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RalliTEK Lowering Springs - In Depth Review


sirsimon

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I have been over some really bad drops in the last few days and still havent hit the bump stops (i didnt cut them).

 

Also, how in the heck did you get your camber down to -.5 degree in front? The lowest the shop could get to is -1.5 and while the corner work is amazing, i wish I would get something less...

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Well, from what I could tell from looking under the car and talking to the alignment guy, the rear is not adjustable. You can try and even it out by loosening bolts and pulling things around, then re-tightenning.

On the front struts, camber is fairly adjustable. When I pulled my stock struts off, I marked the eccentric bolts and reinstalled them in the same position as stock. When the shop checked front camber they were even and within specs, so we didn't have to play with this setting. Not sure how much range you can get with the stock bolts.

 

You might want to get a second opionion from an alignment specialist and watch them while they turn the bolt to demonstrate the full range of adjustment. On the hunter machine with optical sensors you can see the numbers changing on the screen as you turn this bolt.

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Just installed the Rallitek springs two days ago with bilstein hd struts on my lgt wagon. I don't know who designed these springs, but I want to extend my deepest gratitude to this person. This is nothing short of a miracle cure for the lgt. These springs with the bilsteins have improved the ride quality of my car dramatically. Yes, I said the ride quality!. Handling and control have also improved considerably over stock. The car is so smooth on the freeway now I am in complete shock. I keep driving it over sections of freeway and roads that should produce the familiar harshness and out of control nervousness, but it is absent. I havent found anything to upset this setup yet. I was very close to trading in my car because I was so discouraged by the ride quality after 30k. After spending a year or so reading countless reviews I did not have very high hopes of curing the problem, because all the after market setups appeared to be stiffer with higher spring rates etc. and you can really get lost comparing everyone's opionions on this forum. The primary goal of everyone seemed to be better handling with little concern for ride quality. (Or at least that is what it seemed like to me).

 

By coincidence, I just got back today from LA where I was taken to lunch in the back of a brand new 7 series BMW over your typical crappy roads, and I can honestly say my LGT wagon has a better ride quality than this car. My car has a solid feel to it, and for some reason that is beyond all logic is tracking straight on the freeway at 75mph with stability that I never thought would be possible with this car. The nervous feeling of having to make infinite micro adjustments to the steering wheel is gone !!! There were gusty onshore side winds yesterday blowing 30mph+ and the car was not blowing all over the place on the highway like it has done in the past. I could hear the gusts and feel the wind pressure, but it was not moving the car off track.

I have done a couple of other tweaks to improve the ride quality and straight line tracking which is part of the recipe, but I could not feel the benefits as much until I installed these springs:

Tires: General exclaim UHP 225/50 r17 on stock rims with 32 psi front and 30 psi rear.

Precision Alignment:

Front camber = -.06 degrees on both sides

Front caster = 4.6 degrees left and 4.8 degrees right (not very adjustable)

Front Toe = 0.12 degrees left and 0.13 degrees right (yes this is toe in)

 

Rear camber = -0.3 degrees left and -0.6 degrees right

Rear toe = .02 degrees left and .03 degrees right (yes this is toe in)

 

The tires combined with the alignment add to the straight line stablity and a feeling of a heavily weighted steering wheel. I never thought this was going to happen either... The tires have single ply sidewalls so they are softer than most performance tires, and the rubber is a very soft silicone compound. The result is that broken pavement, ruts, potholes etc get absorbed much better and so the jolts are not transmitted through the chasis and steering column as much as the other tires I have tried (stock, michelin pilot, etc.) 50mm sidewall height helps also. I can only describe this as a very buttery feeling in your hands.

When you push the car to the limits, like in autocross mode, it will become instantly apparent that the tires are the limitation and not the suspension. In this mode I can see why people upgrade their swaybars a bit as well. Although the car does not slide out, you can feel the tires rolling under which creates a wider arc in your turn. Of course if a cop sees you driving the way I did to test this suspension, you will probably be living with some new roomates for a while.

 

It took 3 1/2 hours to do the job by myself and about $800.00 in shocks and springs. For anyone still on the fence, this is a very cheap experiment with dramatic results. Throw away the stock suspension and never look back !!!!

 

 

Thank you for the review.

 

Sean S.

 

http://www.RalliTEK.com

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Just installed the Rallitek springs two days ago with bilstein hd struts on my lgt wagon. I don't know who designed these springs, but I want to extend my deepest gratitude to this person. This is nothing short of a miracle cure for the lgt. These springs with the bilsteins have improved the ride quality of my car dramatically. Yes, I said the ride quality!. Handling and control have also improved considerably over stock. The car is so smooth on the freeway now I am in complete shock. I keep driving it over sections of freeway and roads that should produce the familiar harshness and out of control nervousness, but it is absent. I havent found anything to upset this setup yet. I was very close to trading in my car because I was so discouraged by the ride quality after 30k. After spending a year or so reading countless reviews I did not have very high hopes of curing the problem, because all the after market setups appeared to be stiffer with higher spring rates etc. and you can really get lost comparing everyone's opionions on this forum. The primary goal of everyone seemed to be better handling with little concern for ride quality. (Or at least that is what it seemed like to me).

 

By coincidence, I just got back today from LA where I was taken to lunch in the back of a brand new 7 series BMW over your typical crappy roads, and I can honestly say my LGT wagon has a better ride quality than this car. My car has a solid feel to it, and for some reason that is beyond all logic is tracking straight on the freeway at 75mph with stability that I never thought would be possible with this car. The nervous feeling of having to make infinite micro adjustments to the steering wheel is gone !!! There were gusty onshore side winds yesterday blowing 30mph+ and the car was not blowing all over the place on the highway like it has done in the past. I could hear the gusts and feel the wind pressure, but it was not moving the car off track.

I have done a couple of other tweaks to improve the ride quality and straight line tracking which is part of the recipe, but I could not feel the benefits as much until I installed these springs:

Tires: General exclaim UHP 225/50 r17 on stock rims with 32 psi front and 30 psi rear.

Precision Alignment:

Front camber = -.06 degrees on both sides

Front caster = 4.6 degrees left and 4.8 degrees right (not very adjustable)

Front Toe = 0.12 degrees left and 0.13 degrees right (yes this is toe in)

 

Rear camber = -0.3 degrees left and -0.6 degrees right

Rear toe = .02 degrees left and .03 degrees right (yes this is toe in)

 

The tires combined with the alignment add to the straight line stablity and a feeling of a heavily weighted steering wheel. I never thought this was going to happen either... The tires have single ply sidewalls so they are softer than most performance tires, and the rubber is a very soft silicone compound. The result is that broken pavement, ruts, potholes etc get absorbed much better and so the jolts are not transmitted through the chasis and steering column as much as the other tires I have tried (stock, michelin pilot, etc.) 50mm sidewall height helps also. I can only describe this as a very buttery feeling in your hands.

When you push the car to the limits, like in autocross mode, it will become instantly apparent that the tires are the limitation and not the suspension. In this mode I can see why people upgrade their swaybars a bit as well. Although the car does not slide out, you can feel the tires rolling under which creates a wider arc in your turn. Of course if a cop sees you driving the way I did to test this suspension, you will probably be living with some new roomates for a while.

 

It took 3 1/2 hours to do the job by myself and about $800.00 in shocks and springs. For anyone still on the fence, this is a very cheap experiment with dramatic results. Throw away the stock suspension and never look back !!!!

 

Lets get some pics!

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  • 2 months later...

So what sway bar combos are everyone using with these springs these days?

 

I'm noticing that if I'm pushing my exit out of a turn, I'm getting some oversteer with stock tires and swaybars. This is making me lean towards a 25mm perrin front and a 22mm rear.

 

Thoughts?

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So what sway bar combos are everyone using with these springs these days?

 

I'm noticing that if I'm pushing my exit out of a turn, I'm getting some oversteer with stock tires and swaybars. This is making me lean towards a 25mm perrin front and a 22mm rear.

 

Thoughts?

 

I am running the 22mm matched set from Progress Technologies. http://www.progressauto.com/products/searchType/vehicleSearch/year/2006/make/Subaru/model/Legacy%20GT/sfID1/127 I grabbed these from never enough auto over the Perrin because I figured a sway bar is a sway bar and these were priced very reasonably. Not to mention they also include the rear support bracket, which is a huge plus IMO. I have these on my Spec.B, and could not possibly be happier. The springs were a nice upgrade, the sways make a HUGE difference in the car. I have the front on soft and the rear on hard, and my car is beautifully neutral now. No more of the sloppy lean in to corners. I installed them myself and plan on posting a review when I get some free time. Good luck sorting this all out.

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I just put these springs on my car today, 2 hrs 10 minutes. Verrry easy suspension mod, with the right tools.

 

The ride is fanfreakingtastic! Perfect for the street. It takes out the squat and dive, as well as a good part of the lean in the corners. I have seen launches from Spec B's on Youtube and there is no way mine is squatting that much now, it used to though. The ride is not at all jarring. It's really close to stock ride quality, but without the squat, dive, and lean. But like many people have said, these shocks are not exactly perfect. I don't think I am going to replace them or the sway bars, because I don't track this car. You can abuse any road and keep it all safe without additional mods, the AWD on this car is fantastic.

 

My last car was a Scion TC. I had to stiffen it a lot to get it to handle good, and it might still handle G's better but not corner speed because AWD takes that. At the very least the LGT feels better, more secure. Throttle steering for the win! I had adjustable sway bars, and TRD Springs and Shocks. The ride was WAY stiffer then the LGT with just these springs. But on the flip side, the stock TC rode nearly the same as the stock LGT, soft.

 

So if anyone is thinking about getting these springs, don't think, just buy. You will not be disappointed. The ride is much closer to that of a sport sedan now. The only thing is the shocks are still not correctly tuned, but most can probably make do at legal and mostly legal speeds. If you track the car, replacing the shocks are a must because they are just not tuned for high speed stability.

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SirSimon's picture of the Spec B on RalliTek springs appears to be broke - does anyone else have a picture of these springs on an otherwise stock Spec B?

 

Since these springs are an equal .9" drop for the Bilsteins, is there a solution to get the ride-height balanced?

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SirSimon's picture of the Spec B on RalliTek springs appears to be broke - does anyone else have a picture of these springs on an otherwise stock Spec B?

 

Since these springs are an equal .9" drop for the Bilsteins, is there a solution to get the ride-height balanced?

 

 

I will try and take a pick...if I were to do it all over again I would have waited and bought some used coilovers becaause the front end does not look good with the bilsteins (I can see the yellow now)

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After 5k miles of settling:

 

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/marky339/IMG_0608.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/marky339/IMG_0609.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/marky339/IMG_0610.jpg

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SirSimon's picture of the Spec B on RalliTek springs appears to be broke - does anyone else have a picture of these springs on an otherwise stock Spec B?

 

Since these springs are an equal .9" drop for the Bilsteins, is there a solution to get the ride-height balanced?

 

There are slideshows here:

 

http://www.rallitek.com/raspforlegt.html

 

Ride height is fixed. You could trim some of the front coil (changes the ride characteristics tho, be careful!) or maybe use spacers on the rear springs. We do not recommend either method however.

 

Since the drop on Spec B is the same front / rear the rake is the same as stock....

 

Sean S.

 

http://www.RalliTEK.com

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There are slideshows here:

 

http://www.rallitek.com/raspforlegt.html

 

Ride height is fixed. You could trim some of the front coil (changes the ride characteristics tho, be careful!) or maybe use spacers on the rear springs. We do not recommend either method however.

 

Since the drop on Spec B is the same front / rear the rake is the same as stock....

 

Sean S.

 

www.RalliTEK.com

 

 

I fully agree with not trimming the front coil, but I've never heard of concern with using spacers to raise the rear - what is the specific concern with the shims?

 

Thanks for the link!

 

Squid

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  • 2 weeks later...
I just put these springs on my car today, 2 hrs 10 minutes. Verrry easy suspension mod, with the right tools.

 

The ride is fanfreakingtastic! Perfect for the street. It takes out the squat and dive, as well as a good part of the lean in the corners. I have seen launches from Spec B's on Youtube and there is no way mine is squatting that much now, it used to though. The ride is not at all jarring. It's really close to stock ride quality, but without the squat, dive, and lean. But like many people have said, these shocks are not exactly perfect. I don't think I am going to replace them or the sway bars, because I don't track this car. You can abuse any road and keep it all safe without additional mods, the AWD on this car is fantastic.

 

My last car was a Scion TC. I had to stiffen it a lot to get it to handle good, and it might still handle G's better but not corner speed because AWD takes that. At the very least the LGT feels better, more secure. Throttle steering for the win! I had adjustable sway bars, and TRD Springs and Shocks. The ride was WAY stiffer then the LGT with just these springs. But on the flip side, the stock TC rode nearly the same as the stock LGT, soft.

 

So if anyone is thinking about getting these springs, don't think, just buy. You will not be disappointed. The ride is much closer to that of a sport sedan now. The only thing is the shocks are still not correctly tuned, but most can probably make do at legal and mostly legal speeds. If you track the car, replacing the shocks are a must because they are just not tuned for high speed stability.

 

 

Rallitek & Forum,

 

I love these springs. However the fronts did clunk. I took them out and put them in two other times, tweaking where the spring was sitting. The problem is the spring has a very small gap under the spring where it contacts the bottom of the strut. To fix this problem I installed 1/2" hose around the bottom coil to isolate the spring from the strut. It fixed it! So no more clunk. Woo, quite suspension. No more clunk over RR and speed bumps.

 

So everyone struggling with the clunk from this or other springs, grab yourself some 1/2" hose and put it over the bottom coil of the spring. You'll need about 12" or so of it per spring, and some silicone spray to help get it on. You'll also need a friend of two, cuz it's a PITA.

 

To Rallitek; You may want to start selling this wrapped with either special spring wrap or tell the customer to grab some 1/2" hose before they do the install.

 

-Apexjr

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