AVO FMIC Install Pictorial

[NSFW]

I helped atc5 install the fmic. We didn't have to notch the radiator support like you did. Did you forget to use the spacer at the top bracket? (beneath the hood latch).

 

Also cutting the tab supporting the mud guard on the driver's side is unnecessary - just bend it some so it doesn't cut into the hose.

 

And dremelling/drilling holes in the beam wasn't necessary either (we had to use thinner bolts for that though).

 

Yes, I used the spacer at the top. I'm guessing there's some variation in the model years because I couldn't get all the core's mounting points snug at once until we did that grind.

 

You might be right about the tab, but it had to go one way or the other. I was concerned that bending it would cause paint to flake and later rust, so i cut it off and used touch-up paint to cover the exposed metal.

 

How did you tighten the bolts for the bumper beam? We were concerned that it would be tough to get them snug since you can barely reach either end of the bolts. It's probably do-able as the instructions say, we just chose to improvise. I'm curious how well it works according to plan.

[NSFW]

Shame on AVO for this.

 

For including the wrong size bolts?

[Guest]

How did you tighten the bolts for the bumper beam? We were concerned that it would be tough to get them snug since you can barely reach either end of the bolts. It's probably do-able as the instructions say, we just chose to improvise. I'm curious how well it works according to plan.

 

You cannot reach the head of the bolt - impossible! But because they were on an angle surpringly there was enough resistance to torque down the nuts without wrench on the head. Very ghetto but worked. It would help if AVO included properly sized bolts though...

 

...and did I mention clamps? What AVO was thinking while including totally undersized clamps?!!?!

[FireB]

...and did I mention clamps? What AVO was thinking while including totally undersized clamps?!!?!

 

And oversized ones too for mine....

They did provide me with both worm gear and the T-Bolt but the T-bolt ones were oversized for some reason...

[easy19]

x2. That's what I did. Very simple and effective solution.

 

Also, this install pictorial is riddled w/ pain in the ass efforts that the OP made to install this FMIC. There are many things that were unnecessarily done during this install (as eluded by the notes about not reading the directions).

 

 

define riddled and unnessary. sounds like you made undisclosed mods as well. I have rarely done a mod like this and not had some level of dicrepancy between reality and the written instrucions. I think the install is as clean as you could get. NSFW did take some "unecessary" precautions, but it paid off. it all looks right, and i doubt he will ever have any problems associated with the install.

[atc5]

No undisclosed mods to my install. The grinding of that pillar is unnecessary. The only reason I could see that effort made is if you didn't bend the two tabs on the bottom of the IC towards the two mounting holes. (Note: Guess this is an undisclosed, mod, eh?)

 

Three tools that will make your life easy:

 

One: Milwaukee brand reciprocating saw blades branded "THE TORCH". Made for metal cutting. Unclemat held the bumper beam and I cut the beam...took 3 minutes on each side.

 

Two: Cutting wheel and metal cutting discs. Harbor freight sells a pneumatic cutting wheel for around $6. Add a package of metal cutting discs and you'll have the nubby in the way of the passenger side piping off in about 10 minutes. Prepare for sparks...it's fun.

 

Three: Dremel with a killer cutting disc. I have this little metal cutting disc that I used to hack the crap out of my bumper for fitment. We took my bumper off about 9 times total and this cutting disc made super quick work of it.

 

Without any of these tools, you're talking about added install time. Think safety: Gloves, glasses, etc..

 

McMaster-Carr offers fantastic T-bolt clamps. The ones that worked best for me were the following:

 

Part number: 8946K32 Constant-Tension 301 SS T-Bolt Hose Clamp 2-15/16" to 3-1/4" Clamp Dia Range, 3/4" Band Width

 

Upon driving my car and getting an initial tune, I had a boost leak at the throttle body. Make sure you get a nice seal and clamp at the throttle body.

 

I could not keep my fog lights. If you end up having to give them up, it helps to have a pair of those fog light covers on hand. They are cheap from Fred Beans.

[NSFW]

The grinding of that pillar is unnecessary. The only reason I could see that effort made is if you didn't bend the two tabs on the bottom of the IC towards the two mounting holes.

 

Bending them up would just pull the core down, requiring even more grinding. Bending them downward however might raise the core enough to clear the pillar. That's an interesting idea. Too late for me now, but perhaps it will help the next person faced with the same issue.

[FireB]

Fortunately, I was able to keep the Fogs.

But that is the 08+ style fog lights.

I needed to shave a little off the fog light cover but it was possible.

[PhilT]

I installed the LED foglights, only 1" thick.

[FireB]

Bending them up would just pull the core down, requiring even more grinding. Bending them downward however might raise the core enough to clear the pillar. That's an interesting idea. Too late for me now, but perhaps it will help the next person faced with the same issue.

 

Never thought about that.

I was lucky enough to have both to be aligned correct and clear the tab on the first try.

Assuming that they have adjusting tab on the top, it should be possible to clear the pillar.

[Scooby2.5]

Anybody on Outback fitment, especially the fogs as they are different

[NSFW]

Also, this install pictorial is riddled w/ pain in the ass efforts that the OP made to install this FMIC. There are many things that were unnecessarily done during this install (as eluded by the notes about not reading the directions).

 

I could not keep my fog lights.

 

Sorry but I just noticed this and couldn't let it slip by. Some of that unnecessary pain in the ass stuff paid off.

[NSFW]

Overdue update: this FMIC works with STI-style turbos if you add some silicone bits:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/ATP3076/Atp3076Install_11sm.jpg

[lucas569]

that looks clean!

[NSFW]

Thanks!

[jmorris6689]

where did you get those silicone bits i need some for my 68hta

[NSFW]

http://www.racepartsolutions.com

 

They're easy to do business with, I'd use them again.

[jmorris6689]

sweet man thanks, looks like you have one or two 90's a 45, and a coupler, right? i wish avo included the proper parts to run a STi style turbo.

[NSFW]

From the turbo it goes through...

 

2" to 2.5" 90-degree coupler

2.5" 90-degree coupler

2.5" 45 degree coupler

2.5" straight coupler

 

Between the couplers I used "joiners," from this shop:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=209&products_id=112

 

And I got all of the t-bolt clamps from ones of those two shops. I forgot which, but one was little less expensive than the other.

 

At some point I want to have a custom pipe welded, clock the compressor housing so the outlet points straight up, and just have a single 90-degree elbow. I wanted to get that done this summer actually, but then I blew my clutch again. Some day, maybe.

[praedet]

I recommend some of the constant pressure worm drives from McMaster...

 

They will work better and last longer

[jmorris6689]

yea i would have my turbo job all said and done if my clutch hadent of blown too. thanks for all the info

[Th3Franz]

Finished installing mine this past weekend.. the hoses were 1/8" smaller than the pipes which made it challenging to slide them in, even with lube.

 

The charge pipe going to the throttle body does fit weird.. the rubber hose wants to rub on the front of the timing cover so I cut a spare silicone hose to space between the bolt head and the AVO hose.

 

The core fit well with no grinding the rad support. The spacers and bolts to hold the bumper beam were a real pain though.. ratchet wrench helped a lot though except I couldn't get the inside bolt tightened.

 

I removed the BPV hose and cut it with a band saw... was a pain to remove and a bigger pain to put back in and get a hose clamp on it to hold it onto the inlet.

 

Took a lot more time to install than I anticipated but got it done.

[Scooby2.5]

where the bolt goes through the timing cover get a allen headed button bolt.

 

Thats what I did to cut down on the wear.

 

I covered everything up and cut that BOV hose with a dremmel while on the car, worked pretty well.

 

Glad you got it in.

[itsme]

where the bolt goes through the timing cover get a allen headed button bolt.

 

Thats what I did to cut down on the wear.

 

I covered everything up and cut that BOV hose with a dremmel while on the car, worked pretty well.

 

Glad you got it in.

Yes, the timing cover bolt is M6-1.0x45 I include it with my kits for extra clearance. Bryan

[Th3Franz]

Good to know, thanks Bryan. When I do my turbo swap in a week or two I'll take off the throttle body pipe and sawp the timing cover bolt. I also plan to wrap the pipe in heat reflecting tape.