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APS Inlet Pipe and JDM TGV Deletes Install


praedet

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I think I spend more time trying to find the washers, o-rings and bolts that I drop than I actually do working:redface:. This motor has way to many little spots for stuff to disappear into. Look on the cross member or on the floor under the car. If you didnt hear it hit the floor(probably didn't notie at the time); maybe you can cover the open ports and try using the compressed air to blow around the block and cross member to see if it takes flight out of there.
Let's kick this pig!
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Two catch cans on the way...

 

The part # for what I am missing is 16608KA000. It is about 1-2 days out at least :(

 

Here is a description/price from NASIOC

the 'stepped" rubber seal at the tip of the injector where it goes into the manifold: 16608KA000 - $1.89
:spin:
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praedet, your posts have been super helpful. Was the intake removal straight forward? I assume there isnt any kind of fluid draining or similar, just unbolt the manifold and the alternator?

 

I'm trying to install a new inlet pipe myself and I dont care what Perrin says, its almost impossible to make the recirc hose mate with the inlet pipe.

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I found that I had to rotate the inlet so I could lip the bottom of the hose first. A little silicone spray wiped on the inside of the recirc hose and the inlet recirc pipe helped too. I spent 2 hours trying to get that damn hose on and then it just poped on when I rotated the inlet so the recirc inlet pipe was pointing slightly upwards. Again lip the bottom first and then just push and it should slide right on. The Perrin instructions are basically worthless. Also before I shoved the inlet in; I put the hose clamp all the way up on the silicone part of the recirc inlet(around the opening that the metal pipe goes into) and snugged it down a little to prevent the aluminum pipe from sliding into the inlet while pushing on the recirc hose. Once it was connected; I just loosened the hose clamp and slid it over the recirc hose and tightened it up. I tried to work with the recirc hose with the clamp on it, but that was a total PITA and kept getting in the way.
Let's kick this pig!
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If you do remove the manifold, you need to drain some coolant. I went ahead and drained it all, but I think the manual recommends draining 3 quarts. It is not that the manifold/inlet pipe is hard, just time consuming and tedious. There are a LOT of connections going to the intake manifold...
:spin:
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I've heard of that happening too on certain setups, but that could be easily fixed/prevented by putting a couple band clamps around the middle body of the inlet to keep the round shape in check and reinforce the sidewalls. I'm pretty sure it can't suck shut if the sidewalls are supported and can't give outward allowing it to flatten out.;)

As for my reason for choosing the Perrin; It was thrown in CHEAP as part of a package deal I got from a vendor. We'll go back on topic now.

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Well, I won't be able to do anything w/ my car for a few days as it is sitting in the garage about 400 miles away :lol:

 

But thanks ;)

 

 

WTF happen?

 

 

BTW...I have the Perrin inlet with a 52lb/min turbo and it never sucked itself shut. I also have the AVO intake though. :D

OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America!
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Price was decent and after spending sometime looking around I convinced myself that most of what people had problems with was the install.

 

 

Yeah, but now that you're pulling the IM, you could have gone APS and had future compatiblity with a 3" inlet turbo :spin:

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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We got him straightened out without removing the IM. It was just a matter of finesse on the recirc hose; that thing is a PITA to re-connect.;)

My Perrin is fine for me too at this point since I had no reson to take the IM off and I have an AEM CAI. My new 20g tubro has a 2.4" inlet and I'm using a TMIC for this year, so it all good. The inlet will be the least of my worries when I go to a 3" inlet turbo, TGV deletes and a FMIC next year.

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true, but my recommendation before he started installing it was based on him wanting to go bigger power later.. hence why i said APS. couplers for both 2.4s and 3 inlet turbos, no chance of collapse save in a disaster and whatnot...

 

again, based on information that he was going for more later. Figured it would be better to save the hassle of a 2.4 perrin only to change it again later. Ya know?

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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true, but my recommendation before he started installing it was based on him wanting to go bigger power later.. hence why i said APS. couplers for both 2.4s and 3 inlet turbos, no chance of collapse save in a disaster and whatnot...

 

again, based on information that he was going for more later. Figured it would be better to save the hassle of a 2.4 perrin only to change it again later. Ya know?

 

+1. And even Perrin seems to be acknowledging that their turbo inlet hoses could collapse, as they have revised the design to incorporate a spiral metal wire in the silicone to reinforce it. Should be a good product now (or as soon as they start shipping the revised part), but the fact remains that it is still a big pain in the ass to install and you are committed to a single turbo inlet size (2.4" or 3") unlike with the APS pipe.

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All right, So I have everything pretty much figured out and ready to go back together except for a few questions...

 

Here is the stock intake. The nipple on top that has been cut was for the PCV, and the small one in the pic on the side is for the breather (I think)

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/PCVbreatherandBPVConnectstoIntake.jpg

 

The APS inlet only has one place for these two connections, so my plan is to tee them together after the PCV sensor and send them into the pipe. Does that sound right?

 

Next, and this is the big question. One of these is part of the PCV, and I don't know what the other is. I think the one on the right is part of the PCV, but I am not 100% sure.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/PCVandquestion1.jpg

 

With this short tube on, I am pretty sure the right tube would feed to the PCV sensor and into the turbo inlet. What is the one on the left :confused:

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/PCVandquestion2.jpg

 

 

Here is the breather tube. I am 95% sure the rubber tube on the bottom feeds directly into the turbo inlet. Is that right? I will be teeing this w/ the PCV line.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/Breatherhose.jpg

 

Lastly, here are the two connections on the back of the IM.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/TwoIMConnections1.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/TwoIMConnections2.jpg

 

I am pretty sure this first tube goes on the brass nipple.

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/Connection1toIM.jpg

 

And this 2nd tube goes to the plastic nipple. Here is a pic of the whole tube, and the termination at the other end...

 

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/Connection2toIM.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e257/praedet/APS%20Inlet/Putting%20it%20back%20together/TerminatorofConnection2toIM.jpg

 

 

Now, part of what is also slowing me down right now is my dual catch-can set-up. I am actually having trouble finding room for mounting them. One can will have the rubber breather hose (connected to the metal in the pic further up) connected to the inlet and the outlet headed back to the turbo inlet hose. The other will have the PCV routed to the inlet and then the outlet goes to the PCV sensor, then to the turbo inlet hose. So with the APS inlet the termination of my catch can set-up will actually dump into the inlet pipe together. Sound correct? ;)

:spin:
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