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Anyone with an OEM blown turbo please post!


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I burn through 1 qt every 1150 miles and they say its not exessive yet.

 

I use just regular 5w30 that they put in it.

 

I've done like 3 consumption test and have just given up on keeping track of it because if it blows I could really care less since I have 100k warranty and a long history with them over the oil concerns of mine.

 

The only way to get something done though is to just keep calling SOA even if its Daily.

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Oh yeah! Get this...I checked my dipstick after driving 100 miles into my 500 mile consumption test. I went back to the dealership and asked the service manager to explain this one...the bone heads over-filled my oil by over half a quart...during a consumption test! Conspiracy or "mistake?" Once they put in all six quarts of the Mobil 1 box I had brought in from Costco. Oppsss! Shenanigins? Now I have to start over...
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hmmm... i use castrol full synthetic 5w30 and a can of BG MOA every oil change, or every other oil change... and my car doesnt burn any oil.... as a matter of fact im going on 4500 miles from the last time i did a oil change and the oil still looks fairly new... its not dark, or thick.... i change every 5000... the last time i checked my dipstick read full... and i check it a couple times just to make sure... unless my dipstick reads wrong... and whats this i hear of needing to put oil in the oil filter before you install it?? i have never done this on any of the cars i have done oil change on... can someone confirm needing to do this?? i am worried about my turbo blowing because of the multiple people thats had that issue... but my cars going on 76k miles and still no issues (knock on wood)... the turbo is however pretty loud... i dunno if thats because of intake or what...
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Seems like a easy fix would be some custom oil lines with an in line filter.

 

Pretty popular thing to do on the 2.2/2.5 chrysler turbo engines I have background with... these are what we would pop in line for the turbo, and yes, turbos do fail often for lack of oil, dealer is no lie on that one.

 

http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/images/TU%2060-Micron%20Filter.jpg

 

I havent researched the subie aftermarket enough yet to see if they make kits for this, but none the less, if it were me, id find a way to toss the factory one, use custom lines with an in line filter like this.

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Now there is something that I have not heard about here... interesting addition Timmay.

 

Seems like a easy fix would be some custom oil lines with an in line filter.

 

Pretty popular thing to do on the 2.2/2.5 chrysler turbo engines I have background with... these are what we would pop in line for the turbo, and yes, turbos do fail often for lack of oil, dealer is no lie on that one.

 

 

 

I havent researched the subie aftermarket enough yet to see if they make kits for this, but none the less, if it were me, id find a way to toss the factory one, use custom lines with an in line filter like this.

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I did a little research and it looks like one of the main causes is the oem subaru banjo bolt is super restrictive... and if it somehow gets clogged it will starve ur turbo thus causing these problems... now with that said... fp makes a hi flow banjo bolt designed for fp turbochargers... can this after market banjo bolt work with stock turbos????
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... and whats this i hear of needing to put oil in the oil filter before you install it?? i have never done this on any of the cars i have done oil change on... can someone confirm needing to do this?? i am worried about my turbo blowing because of the multiple people thats had that issue..

 

I currently own 7 cars, I have the FSM's for all. Every one tells me how much oil the car requires including filling the oil filter with oil before installation. Some of my manuals like my 2002 Xterra tells me how much the motor takes with and without the filter. I dont think its a REQUIREMENT to fill the filter, but I don't know of a manual that says how much oil the motor needs without taking into account filling the filter, or at least telling you that it does take it into account.

 

My Xterra fsm tells me that if you dont change the filter, the amount is 3.0 Liters, if you do change the filter its 3.3 liters, and if you do a dry motor (overhaul) its 3.8 liters and that those are "approximate" values.

 

How do you grease the rubber o-ring on the filter before installation? Even my big trucks at work that require 20+ liters of oil require me to fill the filter full of oil.

 

Its pretty much common sense why you fill the filter with oil, although common sense isn't common to everyone ;) If you bolt up an empty filter then fill the motor with EXACTLY THE CORRECT AMOUNT (which is difficult) when you fire up the motor a burst of air is gonna fire through the filter. Im not sure if leaving the car sit for a number of minutes would drain all the oil through the motor and pool in the filter. But why take that chance?

 

I wouldn't say that is the reason we are blowing turbos but, if you don't, and the manual doesn't account for not filling the filter as well as the motor, then you don't have enuf oil in your engine (by exactly the ammount the filter can hold)

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Another reason is with a fresh oil change, if you don't precharge (fill) the oil filter, there will be a few seconds where the filter has to fill before pressure builds up to circulate the oil throughout the engine and up to the turbo. I've noticed the oil light stays on longer if I don't precharge it first (On my 04 Legacy L, but never did that on my 06 LGT). In the long run it probably doesn't make a big difference, but since the filter is vertically mounted, it's not a big deal. I would bet that most, if not all, dealers and other oil changing place don't precharge the oil filter.
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hmmm... thats very intersting... i never fill my car to exactly what the manual tells me anyways... i always fill what they manual says... i let the car run for a couple minutes... shut it off... let it sit for a couple more minutes then i check the dipstick... and i add oil accordingly... that does make sense adding oil to the oil filter... but when i had my acura this was almost impossible because the filter was mounted sideways... i guess this would be easy considering the LGT's oil filter sits vertically... i know alot of cars with oil filters that sit sideways... which make filling the filter nearly impossible... alot of cars do also give how much oil to add if you change the filter and if you dont... but in my opinion if your going to change your oil you should change your filter too... i guess i can start filling the oil filter... not any more work... i just never really thought anything cuz i figured oil would be pushed through the filter pretty quickly...
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2004 Baja (turbo) 67,000 miles

 

Spun bearing on the crankshaft. A new block and oil pump later $4400

 

I've owned 4 previous Subs,wife's car she has driven all of them over 100K before we have traded up. We bought this one used from the dealer at 34K 2 1/2 years ago. Regular oil changes, full synthetic, at 4500 mile average.

 

No warning lights, just a terrible sound and then it dies.

 

Any possible connection to the Banjo bolt issue??? Or just sh*tty luck

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hmmm... and whats this i hear of needing to put oil in the oil filter before you install it?? i have never done this on any of the cars i have done oil change on... can someone confirm needing to do this??

 

When you first start an engine after an oil change, there is little to no oil on the mating surfaces that are normally lubricated with oil until the oil pressure comes up. Filling the oil filter reduces the amount of time it takes before normal oil pressure it achieved. So the question is how long do you want to have mating surfaces rubbing against each other without full lubrication? If you are not concerned about the extra wear & tear then continue to not fill the oil filter before installing.

 

A few years back I came across a mechanism that would activate your oil pump before you started your engine. Thus providing normal oil pressure before any engine parts start to rub when you first turn the motor over. It seemed like a good idea for protecting your engine but I haven't heard anything about it in years. It may have been a marketing failure or just hasn't caught on enough for it to be well known.

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I would bet that most, if not all, dealers and other oil changing place don't precharge the oil filter.

 

The last time I had my oil changed at the dealer I noticed the mechanic did fill the filter before installing it. I don't know if that is the dealer policy of just one mechanic who thinks it is the right way to do the job. In any case it made me feel a little better about having them do the oil change.

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The last time I had my oil changed at the dealer I noticed the mechanic did fill the filter before installing it. I don't know if that is the dealer policy of just one mechanic who thinks it is the right way to do the job. In any case it made me feel a little better about having them do the oil change.

 

That is totally interesting! My dealer offered oil changes (only subaru recommended oil) for life. I wonder if they are smart enough to know to fill the oil filter first. My dad taught me some 12 years ago to always fill the filter first, I guess it just seems natural to me.

 

Also the manual is approximate amounts of oil, my xterra fsm for instance says there is no guarantee that these are the correct values, and to check oil levels based on the dipstick readings. BEST PRACTICES (as a previous poster said) are to fill close or exact to manual spec, fill the filter, then run the car for a number of minutes. Shut down, allow for cool down for greater than 10 minutes. Check oil on flat level surface, and add accordingly. Its much easier to add oil than to remove too much you poured in LOL :)

 

Everyone go ask your mechanics if they fill the filters!

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When you first start an engine after an oil change, there is little to no oil on the mating surfaces that are normally lubricated with oil until the oil pressure comes up. Filling the oil filter reduces the amount of time it takes before normal oil pressure it achieved. So the question is how long do you want to have mating surfaces rubbing against each other without full lubrication? If you are not concerned about the extra wear & tear then continue to not fill the oil filter before installing.

 

A few years back I came across a mechanism that would activate your oil pump before you started your engine. Thus providing normal oil pressure before any engine parts start to rub when you first turn the motor over. It seemed like a good idea for protecting your engine but I haven't heard anything about it in years. It may have been a marketing failure or just hasn't caught on enough for it to be well known.

 

Accusump I believe does that. It's I think quite popular add-on for wet sump oil systems.

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yeah my civic has a B18C in it and its a bitch to change not only because the car is low so just to jack it up takes a few extra steps. I had to change the alternator out in it last year and didn't want to disconnect the front driver side axle to easily pull it straight down so I tried to get it on out the top. It was a pain in the ass but I eventually got it out.
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Accusump I believe does that. It's I think quite popular add-on for wet sump oil systems.

 

Yes, the Accusump will provide the same benefit but the system I was exposed to years ago did not use an accumulator. It was all electric. When you would turn on the ignition it would provide power to your engine's electric oil pump, which normally doesn't get any until the engine is started, to pressurize the oil galleys the same way as when the engine is running. Whether that is preferable to a system that used an accumulator I could not say.

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Name: Martin Nawoj

 

Make: 2005 lgt wagon 5eat

 

Mileage: 56,264

 

Time Out Of Use: 12 days and counting

 

Problem And Likely Cause: "tech states that noise is coming from turbo and up-pipe possibly broken"

 

Modifications: zero

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes

 

Reason Given For Denial (if applicable): pending

 

Your Story: sounds familiar now after reading other posts. Driving to work, car starts to sound like and ambulance and cel and flashing cruise lights come on. drive to dealer in manchester, NH. i explained the noise, service guy wrote it down, was very professional. then he pulled us aside and said if it was a big issue to "not back down" from SOA and they would probably cover it. then things get juicy.they pulled codes "P2009, intake manifold runner control" and "P0011 intake cam position over advanced". said that we needed to replace tgv actuator(s) and do back-to-back oil changes. (they also noticed the reaer trailing arm bushings were shot/separated, and replaced these after a $100 warranty deductable).the under-hood issues would need to addressed as they "put the enigne and/or turbo in jeopardy". AND, as these were part of the emissions control system, which was covered for 3yrs/36k, it would be out of pocket. so, $194.21 for parts and $360.93 for labor ($555.14- 555...lucky subie number?)later, we pick up the car. driving from the PARKING SPOT of the service dept. to the STREET, the whistling/ambulance sound is WORSE than when we dropped the car off. my wife is livid, i'm close. bring the car back and a tech takes it for a spin. i think we all know what he said. now, the invoice i hold in my hand says TWICE that the vehicle was "road tested-all ok at this time". during this "road-test", the tech must have had some heavy-duty earplugs in place, or he was pumping jam'n 94.5, as the issue we brought the car in for was still QUITE evident. my lovely, wonderful, and above all pregnant wife had a few colorful, nay artful things to say, but i convinced her to just deal with SOA directly. ive done several oil changes myself, and gone the jiffylube/valvoline route several times. never gone over 4,000, usually 3,500. we have a 2 year old and both work full time, and hanging on to a thermal-printed reciept is kind of a pipe dream. SOA said bank statments(NOT itemized) showing Pep Boys, Autozone, etc. would be fine, so i think we are ok for the turbo(god we hope so). but, i kinda of feel like we got taken for a ride. Subie of manchester was nice, courteous and Scott was very straightforward, and they gave us a loaner for 4 days at "no cost"(09 forester, not a bad little ride), but telling us that we needed to drop $700 to protect our engine/turbo, and then as soon as the card is swiped, telling us we need a turbo? hmm.... i'll update when we hear back from SOA tomorrow.

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