including the clutch kit/parts etc. 5 houras labor...which is approx 25% less time that'd take ye olde DRum :)also needed a new half shaft (borked cv boot) and two new half shaft seals since they're prone to leakage. Parts on the shaft and seals was $150 and they didn't charge me anything to put them in since everything was off anyways. Not a bad deal, and the shop was real good to work with. I'd like to attempt this someday with air tools and a tranny jack...on a car I don't need to drive to work tomorrow . DRum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 So they had the Subaru adapters to pull off the differential end covers and replace the internal axle seals? Without it, the diff can get completely out of alignment. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiDaddy Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) OK, I've read all this thread, watched the video, & now have the trans seperated and the clutch out of the car. Thanks to all for this great info. I'm replacing the FW & complete clutch assy. TorxPlus T50 arrives today; how do you hold the flywheel from turning w/out the Subaru tool? As to trans/turbo clearance; has anyone judiciously filed away a small porting of the trans where it interferes, or maybe filed away enough to make a heavy chamfer to ease installation? The case seems plenty strong enough.... One of my CV axle seal springs came out; any tips on getting it back in correctly w/out pulling (likely damaging) the seal? Thanks. Edited October 17, 2011 by SkiDaddy typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Buy a new seal, pry the old one out with a screwdriver. Use a flat peiece of 2x4 to seat the new one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 You can keep the FW stationary using a flathead screwdriver. I had a piece of metal wire sitting around and made a band which I looped around the pegs on the fw and the engine block. I would not file down the turbo. It'll require some patience, but the trans will come out. A second set of eyes is a great asset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiDaddy Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I ended up using a breaker bar & socket on the crank pulley. I was worried some of the flywheel bolts were REALLY tight & might break the crank bolt loose, but it worked out OK. Some of them were tighter than 70 foot-pounds! The access holes for the flywheel bolts didn't line up, had to use a hammer & drift to shift the alignment slightly. I wasn't going to grind the turbo, but the transmission bellhousing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtainsofdeath Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Great set of videos scruit; I have watched them many times. I am actually changing from a DMFW to a SMFW and it looks like the SMFW is shallower than the DMFW. Does anybody have any guidance as to what adjustments need to be made in the clutch travel after I install the clutch? Also, I am a little worried about stripping out a FW bolt or breaking one off. I do have the Torx+50 bit, but is there anything that I can do to minimize the propensity for snapping off a bolt head or stripping one out? One final question: in the shop manual that I have, it tells me that I need to find the "0" mark on the FW and the "0" mark on the PP and ensure that they are at least 120deg out of alignment. My PP doesn't seem to have one of these marks. How bad is it if these "0" marks are not lined up exactly? I am new to the forum and would appreciate any information that anyone can provide on these questions. Hopefully, I'll be able to help others out on here in the future. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 -No adjustment is necessary. -Have extra flywheel bolts. Be very careful taking them off. They are dry so they shouldn't seize, but they will be very tight. Even if you get them off you DO NOT want to put mangled T+50 bolts back on, because they will _never_ come off with that much torque. I almost messed one of them up, but luckily it came off. I could only get 4 WRX (4, WTF?) from one of the 5-6 local dealers in the area, so I picked the 4 best T+50 and mixed them with 4 new hex bolts. Good enough. -The 0 marks are only for balance past the precision of the balancer. By not aligning them you can cancel out (vs adding) the partial imbalance of the parts. It is not a big deal if you can't find them, they are probably not there. -flare wrench works great for stopping the flywheel, almost the same thing as the subaru ST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 As to trans/turbo clearance; has anyone judiciously filed away a small porting of the trans where it interferes, or maybe filed away enough to make a heavy chamfer to ease installation? The case seems plenty strong enough.... It's tight but I didn't see a problem. And I have/had a larger turbo in there. As long as you go straight in and out it should be fine. Worst case loosen the turbo mounts, no big deal. One of my CV axle seal springs came out; any tips on getting it back in correctly w/out pulling (likely damaging) the seal? Thanks. Replace it. Do not **** with it. It's a $6 part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewZ Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I can understand your pain with the interference between the bellhousing and the turbo. IMO that's the worst part of the whole job. I wouldn't shy from putting a little radius on the bellhousing with a die grinder if it looks like that'll make it easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtainsofdeath Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Thanks for the answers, Deer Killer. I actually bought a new set of hex-head flywheel bolts. I've worked with the XZN/Ribe/Torx/Torx+ bolts before and and am not a fan. I think they're probably great for the assembly line in the factory, but not so great for R&R in an application. By a quick of fate, I actually bought the crank-stop tool on ebay for 4.50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angeltalin Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 torques on the pressure plate? tranny to engine? i cannot find them anyyyywhere! some help StageIII Cryotune-Kinugawa STS TD06H-20GTX 9 blade turbine, ID1000, DW65c, 73mm MegaMAF , GS EWG up-pipe, Downpipe and EBCS, FMS FMIC, TGV Delete, Brembo swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW25gt Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 Great Videos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I just swapped out the FW, Clutch, and Pressure plate on my LGT two weeks ago. Flywheel to crank = 52.8 ft-lbs Pressure plate to flywheel torque = 11.8 ft-lbs. Tranny to engine = 37 ft-lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angeltalin Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Thanks, I just had a light bulb the day I did mine and went and looked at the vacation pics Sent from my Droid Incredible 2 using Tapatalk StageIII Cryotune-Kinugawa STS TD06H-20GTX 9 blade turbine, ID1000, DW65c, 73mm MegaMAF , GS EWG up-pipe, Downpipe and EBCS, FMS FMIC, TGV Delete, Brembo swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Here are some pictures from my recent change out for reference. Thought it might help somebody down the line..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowwill Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Finally change mine out today. Excellent video reference. We didn't have to drop the exhaust though. It was actually a spare hand lol. The hardest part was splitting the motor and tranny( 1hr ) and lining it back together. Release bearing seems to be almost seized up with hardly any movement. All else is good. About 7 hrs in the driveway with a buddy. Never again. Well hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMoney Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Did mine, worked at a snails pace. 16 hrs later it's done. Great video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 You have a wonderful voice. You should do radio...or books on tape. Awesome walk through. I can't believe you replaced the clutch in 12 minutes! he kind of reminds me of that wicked nice guy on tv in the 80's who was a painter and had a soothing voice and used to bang out paintings of mountains and stuff like it was nothing. he made it look so easy and fun! the guy who did this clutch video has probably educated milllions of lgt owners lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenNorthLGT Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 "Im gonna put a happy little bush right over here...." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now