SWP XT

Quick update -- -The XT was great again -- Motor runs strong has like 15k on it since the rebuild. I never ended up selling it and it as just over 70k on it now.. Its coming apart now due to a stupid clutch fork failure. What a royal waste of time to replace a $25 part. I always try to do the right thing and replace every foreseeable part when the car is in pieces - guess i missed one. I think the time is near for the car to go to its next owner.. If anyone knows anyone looking for a beautiful 09 White OBXT Stage 3 that is clean let me know.

I would just get the OEM clutch vs the exedy if they are the same. The OEM clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing is less than $300. I'm looking at the SPEC 2+ clutch. if that's $500 I'm fine with spending a couple hundred bucks in the spirit of doing what's right for the next owner. My factory clutch held the power without issue unless you were beating the hell out of it on a hot day. If its 95 degrees out and you were taking some launches and really pushing the car and shifting a lot you could get some slip on the 3/4 shift and toward peak power in 4th. Daily driving and mashing the throttle once you were already rolling to pass some cars on the highway or a couple hard downshifts to blow by someone or just have some fun were not a problem. That being said a couple hundred bucks to make that concern go away would be worth it so long as the drivability doesn't become miserable. Personally as a DD I would much rather a smooth and low effort clutch and know that beating it to death is a problem on hot days than live everyday with a clutch that makes driving in traffic a nightmare. So all of you Spec 2+ clutch owners how would you feel about driving it every day in traffic? Max Capacity - how was the spec 2 on a DD?

I'll check the availability of both. Thanks for the great info on clutches. I'll go either spec 2+ or the exedy since both are holding appropriate power levels. I thought the 05-09 didn't have the single mass flywheel I'll check mine when I get hone today. I didn't really pay attention to which one it is. That would be nice if I can just have it resurfaced.

Yes that's without the flywheel but resurfacing mine is easy enough unless there is a good alternative that isn't $1000+. I know the factory clutch can take the power as its been doing it for 45k+ but if a reasonable replacement cost wise exists I don't mind spending a little more to make it better.

The oem with my dealer discount is only like 300 with new throwout bearing. I was hoping for like a quiet stage 1 clutch upgrade.

Ordered the King Rod and Main bearing kits. (Got enough of each size to mix and match for proper clearances to the crank just in case. ) Added Rod Bolts to my list of regular parts to acquire from the local dealer. I'll order the rest of the stuff on Monday (clutch etc). Surprised nobody knows of a better clutch that is close to factory feel.

Anyone by chance know the part numbers for those or seen the diagram anywhere? I'll pull the Subaru diagrams later unless someone knows which ones they are. Also what is the deal with the inlet tear that's pretty common. I would think with 58k mine would be OK but I certainly want to check as I remember the AZP guys swearing at JaseJase's during the install many years ago! Also thanks for advice on Oil Pickup - Ordered the Moroso 24965 Pickup.

Yes JaseJase you are correct. I always get the topfeed and sidefeed injector CC backwards.

Back from Machine shop with update. Block and heads are all perfect. Crank was measured in all locations to be sure, block was inspected, heads checked for flatness and for excessive cam journal wear. Clearances for cam's is right on. Machine shop laughed and then asked why on earth I took it apart. So unless there is another valid reason not to do so I will be doing the following: 1) All new Main and Rod bearings (Probably go with a slightly upgraded like King or ACL - Any thoughts?) Cost is marginally more expensive than OEM seems like the right thing to do for the extra $50 or so. 2) I'll be replacing all 4 pistons and rings with OEM Parts. 3) Obviously I'll need a full Engine re-assembly gasket kit 4) The oil pickup was tested for leaks but I know this is a point of failure – How much more is the aftermarket one that allegedly doesn’t suffer this failure. Remember mine only has 58k on it. 5) New timing belt 6) New Clutch assembly (Stock at this point unless there is another suggestion that has stock feel) 7) New Thermostat What am I Missing? Other suggestions?

Yes Stock Fuel Rails and I'm not aware of an issue with the 09 rails but i'm sure someone else can chime in on that.

Running the DW740 Injectors and a DW Fuel Pump. Had plenty of fueling available injector duty cycle wasn't being pushed terribly at all.

Knock has been really non existent. I get a couple Single knock events at very low rpm which we tied to the turbo heat shield vibrating against the process west tmic mount a couple years ago. Took off the heat shield and nose went away as did knock. Put it back on and bent the bracket which worked for a while. Every 6-12 months I have to take off the heat shield on the turbo and re align it to avoid the clanking noise at Low rpm (from vibration). For some reason it always works it's way back and must be around the frequency the sensor is looking for. Who is derp? Tell him or her to PM me. My learning view is very clean. There Are two low load low rpm cells where the false knock gets detected. I had recently fixed the heat shield so recent learning view and logs had no knock.

Max Capacity is right - running a bit lower boost these cars are very fun and reliable but most of us have been caught by some kind of failure or another. I will truly miss the car in the end because its a real joy to drive. And its pure SLEEPER in the wagon form!

Unlikely to be out of round seeing as compression and leakdown were perfect on the other 3 cylinders and honestly cylinder 4 walls look more pristine than some of the others. This is why i'm taking it to the shop though - to be certain we have good hardware before rebuilding - its just not worth all that time and expense without knowing you have good underpinnings. I really don't want to do it again! I run my Cobb APv3 on the dash at all times. We have tons of logs and I run active display of Boost, AFR, Knock, Timing, etc. Its one of those pay to play kind of things. As most of us Subaru nuts with modified cars would say "Its not if your going to break something but rather WHEN!". At least the next owner will have one less thing to worry about for awhile (assuming it gets sold modified).

UPDATE: Motor goes to the machine shop tomorrow to have the crankshaft measured, and the heads inspected. Want to make sure that its 100% if I'm going to go option 1. If it comes back outside of factory tolerances we go Option #2. Not messing around here and I'll have an update in the morning to share.

Yes - its been a good car/build. I have no complaints about how the car held up over that haul. I've owned the car since 8k on the odometer so its been a good car for a long time!

I would have the machine shop verify everything before being re-assembled and then I would drive it as well for a bit to make sure it was good. I don't do things half *ssed =) Putting a $2000 short block in just because is a hard pill to swallow vs having it all verified and re-assembled with an already good block and all OEM parts. As JaseJase will tell you - I don't do things via shortcuts - not my style.

I originally was going to keep it but I just don't drive it as much as I thought as a non Daily Driver. Its a waste to see if sit in the driveway and not get driven. I would much rather see someone else get some excitement from it than it sit in my driveway and/or parking lot at the office. Car is a blast and as with all of my previous cars I will certainly miss it but I've learned keeping them doesn't work out in my case.

Very Funny! I had very good luck with the OEM clutch and wouldn't have taken it apart to replace it at this point had the ringland not failed. Maybe just another OEM Clutch. 45k of Stage 3 power and it was still grabbing but you can see the friction material has definitely worn down. I'm sure it had another 10k in it but its apart - make it like new!

Any clutch options that are more suited to 450+crank hp that feel like stock?

I can do the work myself with the help of a buddy of mine who is a Ford/Volvo mechanic. We took the car apart at his place since he had the hoist and all the oddball tools that made the job go faster. There is a place locally that will be inspecting the block, surely honing it, and checking the heads etc. We will do the tedious re assembly work. I was going to order the STI pistons from crawfordperformance.com since some others in the forum have posted the link several times. Can't beat $120 shipped for stock pistons and wrist pins with zero miles on them. I'll pickup everything else from the Subaru dealer so it's a full OEM rebuild if I go that route. I should probably post a gauging interest thread to verify there is interest before putting back together.

The inevitable time has come to make a tough decision about my Satin White Pearl 2009 Outback XT MT. Some of you may remember my original build posts several years ago along with jasejase and his 09 Spec B. It hasn’t been my daily driver for about 5 months now and in preparation to sell the car I’ve had some back luck and suffered a ringland failure. So its decision time – The #4 piston suffered a ringland failure and I noticed it when it happened. Car was driven about 10 miles after the failure and sure enough the compression in #4 was down to 45psi. All other cylinders were perfect for compression and leakdown so I pulled the motor to investigate. What we found is a hairline crack in the #4 ring land. The cylinder walls are pristine minus the normal Subaru engine marks you can see on the bottom of the cylinders. The entire motor is apart and its decision time since I've got to fix the car one way or another and it only has 58k miles on it. Here are the options as I see it: 1) Replace all 4 pistons and rings (I know I could do 1 but I do things right rather than to save a couple bucks). Replace all the crank and rod bearings and reassemble the motor. 2) Purchase an EJ255/EJ257 shortblock and just throw my heads back on. 3) Build the motor - One would only do this if someone was buying the car and saw this as an opportunity to have a built motor for a fraction of the cost of doing it otherwise. The car needs a clutch after 58k miles of which 45k of them were driven with 357whp and 370+ft/lbs. Clutch wasn't slipping but would be pretty foolish not to replace it given the wear that is present. The real dilemma is whether or not to go back to stock or leave it fully Stage 3. Now is obviously this would be the time to go back to stock since the motor is out and changing injectors, turbo, intercooler, etc is much easier with the motor out. I actually have all of the stock parts EXCEPT the original factory exhaust after the downpipe. On the other hand its a 2009 5sp Outback XT that is way to much fun configured the way it is now. You always want your car to go to good home where it will be appreciated when you part ways with it so I'm torn on which is the better option. The car has recently been running 22psi of boost (up from 20) and it had more guts but I think it was just a bit too much to expect from the stock motor. If I left it Stage 3 so that a forum member could purchase the car I would put the 19.5/20psi tune back on the car just so I would feel comfortable knowing it wasn't likely to jettison another motor. So that everyone has an idea of what the car has for purposes of making this decision here is a list of Mods to the car as it sits: Engine/Exhaust (All parts have 45k on them) BNR 18G Turbo w/Upgraded Wastegate actuator IP&T Filtered Oil Lines DW 750cc top feed injectors DW 65c High Flow Fuel Pump Process West Intercooler NGK Iridium One Step Colder Plugs KsTech Cold Air Intake (Stock MAF) with sock Grimmspeed Boost Control Solenoid TurboSmart Kompact Blow Off Valve (lighter spring installed) SPT 1.5 Cat Back Exhaust (modified at muffler to fit wagon) Poly Bushings on Exhaust CNT catted down pipe Cobb Heatshield Suspension: (All parts 40k on them) Bilstein HD at all 4 corners on imported JDM Pinks Rear Sway Bar Upgrade Rear Swaybar reinforcement brackets Front and Rear Upgraded Endlinks Brakes: (All Parts 30k on them) Upgraded to Legacy GT Brakes Stainless Steel Brake lines Stoptech Brake Pads Wheels: BBS SR 18” Wheels (Summer 2014) – Nearly flawless Michelin Super Sport Tires (End of life – Need replacement – maybe couple thousand miles left in tread) Factory Wheels for Winter (Clear Coat Cracked – like most factory wheels) Michelin X-ice Snow tires (Plenty of tread left for multiple seasons) Other Upgrades: Cobb V3 Accessport AVO Short throw shift arm Upgraded Transmission Mount Poly Shifter Bushings Tunes from EFI, Brenn Tuning, Tuning Alliance, & SC Tuning. 2” Class II Receiver Hitch Extra S Tranny Fluid Dealer Serviced (reg maintenance) The car will definitely get sold once I've put it back together and put 500-1000 miles on it again just to make sure its solid again as I just don't drive it as much as I should since its not my DD anymore. I'm just torn about which way to go given the situation. Ideas, Suggestions, Comments are welcome! If anyone knows someone who might have interest in this car have them drop me a PM. There are all kinds of options for putting this thing back together and I'm interested in the consensus amongst all of you (some of which may have gone through similar scenarios). I'll post some pics of the piston in a follow up post in the morning.

I'm the other car jasejase referred to earlier who had the absolute pleasure to work with Mike at Tuning Alliance today. We started mid morning and Mike took the time to really address all of my drivability concerns. I've never had a tuner spend the time that he did to get it "right". I've also been tuned by three other tuners over the last 4 years and while everyone got the job done this tune takes honors of being the most refined. I don't mean just a "little" more refined I mean an order of magnitude more refined. Those quirky hesitations that our 4th gen cars have are pretty much gone now. The power comes extremely smooth and pulls the whole way. I've had a tune or two that pull hard and then fall off the table and Mike's certainly doesn't do that. Mike prices himself at a very reasonable rate and as a result jasejase and I decided to try something new in the quest for the tune that best suited us. I know I've come away extremely satisfied and you can just tell that Mike truly wants you to be happy. Have you ever gotten a tune from a tuner where later that night you inbox lights up and says "Hey Jeff I did some extra smoothing and made some more tweaks!" Now that's customer service!!! Book your tune now - worth every penny!

09 outback xt 5sp. Now stage 3.5.bought it with 6k on it.

I'm looking forward to seeing this thread grow. A definitive resource like this will help everyone who is wandering the forum thinking they are going to make 400hp with xxx modifications. Jeff