Silverstar Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 I replaced the seal with the coverplate on. I did verify with a trusted Subaru tech that you don't have to remove the coverplate to replace the seal (at least on the LGT 5MT, not all trannys are alike) I used a screw driver and hammer to gently push one end of the seal in without damaging the coverplate. Once it started to turn I could pull it out by hand. I then applied a little bit of assembly lube to the outside of the seal and worked it into place by hand, being careful to only push on the edge and not on the inside of the seal. I ended up having to do the passenger side over again as the dealership sold me two drivers side seals. It's really a pretty easy job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 ^^ Excellent, thanks SS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlJNgmail.com Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Make sure anytime they pull the axle they replace that seal, PITA to have to back and tear it apart for a $7 part, not to mention the embarrasing leakage. Simple job, just use a seal puller to get it out (no need to remove the diff cover, most likely doing more harm than good), clean the mating surface well with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner, make sure its dry, and use something wide to GENTLY tap it in. I used a piece of copper pipe that just barely gets around the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NatesGr8 Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 pictures of the seal being pulled out/installed would be helpful. based on the puddle thats been forming in my driveway i'm gonna be doing this install very soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstar Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 I was going to do a walkthrough, but much of the same information is in here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108975&highlight=axle+walkthrough I found it easier to remove the bottom nut for the ball joints. It'll come out of the lower control arm with a little prybar persuasion Ignore the section about taking the axle nut off, you can get the axle out of the transmission by removing the lower ball joint and the spindle to strut bolts. I took off my brakes as well; it'll make positioning the axle easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 anyone out there know the specific part numbers for each side? I just ordered a set of seals and o-rings for each side, but i do not know which side goes where. Thanks in advance, Nate.Just picked them up: 806735230 = oil seal, right or passenger side 806735240 = oil seal, left or driver side 806975010 = o-ring ( both sides same ) Very hard to tell by eyeballing them in the baggie so the dealer marked the sides. It also jives with the seal/o-ring post in the first page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmrider Posted December 25, 2009 Share Posted December 25, 2009 Just replaced my PS torn CV boot and seals ( DS oil leak, of course it could not have been the PS ). No leaks after a week and 600 miles. BTW the leak came up after the clutch was replaced ( by PO so no warranty work for me ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 What order did you do to push and lock the axle back in the gearbox and get the ball joint back together? I'm struggling with this part... -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrad Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I did it this way. Open wallet, swipe card, sign slip, close wallet, drive away. Haha. You messed this up when you did your clutch didn't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 lol yup. I bought new seals and got them in but putting the axles back in and getting the ball joint back together is just teasing me -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweezy Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Ok so I know should of double checked this before i pulled it but which way does the seal go back in? Is it the belled part with writing on it facing out or in? I thought it was out but other things are indicating otherwise. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owenmaxx Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 do you think that seal can get messed up when your changing struts if you dont do it right??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Ok so I know should of double checked this before i pulled it but which way does the seal go back in? Is it the belled part with writing on it facing out or in? I thought it was out but other things are indicating otherwise. Thanks You can look at your old seal and see which side is facing out to know how to install them. When looking at the seal, there is a tiny arrow that shows which way the seal should be turning when the car is moving forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweezy Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I actually figured this out not long after I posted that question. But I do appreciate the advice and maybe someone else can find this useful. Owenmaxx I actually pulled the struts while installing new cv shafts and seals. I dont see anyway you could hurt the seals unless you pulled the shaft out of the tranny and dinged up the seal. You would have to pull pretty hard on the shaft to do this. Your biggest issue you might have is you will need an alignment after pulling the struts, unless you mark postioning of the alignment bolts on the bottom of the strut. Wish I had done this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angeltalin Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 Ouch old thread, I have the same leak here and I think its time to fix it...for the people that have replaced the seal was the special tool used and if not what did you use? Dealership is trying to rip me off on this job so i would rather do it myself. Plus its not that hard of a task with the special tools I saw in my vacation pics. I would like to know how you got the old seal out and new one in...thanks in advanced StageIII Cryotune-Kinugawa STS TD06H-20GTX 9 blade turbine, ID1000, DW65c, 73mm MegaMAF , GS EWG up-pipe, Downpipe and EBCS, FMS FMIC, TGV Delete, Brembo swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rweezy Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 I didnt use any special tool. It kind of depends on which seals your replacing. You have just the axle seal and then you also have the big o-ring as well. Unless you know for a fact the o-ring is leaking I wouldnt replace it. There is alot of damage you can do to the tranny if you dont do that part right. As for the seal itself at first I just used a three jaw wheel bearing puller to get it off since the old one was toast anyways. But I found later that if your careful you can just pry the old one out with a screwdriver. As for putting the new one in make sure you get the rotation right (there is a little arrow stamped in the side of the seal) or bye bye tranny fluid, when you seat the new one in. You can very lightly tap the new seal in with a blunt object i.e. a hammer or back of a screwdriver. Of coarse when tapping it in, tap a little on opposite sides, like tightening wheels or round gasket set ups. Otherwise it goes in crooked and binds up. Pay attention to how far your old seals were seated in, I didnt and because of that it was a lot of trial and error to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angeltalin Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Thanks rweezy for the help and advice StageIII Cryotune-Kinugawa STS TD06H-20GTX 9 blade turbine, ID1000, DW65c, 73mm MegaMAF , GS EWG up-pipe, Downpipe and EBCS, FMS FMIC, TGV Delete, Brembo swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heedz Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 The ring spring http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=72818&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319103669 Where does this go in our cars? Is it the void on the outside or does the sundial have to be removed like the wrx and put from the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 That spring goes inside the rubber on the back side or internal side of the seal. The flat metal part of the seal is what you tap on to seat the seal in the tranny. The new seal should have it installed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heedz Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 Yeah I figured it out the parts dept or techs had no clue about in on our cars till we opened the package lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggs Posted November 18, 2012 Share Posted November 18, 2012 Can someone provide insight on how to change these seals out? I had to change out a boot on the front, driver's side and when I was reinstalling the axle, noticed the metal o-ring piece sitting cockeyed. I didn't want to get too rough with trying to remove, seeing on my sti, I'd mod inexpensive parts and end up breaking something that was more expensive. Help a guy out, the car is still up on jacks. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways the Seven Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 I'm having this same problem. Has anyone had an issue with noise coming from that area that sounds like a bad wheel bearing? I'm hoping it's just a coincidence or something minor. -Brandon 2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3 1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhawk222 Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 I'm having this same problem. Has anyone had an issue with noise coming from that area that sounds like a bad wheel bearing? I'm hoping it's just a coincidence or something minor. I'm in this category...going to change the seals and rings first because they are the cheapest, then I'll change the bearing and the axle on the driver side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhawk222 Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I'm starting to believe my problem is a bad driver side axle. While under the car I noticed a cut on the axle boot and grease on various subframe parts. My noise I believe might be the grinding from the loss of grease. I'll know more when I swap out the axle and wheel bearing tomorrow or Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways the Seven Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Be careful with that seal. I screwed mine up putting the axle back in (apparently) and it's leaking like crazy. -Brandon 2007 Chevrolet Suburban LT3 1981 Chevrolet C10 LWB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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