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COBB / CUSCO bars with MSI endlinks


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Well, what do we do...

 

Make a ghetto spacer to use the endlinks you have,

Make a new endlink for these screwy aftermarket bars (there appears to be 3 versions of the cusco, and 2 versions of the COBB)

 

Our endlinks work perfectly with the OEM bars as is with no binding, fitment, or issues.

 

Is there a difference in bars from wagon to sedan perhaps ?

 

-mark

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I don't think there's a difference. There is between OBXT and LGT with some parts of the front suspension, but not the swaybars.

 

Could you post a pic of the stock bar with MSI endlinks? That would be a good visual for me to compare with what I saw on teh OBXT with Cusco bar and MSI endlinks.

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I'm running Cuscos F/R, lowered with STi pinks. I have some binding / fitment issues with the MSIs. I think some spacers would be good.

 

To be honest though I had the same binding issues with running the OEM end links on this setup. It was just a lot easier to fit on the OEM endlinks because the link was easy to rotate. They still sat at an extreme angle and I could see why I kept getting clunking noises from the front end.

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I'm tempted to order a set of whiteline front sway bars just to compare them to my cusco's, but the Whiteline bar measured end to end is the exact same as with my cusco.

 

i'm also lowered on bilsteins/sti pinks, and i started getting front end clunking months after installing the bilsteins/pinks/sways. Last time i was under my car, i noticed that on the inside edge of the front sway bar, there seem to be a lot of impact marks from it sliding into the crossmember laterally, and not always in the same spot. Switched to poly bushings, which helped a bit, but i still get the clunk (on the stock endlinks right now). Also made myself some ghetty jury-rigged lateral-slide-clips with rubber hose and some hose clamps, which again help, but don't always stop the clunking.

 

Would love to find a front sway bar that will work (ie, has a better bend than the cusco does, the way MY cusco bar bends inherently will bang into the crossmember no matter what i do, it just seems that i may have to live with it for now), or to see if MSI front endlinks and either wider endlinks/spacers will help.

 

I have some minor binding going on with the rear MSI endlinks and cusco rear sway bar, and i'll snag some pictures, but everything looks good on the rear side. The bushings compensate for the touch of misalignment vertically from the stock height sway bar mount and sway bar itself.

 

Also, i don't know if you read this in any of the other threads, but Mark, is there any way i can order another set of front bolts/bushings/washers, etc in case I do order the whiteline kit? A bolt/washer/bushing combo fell off when I had it mounted with the cusco front and it is somewhere on hte many miles of road i travel in LA each day. I'm perfectly willing to pay for htem, just let me know how to order or proceed.

 

 

Mike

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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Make a ghetto spacer to use the endlinks you have.

 

Is a "Ghetto" spacer such a bad idea?

 

I can get a local machine shop to make me a nice 1 inch aluminum spacer to solve my end-link alignment issues. What is wrong, or what are the disadvantages of doing that?

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Hi Mike,

I wish I had known when I sent your shifter and bushes not too long ago. I would have included the parts then.

 

I can send some out to you, don't you need some lateral links as well? ;)

 

Anyways, tomorrow I am checking out the fitment issue solutions and will post on friday with our solution.

 

I fear that an aluminum spacer of that size over that span will flex too much defeating the purpose of HD endlinks ...

 

Cheers,

-mark

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Hey Mark,

 

It wasn't me that ordered shifter/bushings ;). But thanks.

 

No lateral links at the moment, a bit much for a newbie like me, but i'm in for hearing how hte test fitment goes tomorrow.

 

Thanks again for everything,

Mike

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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Rear endlinks went on very easliy. Fronts took a little creativity.

 

My install tip: Just loosely thread on the nuts of both endlinks. Then, start to tighten everything down, switching sides as I went.

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Hi Guys,

Two options here.

 

I prefer Option #2 (on the RH), I would only charge transport costs, but you have to cut it to the length you need.

 

OPTION #1

MSI can manufacture 3 different front kits to accomodate different bars. We would make them bar specific to so speak. Best performing piece, but I can not do this for free unfortunatly. Price would be 200$ per kit.

 

OPTION #2

We will provide a new sleeve to and longer hardware to accomodate offset bars. Each user will have to cut the sleeve to appropriate size for his application. We will provide these free of charge, you will be responsible only for transport costs.

 

Let me know what guys want, and we will start a list of how many kits I need to make.

 

Cheers,

-mark

front-fix-kit.thumb.jpg.68c4c9157752b79ca12942157cd1cfaa.jpg

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Option 2 sounds good to me.

 

Is there anyway you could test this solution on a lowered car with cusco sways installed to confirm that the fix works?

 

I was under my car yesterday to install a set of headers and DP. I took a look to check out how the end links were holding up and my bushings failed, the washers cracked a nice ring around the bushings.

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Hey Mark,

 

I'll go with option 2 for me, along with another set of bolts and bushings for my front endlinks... i have no problem cutting them to fit, and even with the spacer they should be better than the stock endlinks :p

 

 

Mike

SoCal Duck Hunters Club - Unit 52
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Option #2 is the best.

 

Yea you may have to get it cut, but then you can still swap in the OEM bar if you like. (I will run the OEM bar for auto-X so my car will rotate like crazy!)

 

Ready and waiting for the pieces in the mail!

 

Thanks again Mark.

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