Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

AndrewZ

Members
  • Posts

    146
  • Joined

Everything posted by AndrewZ

  1. As mentioned, you need the forward (wideband) o2 sensor for fuel adjustments. The rearward sensor is for emissions. Using RomRaider & Ecuflash you can easily just disable the rear sensor and avoid a CEL if you don't have a cat
  2. I can understand your pain with the interference between the bellhousing and the turbo. IMO that's the worst part of the whole job. I wouldn't shy from putting a little radius on the bellhousing with a die grinder if it looks like that'll make it easier
  3. http://legacygt.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif
  4. My washers aren't working, either. The rears work fine but the fronts don't work at all. Are they on separate pumps? On my last car there was a sort of check valve in the lines to the washer nozzles that would fail eventually; I hope someone has a similar (easy) fix
  5. Yikes! Sorry to hear about that; I've removed them the last 2 times I've done spark plugs on my 05 2.5T
  6. Well, underneath my car last weekend I saw that my *driver*'s side inner boot is torn now too. Last time I went the lower ball joint route and the capture bolt broke right off. Can the lower pivots for the control arm be unbolted and swing the knuckle enough from there? Or the struts (knowing about alignment issues)? What's most simple, and doesn't involve the lower ball joint?
  7. I've been following the thread, awesome build frankster! Question: Are you starting with a GNX or any old 3800? I know you're putting pistons in it and a new turbo so it probably doesn't matter, or does it? You said on the first page that the stock crank and rods are good for 700+hp, is that all 3800s or just the GN/GNX?
  8. You shouldn't have to pull the axles to replace the clutch - I didn't. And I did it twice because I missed putting the pilot bearing on the flywheel the first time through. None of the auto parts stores around me, including autozone, rent jacks of any sort. I was able to rent one (a trans jack) at a run-of-the-mill local tool & equipment rental place. Really though, if you have two guys I found it easier with just a floor jack and jack satnd
  9. FWIW, this mod seems pretty reliable. I've had it on for some time now without complaint from the car. When I was data logging I tagged it on a run and the ECU read the EGT as perfectly constant the whole time, somewhere around 1475 if I remember right. I'm guessing it (the ECU) doesn't use it for tuning, because IMO that sounds a little rich
  10. According to their website, part 81609 is the axle for turbo cars My thought on that link is how do you have over 500 posts? It should be more work to remove, rebuild and reinstall the axle than remove the old and insert a new one
  11. autozone doesn't rent them, but a lot of tool rental companies do. A big and a small variant from my experience, and we want the small
  12. I would be very careful about those disc-style gap tools, or any sort of precise measuring device for a buck. Using a set of feeler gauges is a lot more reliable
  13. Billfer ... Is yours an XT? I was able to replace mine in my 05 outback XT no problem, next time I will jack up the engine a half inch though
  14. For reference: I first tried using the drivers provided with OpenEcu 1.29a for the cable. These worked fine with RomRaider's logger - but while OpenEcu would recognize a cable was connected by the read button being active it, would tell me that it was unable to connect to OpenPort. I uninstalled the drivers and tried the ones linked to on the first page here with the same results, ensuring correct baud rate and trying several different ports So, I uninstalled the drivers from the port and uninstalled OpenEcu 1.29a. I installed OpenEcu 1.42.2595, at the time most current, and its openport drivers. Rebooted, and OpenEcu was able to read my ECU without problem! This is using the blue connector with silver wire cable EDIT: Successfully flashed new map with latest version of OpenECU and logged with RomRaider without issue
  15. Fun little note, The bolt that clamps in my balljoint simply sheared where the threads start. Time for an easy-out or some such Between that and the supremely galled sway bar end link, this hour job is quickly becoming a 3 hour one
  16. You should be able to get the transmission rear enough so that the front lip of the bellhousing can rest on the edge of the rear lip of the engine subframe, for reference to how far back you can go with the axles on. You may want to lower the front of the transmission so the input shaft on the transmission isn't in the way of your clutch alignment tool I had the same problem separating the engine and transmission
  17. Removing the axles isn't necessary, I did it without. Twice. (forgot to install a pilot bearing in the new flywheel) I believe you leak fluid from the tail even without it tilted. It comes out in slow drips, you might not even notice it's leaking until there's a puddle and the smell of 90 weight. BTW, if you haven't yet experienced there isn't really a smell worse that can come from a car than burnt gear lube. And if you have an attached garage it can stink up the whole house if it's left sitting out. I let mine drip for a few days and maybe a quarter quart of fluid at most left the transmission.
  18. Thanks for the link, I went ahead and ordered one from him. It looks like its $10 more now. Worth the money over replacing the boot IMO because I'm not sure how long the boot has been torn and wear on the bearings as consequence.
  19. Hey Scruit, Thanks for the video. I was going to buy a repair manual but I feel confident having watched you do it.
  20. I'm in Palatine like two nights a week I see there are some people from here there or in that area a meet should be pretty simple but more interesting if we have something to do say mod installs if anyone has parts to put on?
  21. Thanks for the write up, BoxerGT! (though it was a few years ago) I just finished replacing the plugs on my 05 OBXT, along with cleaning the MAF, correctly fastening down the battery and for curiousity's sake removing the intake resonator Including two trips to autozone it took a little over two hours. I've pretty much done it all between wasting tons of money on my last daily driver, building a project car and being a mechanic for the better part of a decade for amature SCCA cars but had never touched a Subaru before other than changing its oil (I got it in the spring). So I'm glad this guide was here because I was pretty sure those were coil packs The plugs were a pretty easy job but it would have made me mad if I didn't have an assortment of 3/8" extensions, though the three incher worked for most of it. I didn't end up needing to use a u-joint I was able to use a 12mm wrench My advice from today is to skip the autolite iridiums. They don't come pregapped like they are supposedly. On one of the plugs out of the box the hanging electrode was drooping and pressing against the iridium center!! On another the gap must have been twice spec, which the others were (~0.040"). I wonder if they came that way from autolite or if it was from transport. NGK's are pretty and run great. The OBXT has 51,400 and it was running notably smoother after the whole thing - though admittedly it was one of the coldest times I've driven it so it may have been the cold intake air that hit the rev limiter
  22. Kenosha! Just bought the car a couple hours ago
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use