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AVO FMIC Install Pictorial


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Great things about working in TMWTL Citka's shop:

 

  • torch
  • welding gloves
  • TMWTL Citka, who has ideas like, "We could cut that with a knife. If we heat it up. A lot."

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2069.jpg

 

I took this picture from the passenger side of the car. That's the intake manifold on the right, the BPV flange on the left, and the blue in the background is the coupler that joins the last section of FMIC pipe to the throttle body.

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So, about that the turbo outlet flange... If I was smart, I would have zoomed out enough to show that the other mounting holes were lined up perfectly. Both were drilled out about 1/16" oversize to allow us to attach it with both mounting bolts (at the same time).

 

AVO, please note: this needs fixing.

 

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2061-1.jpg

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Citka also opened it up about a millimeter all the way around, to form a more perfect union with the turbo outlet.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2075.jpg

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The bottom of the elbow on the left had to be trimmed to prevent the hood from pressing down on the AVO logo.

On the right you can just barely see the elbow between the factory BPV tube and the BPV itself.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2076.jpg

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You could probably remove that pillar altogether and not affect anything, I would be more concerned about losing the towing eye.

 

I wouldn't want to remove it... I think its job is to prevent the hood latch from getting pushed downward when you shut the hood. If removed, it might be hard to get it to latch. Especially after a few good hard slams. :)

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Yeah, if I knew what this was going to be like, into I might have just bought a top-mount. :) But the installation only has to happen once (knock on wood) and I plan to drive it for another 10 years or so.

 

Is it any easier with the other kits? I get the impression that they all have significant challenges associated with them. Subaru didn't go out of their way to leave clean paths of all of the necessary plumbing.

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they all have their ups and downs but ive never seen one to this extent but then again maybe people never pointed the finer details...

 

when i did my clutch i thought it was going to be easy, it was a nightmare!

 

so much so that i wont write about it! lol...

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Yeah, I think it would be a mistake to assume that they're easier just because nobody has done this sort of write-up for them. It would be interesting to see a play-by-play of the Perrin, WBR, and XO2 kits. And Cobb's too, when it comes out.

 

When I started researching FMICs here, I read a lot more bad than good about Perrin's kit, and it looks like one of the simpler designs, since it comes with its own replacement for the bumper beam. XO2 is a revised WRX/STI kit, so I'm guessing it's got quirks of its own. The Cobb kit isn't out yet of course, but since their plumbing follows roughly the same paths, I'm sure it requires many of the same changes.

 

I really don't mean to badmouth any of them though, not even AVO. The fundamental problem with FMIC kits is that Subaru didn't plan for them. :)

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AVO provides standoffs to move the bumper beam about an inch forward.

 

Shown below is a geometry problem which results from these spacers not reading the instructions.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2090.jpg

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We held that up to the car, realized it wouldn't fit, then read the instructions, which suggested leaving everything loose at first, then snugging things down. Apparently the idea is to have the bolts and spacers all parallel to each other when you put the pieces together, which means having everything very loosely fitted. Then tighten things up so that the spacers stay parallel. They won't fit flush against the bumper beam, but that's no big deal. However it does seem like it would be a real pain to tighten up the bolts in the spacers, since when those black brackets are mounted to the car, you can't reach the bolts.

 

But if the holes are slotted, everything can line up nicely...

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2092.jpg

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I think the bumper went on and off 4-5 times while I marked and trimmed and marked and trimmed and...

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2097.jpg

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2100.jpg

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And some trimming of the undertray... most of the hose length seen in the second picture was interfering with the undertray before trimming.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2101.jpg

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2102.jpg

 

It was sooooo nice to have the car lifted for this stuff.

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Huge, huge thank-you to Citka and Easy19 for the shop, the tools and all of their help and experience. Having done very little car work until now, I'd have really struggled do pull this off on my own.

 

Any questions?

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well done, looks sick. thanks for the detailed write up, made me see all that is involved in a FMIC. I think TMIC is the furthest i'll go (when I go stage 2 eventually) ... too bad I wasnt able to pick one up when this huge perrin sale was going on.

 

does the engine cover go back on?

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The engine cover is off right now, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. The far end of it was actually supported by the stock IC, so it would take some creativity to mount it now. I like the idea of cutting off the section that framed the stock IC and mounting the rest of it though.

 

This has also been on my mind a lot lately... (but, in black)

http://www.subtle-solutions.com/29.html

 

http://www.subtle-solutions.com/resources/_wsb_600x337_P1080556.jpg

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