Car PC

[Stang70Fastback]

Centrafuse is really ridiculous. I tried the 2.0 version and it seems pretty sweet, but I haven't used it very much, nor in a CarPC. But from what I understand, there are a lot of bugs to be worked out. I find CF >>>>> RR.

 

It is a very sweet front end. While 2.0 RC1 has a LOT of bugs, the majority of these will be fixed in RC2, which is due out in a matter of days. Then it should be much more stable... theoretically.

[nemo]

It is a very sweet front end. While 2.0 RC1 has a LOT of bugs, the majority of these will be fixed in RC2, which is due out in a matter of days. Then it should be much more stable... theoretically.

 

That's what I've heard

[deltabi]

Interesting...

My main concern with the GPS was the hibernation issue. I figured it was a trade off for the speed of USB compared to serial. If there isn't a huge difference, F-it, I'll go serial.

 

I use a BU-353 unit with the Mac Mini and I don't have any issue with hibernation (I use a Carnetix 2140 PSU). (BTW the BU-353 actually is a serial GPS with an embedded USB-to-serial adapter.)

 

The serial port is not always present in carPC hardware: it depends on the motherboard and/or the case.

[salvi]

f1anatic- Do you have the issue with IG4 where it raises the main system volume on its own when speaking? I just installed it with CF and noticed that everytime it speaks it raises the volume of the system to about 2-3 bars then lowers it. It's a nice feature but get annoying if you don't want it that loud.

 

I have the same Bu-353 gps receiver and have no issues with hibernation as well. I also use the Holux unit without issues with hibernation.

 

For the person considering the VoomPC2, just go with v1. It's smaller and more compact. The v1 does not fit under any of the seats in the Legacy, I had to place it in the trunk.

[f1anatic]

I do not have volume issues with iG4.

As a matter of fact I have it turned all to max.

I am using it with the old CF plugin for which DEST is not working.

 

I had my CarPC out of commission for a few weeks while I replaced the PSU and I noticed the screen/display is no longer as crisp/sharp as before. Same settings, same resolution, same backlight illumination, contrast, frequency (Hz) match for the screen with Win Xp...it just ain't sharp no more. And that seems to be the case ONLY in Centrafuse - if I minimize and open up anythong else, it is all good. And I have NOT touched anything else on the software end.

[salvi]

I tested this on another machine and the issue was not present, weird.

 

I'm using the same plugin as well and have too noticed that the Dest button doesn't work. But really, you can do all those from within IG, so it's not really an issue.

 

Out of commision for weeks??? I could not live without it for weeks

In regards to the screen, are you sure you have not pressed the Night button? The one with the little Moon icon? That button makes the entire screen darker and darker.

 

On the same note, I'm in the process or having screen upgraded with the transflective upgrade. With this, the touchscreen of the screen will be replaced and the entire upgrade will be performed. I hope to receive the first test screen within two weeks, depending on the results, I will order 10+ of these. Would anyone be interested in these? I also plan to just offer the option to upgrade your existing screen so you guys don't have to buy a complete new screen.

 

I'm also working on getting complete TPMS kits. This will include the TPMS kit plus the USB board to connect it to the CarPC. You can buy both or individual products. This will be plug and play and you will not have to do any cutting/modding to any of the devices. Would anyone be interested in this?

[Stang70Fastback]

I would be very interested, though in all honesty, it's not something I can afford atm. But I definitely would love to have that system too!

[Vsick]

I realize I should have taken pictures when doing this mod. I will snap some pics next time I rip apart the dash.

 

Hopefully the diagram is self explanatory. If anyone needs anytype of clarification feel free to PM or post.

 

The door unlock wire is the black red/green stripe wire found here in this post:

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2972&highlight=doors+unlock

 

In step 8, it mentions to tape of the short section. Instead of taping it up you will use this wire to pulse the relay.

 

The relay itself has a dial which lets you change the duration of staying closed from 0-60 seconds.

 

I just used the full 60 seconds and using the jumper settings on the M2-ATX power supply, the computer stays on for another 30 seconds if I run out of time from the 60 second relay.

 

Usually, when going to my car I will just hit my doors unlocked twice about 50 ft away and by the time I get in the car and crank the ignition I get music playing.

 

One thing I forgot to include in the picture is the relay has a wire that you need to cut so that it activates on positive 12v+. If you leave it uncut it will look for a negative pulse.

untitled.pdf

[nemo]

Anyone know how much room there is behind the whole HVAC/CDchanger/Display console of the dash?

[f1anatic]

the room is next to nothing

I would not count for more than 2 cm at the most. It is VERY tight. I presume you've never taken the radio/HVAC out...

[nemo]

nope. I saw over on the mp3car forums that CombatQCB put everything back there... but he used a nano-itx board and built a custom mount right behind the LCD screen.

 

I'm trying to figure out where to put everything. I don't think there is much room under a seat for a case, nor in the glove compartment (unless i went the route of a mac-mini or Aopen minipc), and I really don't want to go into the trunk.

[deltabi]

I'm trying to go the Mac Mini route in the glovebox but I've not done a test, yet. Just taken measures and it looks like it can be done, probably opening the back of the glovebox for both ventilation and connector space.

[nemo]

^ yeah, I took some measurements for the Aopen MiniPC, and it's too tall by about 5-10mm. But it looks like the "slot" for the owners manual thing can pop out, probably creating more space. I'm gonna have to take a better look and pull some things out to see what can be done.

[f1anatic]

what you asked is different from what you commented on.

 

Behind the HVAC/radio/CD there is little to no space.

 

Behind the cubby where most of uss put the screen/where the factory nav is located - there is about 7 inches of usable space in depth and "about" enough space for a double din. There is a cross bar (structural resistance) which gets in the way but people have installed things. Look up FWEASEL or PM him.

 

Summary

1) NO space behind the HVAC/radio/CD

2) Plenty of space behind the cubby

[nemo]

what you asked is different from what you commented on.

 

Behind the HVAC/radio/CD there is little to no space.

 

Behind the cubby where most of uss put the screen/where the factory nav is located - there is about 7 inches of usable space in depth and "about" enough space for a double din. There is a cross bar (structural resistance) which gets in the way but people have installed things. Look up FWEASEL or PM him.

 

Summary

1) NO space behind the HVAC/radio/CD

2) Plenty of space behind the cubby

 

Yeah, I should have clarified what I meant. I meant more of the entire area. I was even toying around with the idea of taking out my 6CD changer (if it's even possible) and mounting the PC/CDdrive to use the existing cd slot to load cds/dvds. I haven't looked yet to see if it's possible. I don't think it is.

[NSFW]

There's a thread in the group-buy forum where HighlineCA is chopping up factory radios and sending them back with space for a double-DIN radio. It's not cheap, but it's worth a look. They craftsmanship is really good, too.

[salvi]

Where the OEM nav unit would go, there is space to put in a screen, but it is very very tight fit. I did a Legacy wagon screen in that location and when trying to put the bezel back on, it was a bitch.

 

I never recommend putting the system in the dash or glove box due to heat and vibrations. Under the seats there is no room at all, so the best place would be to place it in the trunk, which is where I placed it.

[nemo]

I really don't want to go in the trunk for a bunch of reasons. However it seems like it is going to be the only solution at this rate unless I go to the Aopen MiniPC route.

[alaskajoel]

There's a lot more space behind the HVAC then you probably think. Behind the radio/cd changer, there's almost nothing, but i've shoved my VIA Pico ITX motherboard behind there, and haven't had a problem with it. Then again, this board makes nearly No heat, and I haven't had a problem yet this spring/summer (95 degrees last week in texas!)

 

My case is only 6" by 4.5" by 2" but there's still room back there (i've got mountains of cables, and my MTX RE-Q line out converter in the space as well.

 

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC00037.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC00038.jpg

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC00040.jpg

[gfxdave99]

*standing ovation for joel!*

[alaskajoel]

*takes a bow*

when i finish my new startup/shutdown controller tommorow i'll post finished pics

[nemo]

*takes a bow*

when i finish my new startup/shutdown controller tommorow i'll post finished pics

 

How's that Pico computer performing? I think that might be an option for me. I'm really only planning on using the CarPC for GPS, Music, and ODB-II. And the occasional Video (maybe some dvds).

[alaskajoel]

I've got it hooked up with 1gb of ddr533 and a 160gb laptop hard drive and it's running like a champ! I use centrafuse xle, and i have no problem making phone calls or navigating with a dvd in the back ground. It was a little expensive, but i got it on sale for 350 with the memory and hard drive.

 

If you do decide to buy one, i wouldn't buy the artigo kit - go to ebay and find just the motherboard and header cables for 230. The power supply in the kit is crap, and the case isn't anything to write home about.

[nemo]

Thanks for the info. What motherboard does it have?

 

I am going to assume you are using bluetooth (usb?) and obviously gps (bu-353)? Has their been any issues with the Pico board? Where do you have the GPS mounted? What about a cd/dvd drive?

 

I hope you don't mind answering all the questions

[alaskajoel]

Thanks for the info. What motherboard does it have?

 

I am going to assume you are using bluetooth (usb?) and obviously gps (bu-353)? Has their been any issues with the Pico board? Where do you have the GPS mounted? What about a cd/dvd drive?

 

I hope you don't mind answering all the questions

 

Motherboard: VIA PX10000 (10cm by 7.4cm!) (just bigger then the typical playing card)

C7 1.0ghz

ddr533 (up to 1gb)

UDMA 44 pin header (powered laptop ide channel)

SATA

4 usb ports

Typical via audio, video, etc.

 

BU-353 gps, Kensington USB Bluetooth reciever, Laptop DVD-RW drive converted to USB 2.0 (mounted under the drivers seat - i may put it in the slot space in the glove box) My GPS reciever is mounted in the rear dash with velcro. The whole setup uses very little power (total of less then 60 watts) and makes nothing for heat. Pico users in other enviroments (like in a home) can use a passive heatsink, and it makes almost zero noise - i wouldn't recomend that in a car, but when it's behind your dash you don't hear the tiny fan anyway.

I replaced the factory DC PSU with an M3 120 watt micro psu with startup/shutdown controller because the factory one was picky about voltage (like 11.5 to 12.5 required) and i got sick of it not working when the car was on.

 

My goal with all my car's projects are stealth - and unless you really look for it, you wouldn't even know i had a computer in my car.

Edited May 15, 2008 by alaskajoel