_karu_ Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 ^Thanks, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs6er Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Anyone know how to remove the coolant overflow tank on a 2007 Spec B. It looks like you have to remove the cooling fan shroud to get it out. I want to clean it while changing my coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 No need to remove anything else if I remember correctly. Just push the black ear towards drivers left and push the top of the tank towards the rear. Once the nipple is clear, lift up and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 28, 2013 Share Posted August 28, 2013 It snaps in there if I recall correctly. Move the tab to the side to disengage, then lift it off the support pin at the bottom. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustincredible Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Subscribed! Sold: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Spec B #104 of 500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs6er Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Recently did my coolant change at 60K. Worked perfectly following slimjoe's instructions. Didn't have the conditioner when I did it. Now that I do, and the radiator and coolant tank are both full, should I just put it in the overflow tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Recently did my coolant change at 60K. Worked perfectly following slimjoe's instructions. Didn't have the conditioner when I did it. Now that I do, and the radiator and coolant tank are both full, should I just put it in the overflow tank? Nah, I think I'd try to suction some of the coolant out of the main tank somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I did this. Left my coolant tank lid on, used a baby syringe that I picked up at the local pharmacy (they'll give them to you for free - just ask), and pulled enough out of the top of the radiator to put the conditioner in the radiator. Put the cap back on the radiator, dumped the coolant I'd pulled out of into the overflow bottle. Good to go. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 I just did this last weekend. It was surprisingly easy. The drain plug was really easy to unscrew and the coolant drained pretty quick. Almost 6 quarts of coolant drained out. The overflow tank was really easy to take out once you know what to do. There's no screw needed to be undone. When you look at the top of the bottle really close, on the right side of the top of the bottle, there's a tab (on the black frame) that you can push in (to the right) in order to free the bottle from the frame that it's sitting on. Once you free that side, the other side simply slides out. Once cleaned up, put it back in and fill it back up with the new coolant up to the "Full" mark. I used Subaru's Long Life coolant (SOA868V9210), mixed 1:1 with distilled water. I also put in the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (SOA635071). I utilized Lisle spill-free funnel to put the new coolant in and to "burp" the system. After using this tool, I really encourage people who have never changed their coolant to get this and utilize it. I can't stress how simple it is to get this done WITHOUT any mess. With the funnel setup, pouring the new coolant takes no effort! You can quickly pour the new coolant from your bucket right into the funnel and it goes in really easy (due to it's tall shape). I managed to keep just 1/3 of the funnel filled so that when the system is full, you don't have too much coolant on the funnel. However, you do need some coolant in the funnel while "burping" the system. Once you're ready to burp the system, simply start your car (and back it out of the garage for better ventilation), crank the heater all the way up (but shut of the A/C). Wait until the engine is on proper running temperature. Once up on temperature, race the car a few times to 3000 RPM and then run it at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. While doing this, you can hop out of the car to see the air coming out of the system and out from the funnel. You can squeeze the big radiator hose to let some more air out of the system. For me, once pass the 20 minutes mark, I can start seeing steam going out of the tunnel. At the same time, I then noticed that there's no more big air bubbles coming out, just constant stream of tiny bubbles. At this point, I know that the system has been rid of air pockets. Here's another trick. You probably know that water expands when heated, so, to make sure that I don't "lose" any coolant when taking the funnel out, I kept the funnel and the extra coolant on and leave it for another 20-30 minutes to let the system cools down. After it cooled down, I noticed that the level of coolant in the funnel drops down too, telling me that the system is now properly filled with coolant at room temperature. Now here's the final trick that's on the funnel's manual but people seem to overlook. When you're ready to take the funnel out using the plug, in order to prevent any spill from the radiator, simply squeeze the top radiator hose to raise the coolant level slightly up. Now, plug the funnel and let go of the radiator hose. When you do this, the coolant level in the system drops down just a tiny bit, allowing you to take the funnel out with no coolant spilled out from the system. Another cool thing about the funnel, you can now take the extra coolant and drain it inside another container simply by putting it to the container and taking the plug out. No mess! Finally, close the radiator and make sure that overflow tank is still at "Full" mark. You're all set! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Just my $.02, Last Fall I replaced both radiator caps, just because the car was 9 y/o. I figured it's cheap insurance after seeing what the rubber seals looked like on both caps. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyShackleford Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I replaced both radiator caps... Both radiator caps ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 There's two different ones. One pressure version for the turbo coolant tank and one pressure version for the radiator fill neck. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 2.5is only have the one, for the radiator fill neck. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Both radiator caps ? Sorry didn't realize you had a 2.5i Here's the second one on turbo motors. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4777.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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