BigBad Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 can't we just use any coolant that's safe for aluminum? plenty of other car brands make aluminum engines and radiators.. There is see post #38 "Peak Global Lifetime coolant". Also see Post #8 of this past thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46625&highlight=peak+global+lifetime+coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I stopped in to talk to my master tech and wish him a Happy New Year. The topic of coolant change came up and I asked him what was the best way to get as much of the old coolant out as possible and this is the process that he uses. Buy:A new gasket for your thermostat housing,1 gallon of the Subaru coolant (2 gals of the super long life coolant),1 gallon of distilled water not required if you go the super long coolant route),1 container (4oz) Subaru Coolant Conditioner [*]Remove the lower engine cover [*]Undo the top radiator hose from the radiator [*]Undo the thermostat housing, remove it from the block, being sure to note the orientation of the thermostat (there's a detent/mark on it) [*]Remove the coolant filler tank cap (above the left cylinder bank) [*]Allow the coolant to drain as completely as possible from the thermostat housing. [*]Reseat the thermostat and then reattach the housing using the new gasket [*]Leaving the coolant filler tank cap off, load the coolant through the upper radiator hose until it fills the coolant filler tank up to the neck, then put the cap back on [*]Continue to fill through the radiator hose until the fluid starts to flow into the overflow tank [*]Reattach the upper radiator hose [*]Fill the overflow tank until the full mark is reached [*]Check for leaks [*]Start and run the car at 2-3K RPM for more than five minutes [*]If the engine coolant level drops in coolant filler tank, add engine coolant to filler neck position [*]If the engine coolant level drops from “FULL” level of reservoir tank, add engine coolant to “FULL” level [*]Recheck for leaks [*]Reattach the lower engine cover and operate as normal HTH. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Sounds good. I've always removed the thermostat cover myself - easier than trying to remove engine block plugs. I also like to flush things out with a garden hose. I guess the wisdom of that depends on how clean your water is - mine is well water with very little mineral content. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iggybdawg Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I think I'll use the subaru coolant, I do have a pile of subaru bucks laying around, but I'd like someone else to do it... The reason I resist is because the local dealer charges $90 for an alignment and $120 for a coolant flush, double what I'm used to paying. I hope it's not the normal price around here (just moved from Nashville to Seattle) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper8406 Posted February 26, 2009 Share Posted February 26, 2009 I had no idea that changing the coolant was such an involved topic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Yeah - who knew? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Well, you know, most other cars don't have a "special sauce", and at least half the discussion revolves around it ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erickson00 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Yesterday I was driving home from the zoo and came to a stoplight; noticed a coolant smell and "smoke" coming from the hood scoop. I ended up driving the rest of the way home, about 5 miles on a highway with only one stop, and during that time my temperature guage crept up to the red line. It never went all the way to the top. When I got home, I took a look under the hood and noticed the upper radiator hose was split open right at the spring clamp near the engine block, and it was spurting out coolant. Today I bought a new hose, installed it, and poured in new coolant (Peak Longlife). I poured it in both filler caps, until it reached the top, and then filled the reserve tank to "FULL." I'm thinking maybe I put too much coolant in; that I was supposed to fill the reserve tank to "LOW" when it was cold. Question: What happens if you have too much coolant? Is there a relief valve or some way to get rid of the excess fluid? Is this even a problem? If so, what's the best way to fix it? Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 There is no pressure relief valve, but by the sounds of your fill process, you'll very likely have air pockets. This is the process that I now use (based on how my master mech showed me to do it) to avoid air pockets (read hot spots in the block and heads). Remember boxer engines aren't vertical like I-4, I-6, and other V-profiled engines. Air gets trapped if you don't fill it correctly. Process - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erickson00 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Well, I didn't have the ability to lit the car, so I could not remove the thermostat. I had read this entry but didn't understand how pouring the coolant through the upper hose was any different than pouring it through the cap above the turbo. But that filled up to the neck quickly and then I had to switch to the actual radiator. After I let it run for five minutes, I went back to both places, and the fluid was still all the way to the top. I will check it this morning before I drive it and see what the levels are, and top off as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Well, I didn't have the ability to lit the car, so I could not remove the thermostat. Huh ?!? You don't need to be able to lift the car to remove the thermostat. If you're super fat or something, you could jack up by the left-front wheel (so the tire still touches the ground, but the springs are decompressed) to provide a little more clearance, Clarence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erickson00 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I thought it was down by the lower radiator hose...since one of the steps in that process was to remove the lower engine cover. In any case, I didn't feel the need to drain all the fluid...it was still a nice shade of green and I have less than 14,000 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I thought it was down by the lower radiator hose...since one of the steps in that process was to remove the lower engine cover. In any case, I didn't feel the need to drain all the fluid...it was still a nice shade of green and I have less than 14,000 miles on it. Yes, it is by the lower radiator hose and you do need to remove the lower engine cover. I still don't see why you think you need to lift the car - maybe I'm in a state of blissful ignorance, never actually having removed the engine cover on my new car - any tips ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Finally changed my coolant today. No fun. Removing the engine under-cover was easy, although it helped to jack up the front of the car a little. But those OEM hose-clamps are from HELL, especially getting them back on. You have to squeeze the sides together with pliers and work em onto the hose, but it opens just barely enough to fit over the hose. If the pliers slip off, which they will, it'll crush the hose, or else go flying 20 feet. Wear eye protection when messing with these artifacts from HELL, seriously ... I woulda replaced 'em with the nice helical worm-gear kind, but I didn't have any big enough. Also, the instructions for re-filling (#77 in this thread) talk about adding coolant through the still-disconnected upper radiator hose, until coolant comes up to the neck of the radiator. Note you have to wait awhile for this to happen, because the thermostat (which you've already re-installed at this point), will be closed, so as you add coolant to the upper hose, it has to flow through the engine block and through the tiny bypass hole in the thermostat before the radiator level comes up. Anyhow, so far so good. But then the instructions say to put the radiator cap on and add MORE coolant through the hose 'til it flows into the reservoir/overflow tank. However, what happens instead is that it flows out the flange (on the radiator) for the disconnected upper radiator hose. What's up with that ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erickson00 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 There is no pressure relief valve, but by the sounds of your fill process, you'll very likely have air pockets. This is the process that I now use (based on how my master mech showed me to do it) to avoid air pockets (read hot spots in the block and heads). Remember boxer engines aren't vertical like I-4, I-6, and other V-profiled engines. Air gets trapped if you don't fill it correctly. Process So let's say the job is already done - my coolant level is full (filled to top in radiator and the tank above the turbo, and a little above the LOW mark in the reserve bottle while cold). The mix is perfect at 50/50. But i didn't fill it right, so I probably have air pockets. How do I get rid of them without draining any fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 So let's say the job is already done - my coolant level is full (filled to top in radiator and the tank above the turbo, and a little above the LOW mark in the reserve bottle while cold). The mix is perfect at 50/50. But i didn't fill it right, so I probably have air pockets. How do I get rid of them without draining any fluid? I imagine you could disconnect the radiator end of the upper radiator hose (with the engine off and cold) and see if you can pour in some 50/50 mix into the end of the hose. But I suspect some coolant will spill out when you disconnect the hose. But then you can pull the end of the hose a few inches above where it connects and maybe get more in than spilled out. Wait awhile as your pour it in, because the thermostat will be closed, so you have to wait for coolant to flow through the tiny bypass valve in the thermostat for the level to equilibrate. Parking the car on the steepest upslope you can find might help too - and/or jack up the front end if you have a floor jack. Make sure the heater is set to max. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 So what's the deal with chunky special sauce ? Did we decide that's normal and the cooling system will take care of it with the heat and churning ? I'm not sure I've ever seen a non-chunky bottle. Of course, I shake it up as good as I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 I know the manual says 7.7 US Quarts but if you do a coolant removal using "REGULAR METHOD" not removing the thermostat and block plugs..... how much coolant should I buy to replace and fill. I did this years ago but for some reason don't have the record of how many bottles I purchased. For some reason I odn't remember spending $80 on coolant! At $10 a bottle it can get expensive...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Just a suggestion, but why not just buy two "gallon" containers and keep the remainder for topping off. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 ^ This presumes two gallons of the new pre-mixed Subaru super long coolant, or one of the older coolant and one gallon of distilled water. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 1 gallon, mixed = 2 gallons.......plently left over. I changed mine yesterday. Use distilled wter or water from an RO tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I should have just done a conversion of quarts to gallons. I was OFF on my initial thoughts. 7.7 quarts is 1.9 gallons. SO even if we got every last drop of coolant out of the engine 2 gallons is still more than enough. I bought 1 gallon of Subaru stuff and I will use 1 gallon of distilled water! Can't wait! Also bought a bottle of Redline Watter Wetter when I got my gear oil today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 oh and don't forget your Subaru conditioner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 In regards to changing out the thermostat I haven't seen much discussion about it. Someone asked the question earlier and the response was that if there isn't a reason to chagne then I would wait until timing belt change at 105k miles. I agree with this thinking. Only thing that confused me is that I was visiting a Subaru only vendor and in the list of services they had listed coolant change and they showed a new thermostat swap with every coolant change. Is this overkill or a good precaution? About to do my 60k service and was wondering about that thermostat. I would think it would be fine for 105k miles. Your thoughts are appreciated...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I had started a thread on draining the radiator from up top, but didn't get much of a response. Rather than drop the tray etc., just reach the drain plug by feel, and use a 3/8" drive socket with a phillips head screw tip. Granted, you need to know where the plug is located and have a good sense of working where you cannot see. You would need to remove the air intake which feeds the air filter box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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