SBT Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 The transmission P/N is located on the bell-housing-to-engine-mounting flange (top right side facing the bell housing). Should be located similarly to this picture. As unclemat indicates, you'll have to copy the number and search for the right MY/Version. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) All you need to do is drill out the hole in the bottom of the knob far enough for the reverse lockout to fit up inside. Measure the diameter of the reverse lockout and then how deep it is to the flare and then drill out the MOMO to that diameter and that depth. The threads go really far up inside so this should work. I was planning on doing this but just never did so I purchased a Cobb Knob instead. I wrote up someplace on the forum exactly what to do, so if you look at that and look at the pictures of Hammers drill job on his knob you will see just exactly how to do it. I would take it to a machine shop and have them do it or use a drill press of some sort. Hope that helps Edited May 19, 2013 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wichitalegacy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 any of you guys consider a one piece driveshaft? Thinking that would be the way to go . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I like the idea of the two-piece. Handles torque spikes to the driveline better IMO and helps isolates the rear drivetrain vibration from the rest of the car - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wichitalegacy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 So The stock will handle around 550whp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 (edited) um .. well 550 whp yes .. tripple disc ceramic clutch dumpage at 8000 rpm with 240 hp no. Edited January 24, 2012 by frank_ster Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08lgt317hp Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I never had a problem with my stock driveshaft 560 whp with a carbon triple disk leaving the line at 6500 rpm making 15lbs of boost. my tranny didn't like me anymore but the driveshaft was fine lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 ok guys. I'm picking up a wrx that has a 6spd swap done to it so I can swap trannys out of it into my lgt. Is there any stamps in the tranny to tell what year it came out of? Thanks Super 6 speed decoder ring: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1225160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Nice. Downloaded those for posterity's sake. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkChief22 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 so what im getting is my 06 spec b has a 4.11 rear differential (R160)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 (edited) Quoting a couple things from earlier in the thread... For clarification, the stock mount will "work". As in the car will drive. The issue I found was that when getting into first or reverse I had lots of shuddering and clunking from the rear diff. Initially I thought it was my clutch but after narrowing the clunk down to the diff, I looked up the part number, saw it was different and ordered/installed it. In the short trip from one shop to the body shop for other work, I had no clunks. I will do more testing after the car returns. I used the R160 mount. You can tell because unlike the diff itself, the crossmember looks exactly as dirty as the stuff around it: http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/6MT/DiffInstalled.jpg I had some klunks when turning sharp corners and accelerating, but those went away when I added LSD juice to the Extra-S in the diff. I still get some klunks when drag racing but not as much. So I wonder if switching mounts would get rid of the last of my klunks. The first time I launched, I was sure I'd blown an axle or three. Vrooom-screeech-BAM-BAM-BAM-BAM-BAM! By the time "holy shit was that an axle?" went through my mind, I was in 2nd gear and still pulling hard, so I kept going. I asked my girlfriend to watch for wheel-hop and she said there was none, so I figure it's the diff banging into something. Or maybe the transmission itself, but it sounds like it's coming from the back of the car. Mine looked just exactly like this and it was a new one for a spec B. Spec B rear diff mount part number is 41310ag040 http://gallery.me.com/gregnauman/100050/Spec%20B%20R180%20Mount/web.jpg A couple months ago I started getting clunk noises every time I started from a stop. Based on the posts above, I ordered the spec B rear diff mount, and I put it in last weekend, and it fixed the clunk noises. I gave it a couple of hard launches this evening and those were clunk free as well. EDIT: The clunks came back after a a while. I'm not sure exactly where they're coming from. Huge thanks to Citka for all the help with the installation, by the way! The stock diff bracket just barely contacts the underside of the diff, basically right in the center, between those two bolts that come out on the bottom. The spec B mount has a slightly wider and deeper notch around the 'spine' on the underside of the differential, so there is no contact, and no noise. I think that when I first installed the R160 bracket, the fit was tight enough that nothing moved around except when launching hard. But after enough of that abuse, some play developed, and every time the diff moved it would clunk. Bracket flex might have been a factor as well, as the R180 mount seems quite a bit stiffer around those two bolts on the underside - it's very stout piece of metal. I'm going to update the first post to point to this one, since between the three of us we've now got confirmed documentation about which part to use, and why. Edited August 1, 2012 by NSFW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Glad it worked for you. I think Kaos was the first one to try it. I ordered mine and put it on at install and I have never had clunking at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 shiny Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris6689 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 How much do they run and what a part number for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 The cost was right around $100, and the part number is 41310AG040. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hey NSFW did you ever check your fuel pump voltage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 ^ http://www.cars101.com will tell you whats in your 06 spec b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wichitalegacy Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 will the 2011 sti transmission work the same as the 06+ for fitment with the stock rear end? What about the shifter assemble? Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjweb Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 So what's the deal with the 5mt clutch vs the 6mt clutch. I've mostly heard that you can't reuse it, but this thread over on NASIOC contradicts that. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=872902 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 05-09 LGT clutches are push-to-disengage, and 04-?? 6MT clutches are pull-to-disengage (04-08 at least, maybe 04-current, I don't know). That guy's WRX was probably pull-style as well. You might be able to reuse an LGT flywheel and clutch but I'm pretty sure you'd need a pressure plate that moves in the right direction, and at that point I can't help. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't. The 6MT clutches tend to be stronger than the 5MT equivalents so compare specs before you make up your mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 So what's the deal with the 5mt clutch vs the 6mt clutch. I've mostly heard that you can't reuse it, but this thread over on NASIOC contradicts that. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=872902 05-09 LGT clutches are push-to-disengage, and 04-?? 6MT clutches are pull-to-disengage (04-08 at least, maybe 04-current, I don't know). That guy's WRX was probably pull-style as well. You might be able to reuse an LGT flywheel and clutch but I'm pretty sure you'd need a pressure plate that moves in the right direction, and at that point I can't help. Maybe it will work, maybe it won't. The 6MT clutches tend to be stronger than the 5MT equivalents so compare specs before you make up your mind. There are 5 speed pull type clutches. That is likely the ones you've heard can be used. Our 5speeds our push type, as NSFW mentioned, but no, the flywheel cannot be used with the 6 speed plate. Different diameter and bolt patterns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqc151 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) 12 pages of.... i cant seem to find the simple way of doing this. theres not one post with all the answers. there scattered all over the place... can the 1st post be updated with the correct info? (or more options listed for the 05+, not just newer legacy's) i have an 05 LGT with 4.11 gearing and want to see what my options are on what 6sp to get. (i want lsd front and rear) basically looking for an 06-07 sti trans/rear. but after reading thru this thread. idk if its a 3.90 gearing or 3.54 gearing. after researching i find the 06-07 both have 3.54 gearing. but here you guys say no. so this gets confusing trying to find the right info without getting to technical. so if wanna go the simple route, i can just swap in a 06 STI 6spd/rear diff/dss rear axles/clutch (which is 3.90 or 3.54 final drive?) and need nothing else? if i wanna do it all. 07 STI complete drivetrain - trans/rear diff/clutch (which is 3.54 gearing) also the hubs/axles/brakes... correct? will my stock driveshaft fit or do i need to replace that to? am i missing anything? do i need the STI brake booster and master/slave cylinder for either trans option? now what if later on i wanna do a 5x114 swap. which setup is best to go with? Edited March 27, 2012 by sqc151 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjweb Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Okay makes sense. So much out information out there. Every year seems to be slightly different. Even the local guy here in denver that does the swaps and builds rally cars says it can be tricky finding everything that fits perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfg22557 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Ill answer the one portion (or portions) that Im 95% positive about, only because Im in the information gathering process myself and dont want to misinform. Your going to need an older legacy EAT iirc drive shaft (which is shorter than our oem) due to the decrease in length between the 6spd tailshaft and rear diff versus the 5spd. Or a custom drive shaft with easily serviceable u-joints, as I come to find out that none of the oem shafts are rebuildable? (someone correct me if Im wrong) Also, as you most likely already know, you'll need spec b rear axles which are splined for the r180, as well as your oem 5x100 hubs. Unless your planning on swapping hubs which you eluded to. Dont think you need sti brake booster MC or SC, but clutch SC maybe. Dont quote me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqc151 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 thank you so much for that. i think the custom driveshaft is a better way to go to. ill probly get dss axles versus spec b axles. i dont want axles breaking on me after this. basically right now im hunting for a stock 05 lgt trans to hold me over till i can find a 6sp. or just keep looking for an entire 07 drivetrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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