Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 What is this ST tool you speak of? I just lost my TOB again, so I'll be doing this work soon.. For the second time... You don't need the tool, the engine will rock forward not back. I didn't use one. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 $623 for a torque wrench?!? I call that getting swindled and pimped. I call that getting tricked by da business. What U.S.A.F. Torque Wrench are you referring to above? I was referring to the Engine Support Assembly, ST 41099AC000 which replaces the pitch stopper. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I could see the tool helping when it comes to separating/mating the transmission, especially if you're by yourself. You definitely don't need it, but it could make life a little easier. I had 3 people on the transmission, and it wasn't that bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 It will just be me...myself and I. So I'll be doing everything I can to make sure it's doable from a one-person point of view. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Definitely. It took less than an hour to separate this time.. a putty knife on the top seam, more pb blast on the dowel pins, and some wide prybars to finish. It's not that bad if it has been cracked before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Did you anti-seize the dowel pins during reinstall? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Did you anti-seize the dowel pins during reinstall? I didn't the last time.. I did this time though. It probably would have taken 15 minutes if I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 It will just be me...myself and I. So I'll be doing everything I can to make sure it's doable from a one-person point of view. I did mine 100% solo. To keep the engine from rocking too far forward when re-mating the trans, I just used some scrap lumber wedged between the front of the engine and the back of the rad fan area, all on the driver's side. It's a little more ghetto than using a SST but it works and the force involved isn't high enough to stress or break any parts, at least it didn't on mine. There is no way I would have been able to do the job without the $9.99 four-piece pry bar set from HF. Obviously you'll want them to separate the engine & trans, but it helps for re-mating too. A long pry bar can exert some much-needed forward pulling force against the back of the bellhousing flange when you wedge the tip against part of the subframe. Just mind the hard lines down there. I anti-seized a bunch of stuff on reassembly including the dowel pins, but I hope to not find out its effects anytime soon. Nolmers, you have my sympathy. I'm going to shit if I don't get several years out of this TOB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 1, 2013 Moderators Share Posted May 1, 2013 I did mine 100% solo. To keep the engine from rocking too far forward when re-mating the trans, I just used some scrap lumber wedged between the front of the engine and the back of the rad fan area, all on the driver's side. It's a little more ghetto than using a SST but it works and the force involved isn't high enough to stress or break any parts, at least it didn't on mine. There is no way I would have been able to do the job without the $9.99 four-piece pry bar set from HF. Obviously you'll want them to separate the engine & trans, but it helps for re-mating too. A long pry bar can exert some much-needed forward pulling force against the back of the bellhousing flange when you wedge the tip against part of the subframe. Just mind the hard lines down there. I anti-seized a bunch of stuff on reassembly including the dowel pins, but I hope to not find out its effects anytime soon. Nolmers, you have my sympathy. I'm going to shit if I don't get several years out of this TOB. Will be calling you when I need to do my clutch "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I did mine 100% solo. To keep the engine from rocking too far forward when re-mating the trans, I just used some scrap lumber wedged between the front of the engine and the back of the rad fan area, all on the driver's side. It's a little more ghetto than using a SST but it works and the force involved isn't high enough to stress or break any parts, at least it didn't on mine. There is no way I would have been able to do the job without the $9.99 four-piece pry bar set from HF. Obviously you'll want them to separate the engine & trans, but it helps for re-mating too. A long pry bar can exert some much-needed forward pulling force against the back of the bellhousing flange when you wedge the tip against part of the subframe. Just mind the hard lines down there. I anti-seized a bunch of stuff on reassembly including the dowel pins, but I hope to not find out its effects anytime soon. Nolmers, you have my sympathy. I'm going to shit if I don't get several years out of this TOB. Well I found out the problem is my pressure plate. Hope you didn't install an ACT kit- I'm learning very quickly that they are hit or miss, but more often than not, a miss. Looks like I'll be doing this AGAIN. Oh well, practice makes perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I was referring to the Engine Support Assembly, ST 41099AC000 which replaces the pitch stopper. Flat plate of metal with two holes in it... Drill a third if it's not short enough, or slot one... Simple tool to make. Oh and putting Anti seize on the dowels doesn't help. I did that when I did my clutch, 50k later pulling the engine it was JUST as stuck. If anything, find a small reamer and open up the holes on the block so the pins fit easier and not so tight, Original its near a press fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Well I found out the problem is my pressure plate. Hope you didn't install an ACT kit... I have the CM FX300 and TSK3 kit. About 2500 miles on it, so far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Flat plate of metal with two holes in it... Drill a third if it's not short enough, or slot one... Simple tool to make. Oh and putting Anti seize on the dowels doesn't help. I did that when I did my clutch, 50k later pulling the engine it was JUST as stuck. If anything, find a small reamer and open up the holes on the block so the pins fit easier and not so tight, Original its near a press fit. Yikes... I'm not sure I'd suggest that. There is a reason it is a press fit- typically its to provide alignment. I wouldn't want mess with that if I were you.. The engineers use dowel pins for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I have the CM FX300 and TSK3 kit. About 2500 miles on it, so far so good. I'm either going to go with the CM FX350 or the South Bend DXD clutch kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjmx06 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 I just went with the CM FX300 kit and when it includes replacement bearings thats talking the throw out bearing, correct? Also will it work with an ACT lightweight flywheel which is currently in the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottFW Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 The FX300 kit will include a throwout bearing, NTN brand I believe was in mine. I succumbed to fear-based marketing and went with the TSK3 kit though. You should also replace the pilot bearing while you're in there, and I don't remember that coming with the clutch kit. I went with the 06+ WRX fitment SMFW which came with a new pilot bearing in it already. Since you need to get the flywheel resurfaced, you might as well source your new pilot bearing ahead of time, that way you can have the machine shop press that in for you. In theory, your ACT flywheel should work, provided the flywheel and clutch kit are both supposed to fit the same year & model of car. Whether it will work in reality, I guess you'll find out. Not sure what clutch you're running with it now, but the FX300 is slightly "grabby" on engagament. For the daily driving in stop-and-go traffic that my car sees I probably wouldn't choose to run it with a super light flywheel, but that's personal preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Depressingly enough, my clutch is out again. Not worn - won't disengage. Back in '09 I had more time than money. This time it is the other way round so I am letting the dealer fix it this time. Clutch lasted 4 years / 70k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks so much Scruit. This was always a job that I wanted to tackle and have had fears about. After reviewing your video, it looks to me like a ~6 hour job for a newbie with the proper tools (and forgoing any seized bolts). It also seems completely reasonable for a guy with the right tools, a garage space, and (just in case) another vehicle as a back-up for worst case scenarios. Joe too lazy to look forward and see how this guy made out in clutch swap... but holy hell the first time I attempted this was a total nightmare. Not that it was too challenging...it was just a HUGE PITA. Total job took me about 20 hours of labor doing it solo sans the help of a friend to put the tranny back under the car and in place. The special hex size for the bolts totally screwed me which landed me cutting up the face of the factory flywheel where the bolts hide. Since then I've pulled the motor and trans again due to having to rebuild it. So seeing that I did that work about 26K miles ago and put it all back together with anti seize, I'm hoping this time through should be a breeze. But its still a pain of a project. BTW this was an awesome walk through and helped me tremendously with my first go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazooka_joe_773 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 It was a little disheartening to read 12 pages of posts to find out the original poster is taking his car to the dealer. But the video made me a lot more confident in doing it myself. It sounds like there are a few things to grease and maybe a couple of gaskets to replace. Can anyone verify these what items need to be greased? And also which gaskets should be replaced? (first time doing a clutch) Thanks, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 You should only have to grease the shaft thT the TOB slides on. That's all I remember doing on mine. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 5, 2014 Moderators Share Posted February 5, 2014 It was a little disheartening to read 12 pages of posts to find out the original poster is taking his car to the dealer. But the video made me a lot more confident in doing it myself. It sounds like there are a few things to grease and maybe a couple of gaskets to replace. Can anyone verify these what items need to be greased? And also which gaskets should be replaced? (first time doing a clutch) Thanks, Dan You should only have to grease the shaft thT the TOB slides on. That's all I remember doing on mine. If you have the vacation pix they show exactly where to grease, but from what I recall I greased the following: inside of TOBshaft that TOB slides on (snout)i removed the clutch fork and cleaned / regreased the pivot ballthe contact point between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork. I used moly grease for anything inside the transmission and I used superlube on the contact point between the slave / fork. You won't need any gaskets / seals assuming you dont undo an axle (not necessary) and don't remove the transmission drain plug (also not necessary). "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazooka_joe_773 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 BarManBean, What are these vaction pic's you speak of? And is there a gasket for the drive shaft to transmission? Otherwise thanks for the good greasing info. Thanks, Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 5, 2014 Moderators Share Posted February 5, 2014 BarManBean, What are these vaction pic's you speak of? And is there a gasket for the drive shaft to transmission? Otherwise thanks for the good greasing info. Thanks, Dan Here are the pics: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vacation-pix-171435.html It was a really great trip and you should download all of them No gasket for the driveshaft that I'm aware of... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazooka_joe_773 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Maybe I'll get the secret once I look at the pictures haha. But I appreciate the link, I'll take a look at them after work today. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazooka_joe_773 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Ooooo I'm currently on vaction! And it is glorious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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