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XenonFactory HID kits GROUP BUY!


gt_ltd

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Im interested but I have to ask a dumb question.. How much work is the actual installation?

 

1. open hood

2. disconnect battery's negative lead

3. unplug and remove stock bulbs

4. put xenon bulbs in

5. connect included cables to matching plugs/connectors on ballasts & relays & bulbs and to stock headlight connectors

6. connect power leads to battery & ground to body

7. reconnect battery's negative lead

8. test (if don't work, skip to 11)

9. tie excessive cables and mount ballasts/relays

10. close hood

 

11.

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Fedex shows my set were delivered today. I am going to do a quick and dirty install right after work so I can see how they look after dark tonight. I will tidy it up tomorrow, as I am playing hooky from work....errrr telecommuting. :D
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Then it will take me two hours!! I might do that for the 'final' install vs. the rig job to get them running tonight.

 

Any suggestions about mods needed to the housing for proper beam pattern (if any)? I am HID clueless.

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Any suggestions about mods needed to the housing for proper beam pattern (if any)? I am HID clueless.

 

nothing to adjust for level. as for cutoff pattern... nothing you can adjust to improve unless you replace the projector lens/reflector.

 

 

& how does it add up to 15? There are 10 already paid (but XF web site shows as 9 though...) There is " gfxdave99" & jdkob. That's 12.

Oh, there may be 1 or 2 more from SiennaClub. CLOSE~ :eek:

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First of all, let me say the quality of the kit is top-notch....everything is straightforward and P-n-P. The major PITAs are routing the driver's side power to the battery and finding good grounds. Some highlights:

 

* Use the velcro and stick the driver's ballast to the bottom of the light housing

* The other side is too tight - leave the Velcro and wedge the ballast under the housing and between the subframe....a tight, but perfect fit (you might need to loosen up a bolt on the light housing)

* Route the passenger side the long way, up to the firewall if you want to avoid having to tuck the extra wire on at the battery

* Ground the driver's side to the battery

* Ground the passenger's side to a factory ground on vertical side of the subframe, just below the airbox. It looks to be the radiator ground point.

* Use a 1 inch hole saw or paddle pit to drill the holes in the light cups - 1 inch = 25.4mm (the instructions say 25mm).

 

It took me about 30 minutes for all the basic fitment.....another hour fooling with grounds (nothing worked until I went to the points listed above) and routing of the passenger's power wire.

 

Let me know if you have Q's - I am going to fix dinner now.....

:D

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First of all, let me say the quality of the kit is top-notch....everything is straightforward and P-n-P. The major PITAs are routing the driver's side power to the battery and finding good grounds. Some highlights:

 

* Use the velcro and stick the driver's ballast to the bottom of the light housing

* The other side is too tight - leave the Velcro and wedge the ballast under the housing and between the subframe....a tight, but perfect fit (you might need to loosen up a bolt on the light housing)

* Route the passenger side the long way, up to the firewall if you want to avoid having to tuck the extra wire on at the battery

* Ground the driver's side to the battery

* Ground the passenger's side to a factory ground on vertical side of the subframe, just below the airbox. It looks to be the radiator ground point.

* Use a 1 inch hole saw or paddle pit to drill the holes in the light cups - 1 inch = 25.4mm (the instructions say 25mm).

 

It took me about 30 minutes for all the basic fitment.....another hour fooling with grounds (nothing worked until I went to the points listed above) and routing of the passenger's power wire.

 

Let me know if you have Q's - I am going to fix dinner now.....

:D

 

 

The installation requires drilling? How major?

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The installation requires drilling? How major?

 

easy - cut one inch holes in the back of the plastic cups that go over the light housing. This is to pull the three cables through - they have an integrated grommet/boot to seal the hole.

 

I only have one reservation - I need to swap back to stock for the annual inspection - need to disconnect the power leads and isntall the H7 halogens. This leaves me with a big hole in the cup - need to order replacements to keep the lights sealed when the time comes.

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why would you need to put the halogen bulbs back in for inspection????

 

State of Virginia does an annual safety inspection and you must have functional, DOT stamped bulbs. :(

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4100K kit (fogs off)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/DSCN3603.jpg

 

4100K with Osram 'All-weather' amber fog bulbs

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/DSCN3602.jpg

 

Front view - 4100K kit and amber fog bulbs:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/DSCN3599small.jpg

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Wow! The cutoff pattern is much crispier than I expected from a conversion kit. Now I really can't wait to get mine installed.

Does Subaru have a projector les or reflector type headlight housing?

 

As for inspection, "functional" checks.. OK... but do they really remove the bulbs to check???? That's ridiculous. They need a real job.

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is that 3000K or 4100K? looks yellow to me... :eek:

 

It's your monitor. I posted them up on my laptop and they looked brite white. Looking at my 17" LCD, they look yellow. :confused:

 

As for inspection, "functional" checks.. OK... but do they really remove the bulbs to check???? That's ridiculous. They need a real job.

 

I had a set of PIAA hyper blue plasma H4 bulbs from Japan in a 7" H4 Hella conversion lamp kit in my Jeep. They failed me because they weren't stamped DOT. Yes, they pull the bulbs out and check for the stamp and check to make sure the color is 'correct', which means there is alot of room for judgment calls (re: color).

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One thing I noticed from a quick test drive - they throw off some funky patterns. Second order reflections or something in the foreground. Our MINI has xenons and it's a totally different pattern. Retrofitting an HID specific projector makes alot of sense......I'm down for ideas.

 

As for cool factor.....these get 10/10. As for improving visibility.....I'll call it a 6/10 - I am not overly impressed so far. The manual says the kit takes about 100 hours to burn in. We'll see how it looks after a week of driving.

 

Also - the way the kit is wired, it's a built-in DRL disable. :D

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4100K do have a very very very faint tone of yellow. But hardly noticeable when looking at'em with bare eyes. Camera's might pick it up and amplify the colors speically in poor lighting condition with no flash.

There is no technology that can match the color of Sun 100%. It's gonna be either a bit of yellow but bright or a bit of blue but dimmer.

 

What do you mean by "funky" pattern? Does Subaru have a reflector type headlight housing? I know Sienna does and the stock Sienna Xenon HID housing has a very minor differece in reflector patterns than that of non-HID thus the cutt-off pattern is a bit crispier in stock HID housing.

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Does the kit come with bolts/washer/nuts for mounting relays?

Are the wires covered/wrapped or can you see each single wires? Maybe I should buy some wire hose to cover them up so the wiring looks more stock.

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All wires are loomed with black plastic sheathing. The kit comes with zip ties, some stingers (screws with metal cutting tips) and velcro. I am not sure where you would mount the relays on the LGT.....not much room to much of anything upfront.
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