laz Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Thanks will do, OEM will be for me. X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 nothing fits like OEM I got the OEM set to tackle the leaking tube seal issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StPaddysWagon Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 So whats the diagnosis of a boot plug w/ oil? Valve cover gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laz Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 So whats the diagnosis of a boot plug w/ oil? Valve cover gasket? I think so, look at the gasket around the holes, there should be oil there too. X --- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 So whats the diagnosis of a boot plug w/ oil? Valve cover gasket? No it is the spark plug tube seals, these are inexpensive replacements and should be done when replacing the valve cover gaskets. I too have this issue and once i get my car back (got rear ended on I-81) i will replace both and make a guide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Did my plugs today with the NGK Iridium IX-11 plugs today and I was really happy once again by the detail and simplicity of GEE's step by step. So THANK YOU! I haven't noticed a difference between the old plugs and the new ones. I also put a dab of anti-seize on the plug threads and some dielectric grease on the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Went fancy with the Iridiums glad I could be of help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sulk Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Changed my plugs today, thanks for the guide gee-otto! Really wasn't that bad of a job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m_dogg Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I don't like the idea of removing misc parts in order to get to the plugs - I guess I'm just used to my old Regal where I could do it in my sleep. Anyways, an easy task to do. Nice writeup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 I don't like the idea of removing misc parts in order to get to the plugs - I guess I'm just used to my old Regal where I could do it in my sleep. Anyways, an easy task to do. Nice writeup. Yeah just the battery and intake tract the rest is simply moving hoses/wires out the way in order to get the extension on each plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 ALERT**** So i changed out my plugs in July of last year with the BKR5EGP plug. So last Nov-Dec i notice a skip when cold while taking off from stoplights OR in 5th at low rpms going up slight inclines. So i began to track possible causes: Coil, wires, O2 bad gas etc. All where in full functional spec and condition so I decided to pull a plug just to see what it looked like and wow those damned plugs were FOUL! the Electrode on two of them had worn down almost like they were filed down. Now before we go any further they were gaped at .044 before i installed them. So i replaced them all yesterday evening with BKR5EGP ONLY because the parts store didnt have any in stock AND ill be getting the front of the engine resealed along with valve covers and tube seals later this month along with a fresh set of FR5AP-11 (the BKR5EGP are only $3/plug so i can live with a $12 temp investment to eliminate the skip) Point being here the BKR5EGP are cheap but dont hold up for me as well as the FR5AP-11s. This is probably due to the fact i drive ALOT! ill be turning 100K this week possible! (hence the TB, oil pump and cam seals, valve tube seals and cover gaskets) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 ok i'm doing my valve cover and tube seals. do i have to jack the engine up? i've done valve cover jobs on older subaru's but with this "newer" 2008 legacy 2.5i i have, the covers don't want to come out unless i jack the motor up. its caught in between the valve train and frame rails. i've been wiggling them around but can't seem to get them out. they are unbolted and free. just somehow caught. i don't want to force anything and mess up the valvetrain. has anyone done these yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Loosen the lower mounts and jack it from the pan dont forget to remove the pitch stopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 i'd imagine both the engine and tranny mounts right? simple job but i can't believe i'd need to do all this for valve cover seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 YOu get enough play with the engine mounts loosened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cratra Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Firstly thanks for a great site. It has been a great help to me. My 10/03 Outback has 100,000 kms on it now and I did the plugs the other day for the first time with the help from the tutorial. I needed to use a variety of different extension to get into the rear plugs as the suspension tower limits access a bit. I put in NGK PFR5B-11 Laser platinum's with 0.044 gap. The old plugs were the original Champions RCI0YC4 and were still going great Disconnected the battery for about 45 minutes while I did the left hand side. The car needed a few turns of the ignition to kick in like what has been said. However a funny thing happened. The car idled smoothly but when I put the accelerator down the revs dropped instead of going up and the car stalled a few times like it was running out of petrol. It did this off and on and I was able to get the revs up and red line the engine okay. The engine was running good (no shakes or misfires). After about 10 minutes of this almost stalling when trying to accelerate it started to work fine. I took it for a run and it goes great. I just don't know why it went a bit silly. I think it was the vehicles computer just resetting itself because I had the power off, but I'm not sure. I've taken it for a few runs and it works fine but was a bit scared when it initially was playing up straight after I put the plugs in. I thought shit what have I done wrong, I'm going to have to put the old ones back in as I stuffed up somewhere. I have been servicing my cars for about 30 years now and know the basics okay. Just don't know why it went a bit funny though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Firstly thanks for a great site. It has been a great help to me. My 10/03 Outback has 100,000 kms on it now and I did the plugs the other day for the first time with the help from the tutorial. I needed to use a variety of different extension to get into the rear plugs as the suspension tower limits access a bit. I put in NGK PFR5B-11 Laser platinum's with 0.044 gap. The old plugs were the original Champions RCI0YC4 and were still going great Disconnected the battery for about 45 minutes while I did the left hand side. The car needed a few turns of the ignition to kick in like what has been said. However a funny thing happened. The car idled smoothly but when I put the accelerator down the revs dropped instead of going up and the car stalled a few times like it was running out of petrol. It did this off and on and I was able to get the revs up and red line the engine okay. The engine was running good (no shakes or misfires). After about 10 minutes of this almost stalling when trying to accelerate it started to work fine. I took it for a run and it goes great. I just don't know why it went a bit silly. I think it was the vehicles computer just resetting itself because I had the power off, but I'm not sure. I've taken it for a few runs and it works fine but was a bit scared when it initially was playing up straight after I put the plugs in. I thought shit what have I done wrong, I'm going to have to put the old ones back in as I stuffed up somewhere. I have been servicing my cars for about 30 years now and know the basics okay. Just don't know why it went a bit funny though. Great we all could help you out! Secondly after a reset the ECU takes a bit to relearn and set parameters back to optimal limits. Everytime I change the plug in my 2009 2.5i it dies whiel driving for the first few miles when i push in the clutch. After a good 20 min drive on the highway at a constant speed she's RIGHT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweet-subaru Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 did you or should i replace wires has well when i do my 60k service? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 did you or should i replace wires has well when i do my 60k service? I didnt change wires until 90K but I probably could have rant them up to 120K. If you have them on hand change them at 60k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0suby0 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 wow this is a good write up for ppl that don't have too many mechanical skills and for all you that don't think that you can do it don't get discouraged it really is a simple job and isn't hard to do at all. The main reason why i am posting here is bc my girl just bought an 08 2.5i and she loves it we bought it with 108,000 miles and have put about 5000 on it and have been noticing that its leaking oil and can smell coolant when we drive it and diagnosed that its a head gasket issue which i found out from a local dealership mechanic that these cars have this problem when you get some higher miles on the car which sucks since we just bought the car but i already bought everything i need to do the job and am getting ready to jump in and get the job done but i didn't buy spark plugs just yet and i was wondering if anyone has used those E3 plugs to know if they do work better and save money on gas so if anyone has any input on this please let me know as for i am getting ready to get this torn apart and i need to get it all done in a decent amount of time so i need to know about these plugs soon. So thanks in advance for the help Robbie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Welcome Robbie, Sucks about the HGs failing so soon Second NEVER EVER use those plugs. Denso plugs for the price and performance are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawlwawl06 Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hey guys, how did you figure out the amount of gap needed for the spark plugs, and where did you get the gauge from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 Paul I gap my plugs per the manual @ .044 this info also match what NGK recommends on their website for our engine. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp Should also help you compare the different plugs choices they offer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Subscribed. This is the thread that I was really looking for. BTW, n00b question: I noticed this thread and other posts about spark plug change suggests 2 3" extension. Am I right in thinking that the purpose of this is to allow people to, in cramp space, insert the spark plug socket first, followed the first 3" extension, and then another 3" extension? Do we need 6" in total to reach the spark plugs? I know with K-series Honda engines, all you need is just one 6" extension since you can insert it from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Subscribed. This is the thread that I was really looking for. BTW, n00b question: I noticed this thread and other posts about spark plug change suggests 2 3" extension. Am I right in thinking that the purpose of this is to allow people to, in cramp space, insert the spark plug socket first, followed the first 3" extension, and then another 3" extension? Do we need 6" in total to reach the spark plugs? I know with K-series Honda engines, all you need is just one 6" extension since you can insert it from the top. Yeah basically have a mix of extensions on hand if you need to get to a cramped plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.