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Changing Transmission Fluid and Rear Diff Fluid- Notes


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  • 6 months later...
got a question...? what is the best way to try and change all of the fluid and not just 4qts. is it best to change 4 quarts at a time and then drive it and do it again for a few times? or is there a way to put the whole car up on stands and let it idle in drive and slowly pour the fluid in? any other suggestions? i am not to excited about spending $300 on a flush when i can get all of the fluid for $100. thanks...
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  • 1 month later...

Yes, as stated in the first post

 

"2. Filling the tranny, this took me a bit to find, I removed the engine cover, and the dipstick is on the turbo side, I removed this then used a funnel with a short length of tubing to refill the tranny. Glad I had this around, because you could not get a bottle down there and pour, too cramped and the turbo blocks your sight."

 

Just make sure you get a long skinny funnel.

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Can anyone clarify which fluids are appropriate?

 

I got an email from a local mechanic that said he'd use the following:

 

> > Coolant Flush:

> > Labor 0.9

> > 2 gallons antifreeze

> >

> > Transmission Flush:

> > Labor 1.0

> > 1 BG Automatic Transmission Service Kit (BG 106 &

> > BG 310)

> > 15 Quarts DEXRON III ATF

 

 

I then asked him if that was the right kind of ATF fluid:

 

Good Morning,

> I use a repair & estimator computer program called

> Mitchell 1 Ondemand5 & for your 2005 Legacy GT your

> Automatic transmission calls for the use of Dexron

> III. I always use the recommended type of ATF for

> all cars. Because if not you can seriously harm the

> transmission. Subaru Dexron III and the Dexron III I

> use is the same fluid. You're just paying for the

> "Subaru" name. Call xxx-xxx-xxxx (Farrish Jeep &

> Subaru) and give them your cars information and they

> will tell you that your car takes Dexron III.

> Starting in 2006 in most Subaru models for A/T they

> changed the ATF to Subaru ATF HR. Let me know if you

> are still interested.

 

Is Dexron III appropriate for the ATF? What about the coolant/difs?

 

I have an 05 GT 5EAT

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Just a quick visual for the rear diff...I bought a pump for an outboard motor that works great for filling the rear.

 

Just remove differential plugs (top one took an extension for my socket due to after market exhaust...not sure about stock), pump/fill until fluid runs clean out of bottom hole, insert bottom plug, pump until fluid comes out of top hole, then plug top hole. Easy as pie.

560551294_IMG_0160low.thumb.jpg.a686f637fd8237f6d2f3d82bf3c064f8.jpg

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ok went to the dealership, GOD they suck...the guy ddint know what the hell he was doing + it took 45 minutes for the guy to come out from the back of the parts room, almost left...anyway...he gave me...

 

1. ATF automatic tranmission fluid for the power steering...

2. 5 quarts of 80w90 (mopar) gear oil for the front and rear....(subaru doesnt make their own?)

3. coolant....

 

i thought that our cars take 75w90? someone plz tell me if i can put this mopar crap in my car, thanks.

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btw the guy was a total idiot, me- "how much does it take"? him- "i dont know" me - "does your computer show how much to put in?" him- "no....i dont think so..."

 

definately going to a different dealer next time...btw it cost me 96 dollors.

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Return everything you bought from this douche and go to Autozone or Kragen. You'll end up spending half as much.

 

Go with what the manufacturer's says you're supposed to use. Will it work?..sure. Will it work as good...no.

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  • 1 month later...

i am new to Legacy and i have question,...

i have a 05 Legacy AT, 4eat, and i want to change the differentials fluid. i read the menu it has symmetrical 4 wheel drive. does that mean the front and rear wheel locked at the same speed and spin at a same speed? is that the reason to use redline 75w-90 instead of 75w-90NS in front and rear diff? what will happen if i use 75W-90NS? thanks in advanced.

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my local dealership told me to use plain old 80w90 gear oil... i bought 75w90 though...

 

it will be more "thinner" in cold weather, but still reatin the same properties when hot.

 

 

 

been reading this thread... thanks for the heads up on the TIGHT rear diff drain plug... i know i would be under there cussing and throwing my tools as i would think i am doing something wrong.

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It's hard for me to believe you really clean out the cooling

system very well by just draining from the radiator drain plug.

I like to disconnect the main radiator hoses, pull the thermostat

housing, and blast water through there with a garden hose.

 

(At least that's how I did it on my old '97, haven't tried it on the

new '06 yet).

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I'm glad I read through this. I was sweating that this service was a big deal, Subaru sure goes a long way to make you think so.

 

I'm a machinist/mechanic, and always do my own service. And the dealer is the last place I'd go if I couldn't do it myself. Remember what that GM guy said years ago, "I'd give you the car, if you'd always bring it to the dealer for service".

That's where they make their money.

 

And also, they're not allowed to require subaru fluids, filters, etc., just that the replacement meet a certain SAE spec. Any top brand fluid of the proper spec is acceptable. Now if they create a spec that only their product meets....you're stuck with it. Like the "water conditioner". It's cheap enough, but how much do they sell now that everyone's scared shitless not to use that specific product or your head gaskets will rot.

 

And don't discount the "trapped air" thing. It's a big problem in many cars with complex plumbing. Large diesel trucks as well. The trick is to bleed everything as best you can, then heat-cycle the engine a few times. At first, just warm enough to expand the air bubbles and get the largest ones moving. But don't load the engine or rev it much. Make sure the reserve is full and let it cool. Check reserve again and repeat. This is a general procedure for any car or truck, not Subaru-specific.

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have fun finding a t70 torx socket!!

 

i have to order one one the net. no one sells them around here, except for the mac tools and snap on tools guy. and i'm not paying 32 bucks for a socket that i'll use once every 30k.

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