Al Thomson Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Just how much of a pain is it to install an after market up pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Compared to an oil change it is a huge PITA, compared to rebuilding a transmission using a butter knife and some JB weld it is really easy Give yourself extra time and make sure you have everything you need and you will be fine. there are lots of threads with instructions and pictures. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Just how much of a pain is it to install an after market up pipe? if you know what you are doin, it takes 2hrs on jack stands in the driveway. for a n00b it may take 4hrs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 ^^ that sounds right. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rurouni_x Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 watch out for the half moon seal on the crank case cover when trying to wrestle it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruski Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 4 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Just do yourself a favor and jack up the engine block when trying to pull out the old and put in the new. I wrestled with it for an hour before figuring out that jacking the engine up gives you just enough room to sneak the new one in But, it's not a hard job to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruski Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Just do yourself a favor and jack up the engine block when trying to pull out the old and put in the new. I wrestled with it for an hour before figuring out that jacking the engine up gives you just enough room to sneak the new one in But, it's not a hard job to do. Yes agreed. Take off the passenger side exhaust manifold also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Take off the passenger side exhaust manifold also. Right, I forgot about that. Take it off, makes things much more accessible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
korpsepatrol Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Yes agreed. Take off the passenger side exhaust manifold also. If your doing it with jack stands i would definitely recommend this approach. On a lift you can use a transmission jack and push the engine up. You can use this approach with the jack stands but its all depending about how comfortable you feel under your car on jack stands. AND USE TORQUE SPECS! That really made my 4th up install WAY easy, no leaks. 2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress 2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold 2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIP R.I.P Coxx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VtspecB Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 ... watch out jacking up the engine with a floor jack. I learned that they don't jack straight up, DUH. More of an up and toward you direction i.e. engine doesn't want to drop back down into the same place it came from (motor mount holes). But I still completed it by myself with some elbow grease. Do it yourself ... it's quite rewarding! my vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKGT5 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I suggest using floor ramps, I used jacks the first time and failed. The next time I used the ramps and it came out without much of an effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisS Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Most everything is easily accessible, but I ended up having to take it to a shop because even with a ton of penetrating oil I couldn't get all the bolts undone. So I guess "ease" can be based on whether or not you're breaking sockets on bolts that don't want to come out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 if you know what you are doin, it takes 2hrs on jack stands in the driveway. for a n00b it may take 4hrs I clocked you @ 1.5 first time is a pita -- mostly from the rusty bolts on the manifold heatshields. much easier if you've got all sockets (deep and reg), 3/8" ratchet and 1/2" torque wrench for cracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05pearl Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 much easier if you've got all sockets (deep and reg), 3/8" ratchet and 1/2" torque wrench for cracking. ... and a flex joint in your up pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 The real key tool in this install or any install IMO is PB blaster, not liquid wrench, not WD40. I have nothing but rave reviews about PB blaster helping me get nasty corroded exhaust nuts and bolts off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Not to jack the thread but I will be installing TMIC, headers, UP, turbo, DP and CBE in late August/early September, and I'm not sure on the order of operations. Here's what I'm thinking (after looking at vaca pix): Jack car up, put on stands, remove front wheels and under trayOpen hood and remove engine cover and intercoolerRemove rear O2 sensorRemove Center, Y-Pipe, and mufflersRemove turbo heatshieldSeparate DP from turbo and unplug front O2 sensorRemove DPRemove TurboRemove UPRemove exhaust manifoldInstall in reverse order For those of you that have lived this, does this order of operations make sense? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudeondacouch Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Sounds about right, but beware of the awful chore that is putting the turbo back in. Also... FWIW, I had no problem removing the stock UP or putting the Invidia one in without removing the manifold or jacking up the engine. But I did have the DP/Turbo and stuff out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I didnt have to take the turbo off when I did my DP install, it was more difficult to do, but I didnt have the effort/problems of doing the turbo junk either. 7. Remove DP 8. Remove headers 9. Remove UP 10. install in reverse order If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I'm gonna take the Monday and hopefully Tuesday off so I can have a total of four uninterrupted days to finish it. I have a wide variety of tools and at least 4 cans of PB Blaster. I'm going to get flexible oil feed lines too just to make it a bit easier. What else am I not anticipating? executor485: The turbo is being replaced. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudeondacouch Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 The worst part is getting the inlet tube back on the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
executor485 Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 executor485: The turbo is being replaced. Ah... Reading > me... lol If I pass you on the right, I'm flipping you off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 sooo i got my grimmspeed flex up pipe and i'm about to install it tomorrow. My pops has a lift or three in the garage for his collection of toys, so I'm gunna move some things around and get my car up in the air. Do i realllly need to remove the downpipe and the turbo to put this bastard in cuz i don't have another crush gasket handy for the downpipe. Is it possible to just swap the pipes out without tearing into other things such as the exhaust manifold and turbo and DP... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waxiboy Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Not to jack the thread but I will be installing TMIC, headers, UP, turbo, DP and CBE in late August/early September, and I'm not sure on the order of operations. Here's what I'm thinking (after looking at vaca pix): Jack car up, put on stands, remove front wheels and under trayOpen hood and remove engine cover and intercoolerRemove rear O2 sensorRemove Center, Y-Pipe, and mufflersRemove turbo heatshieldSeparate DP from turbo and unplug front O2 sensorRemove DPRemove TurboRemove UPRemove exhaust manifoldInstall in reverse orderFor those of you that have lived this, does this order of operations make sense? These are my tips (no particular order) when I did my DP & UP: - Use PB Blaster to remove nuts & bolts. Before re-installing, clean with brake cleaner, otherwise it might loosen. - Use new gaskets. The only gasket I would probably re-use is the donut between the DP & mid pipe. - It is easier to remove the entire exhaust manifold (L&R) and cross pipe all in one piece. - You will need a 14mm deep socket for one (maybe 2) of the UP nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Thomson Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 did Subaru stop fitting catted up pipes in 07+ cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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