LittleBlueGT Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 The spec flywheel is not better, it's lighter, which may be better for some. I don't want that light of a flywheel. I'd rather have the drivablility of a stock-weight one (or slightly lighter than stock). It the WRX fly turns out not to be light enought, then I'll install a light-weight pulley. I just can't stand the stock DMF. It makes the shifting too vague, smooth yes, but there's not feel to it. I didn't read the whole thread, so if I am missing something feel free to put me in my place. OEM 06+ rex fly is dimensionally the same as ACT 06+ rex replacement fly, either will bolt up to an ACT or bullyclutch (or whatever other manufacturers make a clutch for 06+ wrx). The combo seems to be known as the WRX clutch conversion. AFAIK the spec clutch is an LGT replacement one, NOT AN 06+ REX replacement one. If that is the case then there is no use comparing a WRX flywheel cause it won't work. If you get a spec clutch you need either a stock DMF or their (dimensionally the same) lightweight flywheel. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 I might also add: I have yet to hear of anyone with a LGT have a problem with CELs and a LW fly and/or LW pulley. I think that is just an old suby problem on certain models, and not ours. Either way, taking off the LW pulley is real easy, and is easily sold and shipped to someone else. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 If mine causes CELs after the flywheel and clutch install I'll take it off and send it to you free of charge. deal to the other posts, my thought (and this would need to be confirmed with SPEC) is that you could most likely get a 06WRX fly and then get a SPEC 06WRX clutch from SPEC and it would work. haven't heard of anyone doing it, but its probably possible if they're WRX LWFW is like the LGT one and "stock fitment" in that the clutch fits on either their LWFW or the stock one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 to the other posts, my thought (and this would need to be confirmed with SPEC) is that you could most likely get a 06WRX fly and then get a SPEC 06WRX clutch from SPEC and it would work. haven't heard of anyone doing it, but its probably possible if they're WRX LWFW is like the LGT one and "stock fitment" in that the clutch fits on either their LWFW or the stock one. A spec LW fly for an 06+ WRX should work just fine with any 06 WRX kit (in a LGT or rex, don't matter, just need both parts). Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 thats pretty much what i thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 Got my flywheel today. Can't wait to get it installed. I think I'm going to the track tomarrow night and we'll see how much clutch is left after that. So what's the best way to do the clutch: 1. Pull the motor forward. 2. Drop the tranny. 3. Let the dealer do it. I'm leaning towards the dealer so if anything goes wrong they get to fix it; plus it's still under warranty(and yes they know all about my mods). I've done 3 clutches in the last two years. I did one on my Porsche 944 and two on my Jeep(did the clutch, then did the tranny and just put a new clutch in with it). How much of a PITA is it? Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 I had the dealer do mine because they had to pull the tranny to fix it. I'm mainly chiming in here to give you a update on my Spec Flywheel and 2+ clutch, over 3000 miles on it. Car almost 78,000 miles. I love it. As I have said before, Subaru should take lessons from these guy's. In over 2 months I haven't missed gear or had any grinding going into gear. I have begun power shifting into 2nd and 3rd. The tranny shifts almost as good as a Honda now. I have disabled the seat chime, short of taking the battery out of the key fub, the car is much closer to perfect. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobum Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Someone somewhere said that using an 06WRX fly and clutch causes the clutch pedal to grab real low, like only a half-inch off the floor. Is that true, or is it all new clutches grab low to the floor until they've properly broken-in? A spec LW fly for an 06+ WRX should work just fine with any 06 WRX kit (in a LGT or rex, don't matter, just need both parts). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 No clue on the WRX combination, but the SPEC Legacy GT flywheel is the correct thickness and has the same pedal location and effort of OEM. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 either way the pedal is adjustable under the dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Someone somewhere said that using an 06WRX fly and clutch causes the clutch pedal to grab real low, like only a half-inch off the floor. Is that true, or is it all new clutches grab low to the floor until they've properly broken-in? Like it was said the pedal is adjusted under the dash. Pedal height is more determined by the clutch disc thickness and PP geometry then flywheel. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 meh, i don't necessarily agree with that. the total thickness of the package will determine where the pedal sits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 meh, i don't necessarily agree with that. the total thickness of the package will determine where the pedal sits. That is ture, but I would imagine that all the flywheels have the same thickness, within a very small tolerance. Maybe I am wrong, a different thickness of fly would definitely affect it, I just doubt that is the variable. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 there is a big difference between the DMF and the LWFW. its measured somewhere on this site, and I thought I had a side by side comparison pic somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rony Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 If I recall correctly the thickness difference is somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 inch. While this may seem like a small difference, it makes for a significant change in pedal location. I looked at adjusting the clutch pedal when I had the RPS clutch, but couldn't find out how to do it. My Car vBGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
groff Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 under the dash you'll see a rod that connects the clutch through the brake pedal and acts as a level. at the end of this rod right above the accelerator there is a push rod that goes through the firewall into the clutch master cylinder. this is where the adjustment is. you have to remove a cotter pin and bolt that holds a U shaped piece connecting the first mentioned rod and the second mentioned push rod. the push rod is threaded. you can then break the nut loose behind the U portion and thread it either direction to adjust the throw up or down, retighten that nut, and reattach the hardware. depending on which way you screw it and how much you may have to loosen the master cylinder so it moves away from the firewall to give you room to reattach the hardware. its kind of a pain, and can get very hot in the cramped space on the side of the road on a hot day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 there is a big difference between the DMF and the LWFW. its measured somewhere on this site, and I thought I had a side by side comparison pic somewhere For sure there is, but the measurement that counts (from the engine to the friction surface) should be the same. 1/2 inch difference would make the clutch not even work. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amason Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 under the dash you'll see a rod that connects the clutch through the brake pedal and acts as a level. at the end of this rod right above the accelerator there is a push rod that goes through the firewall into the clutch master cylinder. this is where the adjustment is. you have to remove a cotter pin and bolt that holds a U shaped piece connecting the first mentioned rod and the second mentioned push rod. the push rod is threaded. you can then break the nut loose behind the U portion and thread it either direction to adjust the throw up or down, retighten that nut, and reattach the hardware. depending on which way you screw it and how much you may have to loosen the master cylinder so it moves away from the firewall to give you room to reattach the hardware. its kind of a pain, and can get very hot in the cramped space on the side of the road on a hot day I didn't remove the cotter pin and bolt, just loosened the nut and turned the rod. Since the rod is under slight compression, it was easiest to push the clutch in and turn it while releasing, a bit at a time. You don't need to move it much, I probably moved it 3mm, which went from "on the floor" to "where I like it". Maybe an inch or so? If you want to raise the engagement point, make it so there's less of the rod sticking out into the cabin. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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