DIY Clutch Replacement Video

[Scruit]

"Im gonna put a happy little bush right over here...."

 

Happy little bushing?

[MDKSDMF]

"yes mmmmmmmkay now where going to paint some clouds over hea..." bing bang boom masterpiece!

[Nolmers06LGT]

Thank you for this video guide. As a mechanical engineer i like to think of myself as mechanically inclined, however my experience is extremely limited. That being said, I would have been lost without your videos.

[Brock Samson]

SUCCESS!!!

 

17 hours of work over 2 days, using Scruit's video mainly and the Subie service manual for backup and torque specs, etc (highly recommend having those on hand).

 

I really did not have any significant problems during the process- just a lot of steps.

 

A couple notes-

 

-There are more turbo heatshield bolts than anyone else really mentions. I think I found 10 total? Also, be aware that there are 2 pieces to the heatshield, and they can be kinda confusing to put back together. Take some pictures during disassembly so you can get it back together.

-I absolutely needed new bolts, nuts, and donut for the mid pipe to muffler connection. This was really the only snafu, as the Subie dealer gave me the wrong damn size donut, and no nuts. Really a new gasket for the DP to Mid pipe would be good too.

-BEWARE THE O2 SENSOR ON THE MIDPIPE. We almost busted the wiring because we yanked the midpipe out from under the car before we saw the sensor. There was 1 small zip-tie clip on the wire, and the actual harness is accessible from up top behind the turbo.

-There was one wire that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere- looks like a grounding cable for the transmission- just a small wire that runs from above the pitch stop mount to the side of the transmission. Needs to be disconnected or you will break it when you move the tranny back.

-I did not disconnect the front axles. Definitely no need to. I had more than enough room to get the clutch cover off and work in there.

-Tranny/Engine separation procedure: this was not as difficult as I expected. After all the bellhousing bolts were removed, I spent some time rocking the engine, adjusting the tranny jack up a down fairly dramatically, more rocking. Then I took a small screwdriver (I would have used an old wood chisel if I had one) and started hammering it in to the seam just inboard of the turbo and hoist mount, outboard of the engine S/N. It took a good amount of hammering, probably 120 good strikes (with some more rocking and tranny jack adjustment along the way), that opened the smallest of gaps. At that point I broke out the PB blaster and thoroughly soaked the tiny gap from above. Then I got under the car, and sprayed some on the studs, and then a bunch of it in the bolt holes just above the studs. I went and had lunch, maybe 30-45 min, then came back and began hammering my screwdriver in the gap above some more. I immediately started to see more of a gap, increased screwdriver size (make sure you have a nice big flathead!) and worked my way around the top of the bellhousing opening the gap. Then under the car using my giant flathead, I levered it against the subframe of the car and the base of the transmission, and at that point it started to slide apart by hand. (sorry for the wordiness here, but this is a big issue for a lot of people and wanted to describe my process for them very explicitly).

-Using a good T50+ 3/8" drive head, I had NO problem removing the flywheel bolts. I had purchased replacement bolts with the hex head, but I'm returning them as it seemed pointless to not reuse the old T50+ bolts. I did spray them down with PB blaster prior to removal, but I didn't let them soak or anything. I am surprised that people are stripping these bolt heads.

-Turbo clearance was not an issue in the slightest during separation or putting things back together. Once again, surprised this has caused others problems.

-I used the cheapest harbor freight tranny jack. Worked kinda ok- it is not nearly adjustable enough in the tilt department to actually get the tranny back on the engine. It would not have worked if you're doing this job solo. I had 2 friends helping while mating them back up, and we needed a small trolley jack, some 2x4's, and a lot of jimmying to get it all back together properly.

-I lost significantly more gear oil out of the tranny than it appears most others do- it was over a pint. Glad I had a bottle of 75w90 on my shelf!

-I did not brace the engine with a 2x4, engine hoist or otherwise at any point. It seemed more useful to be able to rock the engine back and forth.

-Using 2 friends, moving the tranny back into place the tranny subframe kept catching on nooks and crannies of the underside of the car. With careful movement, we managed to get the 2 studs into the tranny, and those nuts threaded on 3-4 threads (didn't use washers, came back later and put those on). Once that was done, we started bolting it all back together, evenly inserting bolts and tightening them down bit by bit. Once they started to get close, we loosely bolted the tranny subframe to the car, then torqued down all the bellhousing bolts, then went back and torqued down the subframe bolts. Slowly but surely!

-You definitely need a good torque wrench for this project. The subframe bolts were technically out of the torque range of my wrench (75 ft lbs).

-Putting the intercooler back on at the end of the project was actually a major bitch. I've never removed the IC before, and getting the bypass hooked up properly was a major pain. Then I cross threaded one of the intercooler to turbo bolts. Patience is a virtue.

 

Just for reference sake, I used the Exedy FJK1001FW clutch kit. I like the feel a lot, but I'm not planning on increasing HP substantially.

 

 

TL;DR: THANKS FOR THE AWESOME VIDS SCRUIT. COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT THEM! She drives like a dream now.

Edited November 21, 2012 by Brock Samson

[optyks]

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

[itsme]

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

 

I have done it several times and it really depends on you. Do you have the skill, time, and tools to do it? Or is it worth it to pay someone?

[ece_tim]

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

I would expect it to take at least a couple hours for a shop as well.

[Brock Samson]

So does this video imply that I can call bullshit on shops when they quote multiple hour labor rates?

 

I would think an experienced professional Subaru mechanic with all the right tools and no significant issues (sheared bolts, excessive corrosion, etc) could get this done in 2 hours- And I have heard of shops quoting that amount. But I expect to get quoted 3-4 hours labor for this job most places. It is straightforward, but there are a lot of steps along the way and a couple of pitfalls.

[Rhiadon]

I'm currently in the middle of doing this work myself with a friend. Putting everything back together tomorrow on MLK Jr day.

 

Anyway, a couple of tips that I'd like to impart to you guys that we found to make the procedure so much easier.

 

1. To get the bell housing away from the block, use a very stiff putty knife with a tapered end or a 5 in 1 tool. This works great for getting the two to split apart so you can actually get larger tool in there to really get them apart. I have 120k miles on this thing so it may have been that the mileage made those fracking pins were very siezed.

 

2. disconnect the turbo from the up pipe. Seems like every body just says you fiddle with it until you get past the turbo. It seems to be a very near thing. So just disconnect the turbo from the downpipe and have a buddy pull up on the turbo a bit. Comes right out. No muss no fuss.

[Deer Killer]

IMHO the pins only appear seized because you haven't relieved the pressure on it from the weight of the transmission. Same root cause for not being able to put the transmission back in and clearance problems with the turbo. Should get the weight zero'd out with the use of the subaru ST which attaches to the pitchfork mount (or improvised one) vs whatever you are using the jack the transmission up.

[Nolmers06LGT]

IMHO the pins only appear seized because you haven't relieved the pressure on it from the weight of the transmission. Same root cause for not being able to put the transmission back in and clearance problems with the turbo. Should get the weight zero'd out with the use of the subaru ST which attaches to the pitchfork mount (or improvised one) vs whatever you are using the jack the transmission up.

 

I somewhat agree.. This is part of the issue. It's not the cure all though. I used an engine hoist in addition to a jack under the transmission, and the thing still wouldn't separate. The steel dowels and the aluminum bellhousing are naturally going to corrode.

 

The pins don't just appear seized, they are. The best solution is lots of PB Blaster, a putty knife at the seam, and a lot of hard work.

 

As for turbo clearance, having a few sets of hands REALLY helps.. I had the transmission back on the block in less than an hour. There were (2) guys under the car aligning the studs while I laid on top of the motor and coached. And by coached, I mean grabbed the axles and aimed the trans.

[SBT]

Aero Kroil FTW on those corroded pins. Works where nothing else does. Liberal amounts of antiseize on the reinstall in case you need to do it again.

[Brock Samson]

Aero Kroil FTW on those corroded pins. Works where nothing else does. Liberal amounts of antiseize on the reinstall in case you need to do it again.

 

Words to live by.

 

Also as Nolmers said, 3 total people are extremely useful for getting the tranny back on to the block- I used 2 under the car and one above. And I had zero turbo clearance issues.

[SBT]

I have the ST tool and plan to use that when uncoupling, reinstalling the tranny.

[V8Bait]

Wow you made this look way to easy . I might just have to try this myself now . Awesome videos!

[Nolmers06LGT]

I have the ST tool and plan to use that when uncoupling, reinstalling the tranny.

 

What is this ST tool you speak of? I just lost my TOB again, so I'll be doing this work soon.. For the second time...

[SBT]

ST 41099AC000 - It's called an Engine Support Assembly. Fits in where the pitch-stopper goes to make lining up the engine and transmission a lot easier (and holds the engine stable while the pitch-stopper is removed). Check page 5MT-25 of the FSM for more info.

[Nolmers06LGT]

ST 41099AC000 - It's called an Engine Support Assembly. Fits in where the pitch-stopper goes to make lining up the engine and transmission a lot easier (and holds the engine stable while the pitch-stopper is removed). Check page 5MT-25 of the FSM for more info.

 

Thanks.. I'll have to find out where to get one. I'll check the local stealership today.

[SBT]

For all Subaru Specialty Tools go here They're not cheap., but their U.S.-made quality is amazing.

[Underdog]

Thanks.. I'll have to find out where to get one. I'll check the local stealership today.

 

Save your money. Loosen the nuts that hold the engine mounts to the crossmember and you can slide the transmission right out, especially if you antiseized everything the last time you were in there.

[Nolmers06LGT]

Save your money. Loosen the nuts that hold the engine mounts to the crossmember and you can slide the transmission right out, especially if you antiseized everything the last time you were in there.

 

Holy crap.. I think I'll avoid the ST tool. I'm going to have enough money into finding a transmission jack- I'm not going to try this without one this time.

[SBT]

Told you they were expensive. But the micro-adjust and stability are worth it. You could likely make one for cheap though.

[Nolmers06LGT]

It doesn't look too complicated- If I have issues over the weekend I may fab one up monday. We shall see.

[ScottFW]

Told you they were expensive.

$623 for a torque wrench?!? I call that getting swindled and pimped. I call that getting tricked by da business.

 

I'm going to have enough money into finding a transmission jack...

I used the small HF trans jack when I did my clutch. It's not the best, in fact it kind of sucks, but it did the job and only costs ~$60-70 if you use the ubiquitous 20% off coupon. The top plate has a piss poor range of tilt/articulation and it helps to have a selection of 2-by and 1-by scrap lumber to shim it up to the bottom of the trans. And the shape of the jack legs doesn't allow the casters to swivel completely (absurd design defect). But it will work well enough to support the trans and slide it back & forth.

[Nolmers06LGT]

$623 for a torque wrench?!? I call that getting swindled and pimped. I call that getting tricked by da business.

 

 

I used the small HF trans jack when I did my clutch. It's not the best, in fact it kind of sucks, but it did the job and only costs ~$60-70 if you use the ubiquitous 20% off coupon. The top plate has a piss poor range of tilt/articulation and it helps to have a selection of 2-by and 1-by scrap lumber to shim it up to the bottom of the trans. And the shape of the jack legs doesn't allow the casters to swivel completely (absurd design defect). But it will work well enough to support the trans and slide it back & forth.

 

Did it a second time this weekend without the trans jack or any specialty tools. Separated the transmission in under an hour, had the transmission back on the car within 2 hours. Definitely much easier the second time around. What took me a few weeks last time took under 12 hours this time, and that was including troubleshooting the CSC.