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Anyone with an OEM blown turbo please post!


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Jerry D. I'm going through the same crap with my dealer and SOA right now. Thanks for your post!!! Please let us know the '6 higer ups' you refer to and where you got their names. Are they all at the same address? I'm mailing my letter tomorrow!!
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Jerry D. I'm going through the same crap with my dealer and SOA right now. Thanks for your post!!! Please let us know the '6 higer ups' you refer to and where you got their names. Are they all at the same address? I'm mailing my letter tomorrow!!

 

Hi, sorry, it's actually 5 higher ups + dealership (addressed listed below). IMO, dealership not that important but you may want to cc them too. Not all at the same address either but the only one that triggered a response was to the office of Mr. Tomohiko Ikeda (first one listed below), that's probably the only one necessary.

 

Dug the addresses up on Fuji Heavy Industries site, more than you need:

 

http://www.fhi.co.jp/english/outline/inoutline/overseas/index.html

 

Subaru of America, Inc.

Subaru Plaza

P.O. Box 6000

Cherry Hill, NJ 08034-6000

Attn: Tomohiko Ikeda

 

Subaru of Indiana U.S.A., Inc.

5500 State Road 38 East

Lafayette, Indiana 47905

U.S.A..

Attn: Masahiro Kasai

 

Subaru of America, Inc.

Subaru Plaza

P.O. Box 6000

Cherry Hill, NJ 08034-6000

Attn: Customer/Dealer Services

 

Subaru of America, Inc.

Subaru Plaza

P.O. Box 6000

Cherry Hill, NJ 08034-6000

Attn: Mr. Tim Colbeck

 

Fuji Heavy Industries U.S.A., Inc.

Subaru Plaza

2235 Route 70 West

Cherry Hill, NJ 08002

Attn: Tsutomo Taguchi

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I'm at 56K, stage 2 since 38K.

 

Is the issue here MAINLY the VF40? Would I most likely avoid the problem by pre-emptively replacing it with a VF46, or VF52? That sounds much cheaper than tearing down the engine later looking for metal shavings..

 

Also - any ideas if a larger topmount IC will cause CARB/smog guys to get suspicious in CA? I'm thinking a VF52 shouldn't be a problem, since it should look OEM, and I can always say I replaced it due to a faulty turbo..

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It is not the turbocharger but oil lines leading to it.

There are "banjo bolts" with screens inside. One in line to AVCSs and the other in line to turbo. Search the forum for banjo.

If it clogs it starves turbo from oil (any turbo) the turbo dies.

If it clogs it means you are using wrong oil or you change oil not often enough.

 

Krzys

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It is not the turbocharger but oil lines leading to it.

There are "banjo bolts" with screens inside. One in line to AVCSs and the other in line to turbo. Search the forum for banjo.

If it clogs it starves turbo from oil (any turbo) the turbo dies.

If it clogs it means you are using wrong oil or you change oil not often enough.

 

Krzys

 

 

Thanks, Krzys. I did know about the banjo bolts (at least the one to the turbo). I saw someone say that they got a VF46 to avoid the problems with the VF40, so I thought maybe there's also a problem with the VF40?

 

I've been using Pennzoil Platinum (synthetic), 3500-3750 OCI (only once did I go over that at around 4300). Usually when I check my oil, it's full...

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I'm picking up an '05 w/ 70,000 miles and these horror stories are a making me a bit skeptical. i'm getting an extended warranty from my dads subaru dealership, which covers the turbo for 4/48,000 more but is there anything I can do in the interim to possibly avoid any issues?
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Quick search of the banjo bolt filter thread would be enlightening. Get it cleaned or removed by the dealer. The turbos are fine. The filter is the killer and is the cause of all of this - the David to the SOA Goliath.

 

[quote name=m

attaleao]I'm picking up an '05 w/ 70,000 miles and these horror stories are a making me a bit skeptical. i'm getting an extended warranty from my dads subaru dealership, which covers the turbo for 4/48,000 more but is there anything I can do in the interim to possibly avoid any issues?

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Quick search of the banjo bolt filter thread would be enlightening. Get it cleaned or removed by the dealer. The turbos are fine. The filter is the killer and is the cause of all of this - the David to the SOA Goliath.

 

So just ask them to remove the banjo bolt filter, got it. I'll look into doing that before I drive it off the lot.

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I think that removing filters in banjo bolts solves only immediate manifestation of the problem without touching the root cause. There is not supposed to be anything clogging the filters in the first place.

Sludge will gut something else.

 

Krzys

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if you remove that filter then the sludge just goes into the turbo instead of being blocked which then I'm sure will eventually still cause a failure. They should make that filter be cleaned and or replace the bolts every oil change and that probably 100% will solve the problem.

 

We are talking about a part that for them probably cost about 15 cents to make but is costing them 10000x the parts cost in repairs they are having to perform.

 

Its already pathetic enough that we have to wait 1 hr just for a damn oil change whats one more step of them replacing the bolts gonna take?? ~5 minutes..

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Its already pathetic enough that we have to wait 1 hr just for a damn oil change whats one more step of them replacing the bolts gonna take?? ~5 minutes..

 

For those who have checked/changed the bolt - how long did it take you (starting from a completely assembled car)?

 

Maybe I'm misremembering, but I thought the bolt was in a really awkward location, and hard to get to - IF you can get to it at all with regular tools..

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Its already pathetic enough that we have to wait 1 hr just for a damn oil change whats one more step of them replacing the bolts gonna take?? ~5 minutes..

 

For those who have checked/changed the bolt - how long did it take you (starting from a completely assembled car)?

 

Maybe I'm misremembering, but I thought the bolt was in a really awkward location, and hard to get to - IF you can get to it at all with regular tools..

 

All the dealers I've spoken with quote 1-2 hours labor just to check the banjo bolt. :eek: It appears to be buried pretty well and is not an easy check when doing an oil change. That makes it a major design fault by Subaru. If a part needs to use a filter it should be easily checkable for clogging, cleaning or replacement. :mad:

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All the dealers I've spoken with quote 1-2 hours labor just to check the banjo bolt. :eek: It appears to be buried pretty well and is not an easy check when doing an oil change. That makes it a major design fault by Subaru. If a part needs to use a filter it should be easily checkable for clogging, cleaning or replacement. :mad:

 

I provided diagrams/instructions I got off this board to a Subaru-specializing mechanic (not a dealer-all done with those) and he replaced my banjo bolt (16$ part) in ~30min. Didn't really seem to need the instructions either. Also changed my oil (full synthetic) and filter (Subaru recommended), rotated my tires and .... can't remember what else for ~180$ total. Don't have the work order right in front of me and I can't recall what the specific charge for banjo bolt work was. Doubt it was more than 65$ incl. part. ~2K miles away from that work and all is well.

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Name:

 

Make:

 

Mileage: 56'000

 

Time Out Of Use: 10 days

 

Problem And Likely Cause: broken turbo shaft - ?

 

Modifications: stock except for drop in K&N

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes

 

Reason Given For Denial (if applicable): covered in full by SOA

 

Your Story: Had to endure tear down by dealer and argue my point to both SOA and the dealer but I got it covered 100% I have used Royal Purple synthetic since it had 10,000 miles on it and change it regularly every 5000 miles. I had no receipts or anything but offered to have the oil from my car tested by an independent source at my expense and they covered the repairs at no cost. They did how ever continue to remind me how dark my oil was. So I took in a new bottle unopened of my oilo to show them it's dark to begin with. It was fun messing with them though. The dealer here is Wagner Subaru and they are very knowledegable and helpful and helped with getting the repair covered by SOA despite the dark oil drama.

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Great find and post man. I printed the pdf to take to my shop to ensure my new VF46 doesn't suffer the same fate as my VF40. I wish my 3rd post had been anywhere near this useful - very welcome aboard!! :)

 

Hey I found this looking on the web and these guys are sell turbos and use a special bolt with holes that are opened up. The links are at the bottom off the page.

 

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_SubaruOil

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Name: Jmad

 

Make: subaru outback xt

 

Mileage: 64'000

 

Time Out Of Use: 2 so far

 

Problem And Likely Cause: not known yet

 

Modifications: stock engine, only mods are coilovers

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): pending

 

The usual story: CEL, blinking cruise light. then slight rattle and diminished power. Local mechanic suspects blown turbo and after reading this entire post twice, I would imagine he is right. Will call local Dealership (Miller subaru in south jersey) on monday and plead my case. I bought my 2003 forester there, so they may be more sympathetic.

 

4-6- update - spoke to subaru and they are willing to investigate with dealership. Towed the car there this afternoon.

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Make: 2005 Outback XT

 

Mileage: 54,000

 

Time Out Of Use: 6 weeks and counting

 

Problem And Likely Cause: Plugged AVCS and turbo lines

 

Modifications: none

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes. No questions asked the first time. Had to provide maintenence records when the bottom went out.

 

 

Your Story: Turbo puked first of the year. Knocking and smoking bad when it got towed in. Parts changer noted bearing material in oil but they only replaced oil lines and turbo. Bottom end lasted another 2k miles. They have been trying for the last 5 weeks to build a motor for it. Last I knew the only new parts they wanted to use were a short block and heads.

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Welcome.

I have wondered why more engines have not been damaged.

Keep us posted.

 

 

Make: 2005 Outback XT

 

Mileage: 54,000

 

Time Out Of Use: 6 weeks and counting

 

Problem And Likely Cause: Plugged AVCS and turbo lines

 

Modifications: none

 

Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes. No questions asked the first time. Had to provide maintenence records when the bottom went out.

 

 

Your Story: Turbo puked first of the year. Knocking and smoking bad when it got towed in. Parts changer noted bearing material in oil but they only replaced oil lines and turbo. Bottom end lasted another 2k miles. They have been trying for the last 5 weeks to build a motor for it. Last I knew the only new parts they wanted to use were a short block and heads.

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The banjo bolt took my dealer "3 hours" to change. I am having some major problems with my car as well. I have an 05 GT with 41,000 miles. I started using Mobil 1 full synthetic around 8,000 miles. I noticed low oil readings on my dipstick around 19,000 miles. I had them start doing consumption tests. It started burning around one quart every 1,340 miles, which is just under their "acceptable" burn rate. A few times I did not even see any oil on my dipstick!! Two months ago it went through 2 quarts in 2,000 miles...excessive if I do say so. After only 1,000 miles on my 2,000 mile consumption test, I took it in due to...no oil on the dipstick! It burned 2 quarts in only 1,000 miles!! But wait. The regional S.O.A. rep says synthetic burns "1.5 to 2 times more than regular oil." I kid you not. My car just burned TWO friggin quarts in 1,000 miles. I don't drive a RX-8. He said the use of "synthetic and my 'aggressive driving habits'" are the problem. Ummm....no! Anybody have any thoughts? I have always changed my oil on time at the dealer. I even called corporate Exxon/Mobil about the reps Mobil 1 claim and they claimed "B.S." Now they switched me back to "regular Subaru oil" and want to restart the consumption test. I am so mad right now. This is ridiculous. Anyone else have these consumption problems with synthetic and any similar S.O.A lame excuses? Thanks.
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