Where to take your car for work in SoCal.

[jasondaven]

Socalsleeper did the clutch in my 05OBXT yesterday and did a great job. The attention to detail was always there. I will definatley have him do any needed work on my car in the future. Thanks!

[m sprank]

Awesome. Sorry I could not make it. Had an appointment with Drew88. Installed an HTA68 (hybrid) turbo, FP oil supply line, KS Tech intake, Whiteline steering rack bushings, ProDrive cans and wrapped the DP. Then Base tuned it so Infamous can dial it in next weekend. Drew was a big help since we had so much to do in one day.

[LosAngelesLGT]

I have a good rep here...

 

I would absolutely call SoCalSleeper to work on my car. He has a long and technical automotive history with some high end sportscars;) MSprank has a looooong history of racing and has been a pioneer in the LGT aftermarket for years. Really hard to go wrong either way!!!

 

The first time MSprank gets booked solid, when I need work, SoCalSleeper WILL hear from me - GOOD TO MEET YOU AT S3 BTW SoCalSleeper! I have not hit up SoCal already because I have been making MSprank take my $$ to do installs since before he had list prices. Its important to know that MSprank, SoCalSleeper and the tuner Infamous1 is that they are going to LISTEN TO YOU and HEAR WHAT YOU ARE SAYING AS A CUSTOMER.

 

Tell these guys what your goals are and what you want to do with your car and they will help guide you to your goals in the smartest, most efficient way possible. These guys are not going to overbuild you and burn your money creating the car they want to see come out of their name/work ("Oh, you only want 350hp? <sigh> Oh you only have 4 grand? <sigh>" NONE OF THAT B.S.).

 

...or you can go somewhere someone will try to talk you into the turbo they want to install or the build they want to do or have done or blame the leak/lack of boost/problem on YOU.

 

I think we all know who to take our cars to don't we? MSprank or SoCalSleeper for mechanical installs and Infamous1 for tunes.

 

:wub:Thanks a lot guys:wub:

 

(EDIT: In addition I would also use these guys for any maintenance work if that is not clear!)

Edited August 8, 2010 by LosAngelesLGT

[socalsleeper]

Well I speak for all of the mentioned and say thank you for the props. We all try hard to do quality work and listen to what the "customer" has to say. We do this mostly on the side for a bit of extra $$ and mostly because we enjoy the busted knuckles and smell of raw fuel. I know Msprank and I are not trying to directly compete with each other and take the others business away. As a matter of fact we live close to each other and have yet to do so, but are both willing to lend each other a hand if ever needed. I was saying last night that I have met other "online fourms" and the LGT crew is a great group of guys that try to get along and help each other out. I plan to do so even after my LGT is long gone... Don't feel shy to drop any one of us a PM for work or just a question any time.

Until then happy Modding.

SoCalSleeper!

[m sprank]

^ +1.

[chongl]

I have an 09 WRX...but working on it would pretty much be like an LGT...need clutch and flywheel installed. Any of you SD guys have a price?

 

Thanks!

[socalsleeper]

I have an 09 WRX...but working on it would pretty much be like an LGT...need clutch and flywheel installed. Any of you SD guys have a price?

 

Thanks!

Just shoot M-Sprank or I a PM. He will travel, but looks like he is getting booked more frequently, ( good for him) and I work out of my home/ garage.

I have a pile of clutches stacking up in my garage now so either of us can help you depends on what your preferences, and time line are.

SoCalSleeper.

[m sprank]

This weekend is booked. Next week looks to be filling (lots of requests for quote). If you need it done fast, socal is probably your man. Not that I can't or won't do it. Just not sure of scheduling for you.

[yjfang]

Just had Mike S. do Timing Belt service on my '05 LGT Wagon - unlimited. Great service. Nice guy too. Highly recommended. Will be going back to Mike and Co. for other work done.

[m sprank]

Thanks Joe.

 

What an event. Must have either missed by one tooth or had a cam on TDC2 the first time. Have not done that in more than 10 years. Last time was my 1987 Toyota truck. No big deal, just go back in and correct the mistake. Woops.

 

My OCD kicked into HIGH gear. I saw that the belt was no longer lined up with the timing marks on the gears. So, I pulled it and reinstalled. Then instead of just turning the motor over once, I cranked it 2 full revolutions of the belt. Figured that should get me back to where the belt started. WRONG. So, I pull the belt a good 5 times trying to figure out why the heck the car is coming out of timing when I rotate it by hand. Check every tooth of every gear as the belt goes around to make sure there is no slippage. Since I missed the first time I was hesitant to put it back together and just start it. Even though every other belt or chain I have ever done I just cranked it once by hand and let her rip.

 

It was dark and I was tired and weary, so I called itsme. He was gracious enough to come over and give me a second set of eyes. He saw what I saw after we installed the belt together (again). We both "assumed" the AVCS was not in play with the car in "N" and off. WRONG. It is deff not a 1:1 ratio from the crank to the cams.

 

End result. After itsme saw and confirmed what I had been questioning for 6 hours, I just put it back together and let her rip. Guess what. I had it right the whole time. I had just never actually cranked a motor by hand full revolutions of the belt and watched before. Not on a Subie. The belt is only lined up when you install it. I doubt it ever lines up again.

 

Embarrassing day for sure. Just glad the car was good to go when I left. I didn't get to sleep until 3am because I was so wound up about the damn day. You learn something new every day.

[socalsleeper]

Just an FYI... From a recent and on-going experiance. If you have aftermarket parts and need things "adjusted" don't expect the local Sears guy to know WTF is up with your car. Take it to a shop or someone like M-Sprank, Infamous and I, that knows how these parts interact together. You will say time money and the headache.

[m sprank]

If you have aftermarket parts and anything is "off" dont expect 90%% of mechanics to know WTF is going on.

 

Heck, it takes me time to figure some issues out. Stage 3 cars, twinscroll set ups, fueling delivery/spark issues, interactions between aftermarket electronics devices. You name it, I see it.

 

Most mechanics dont get to see and work with all the different parts and set ups I or socal see. The engine bays of my own cars leave most mechanics scratching their heads.

 

Subies are a specialty. Bring yours to someone who knows them.

[socalsleeper]

Funny thing is we found out what what up with MorningWoodie's Misfire. BOV was out of wack.. allen key and some test drives... good to go.

[m sprank]

I did that once already. Replaced the gasket. Lubed the internals. Adjusted the crap out of it. Never got it tight enough to cause surge though. Worked like a champ for 2 days then went to crap.

 

After that I drained and wiped the tank. Ran a tank of race gas. Ran perfect. Once he went back to 91, crap.

 

I was holding off on the plugs till after the fuel. He ran the colder plugs for months with no issues. But, Bryan ran colder plugs for 1 year with no issues and then one day, bam. Same issue.

 

I pulled a plug and checked color and gap. All good. But, I figured the race gas would run better with the colder plugs. So, I intended to swap back to OEM plugs and see what happened. I dont see how all four injectors went south at the same time. His fuel pressure seems good too. I see no codes thrown from the cam oiling valves.

 

Car just misfires and stalls at idle (once warm). It is even "intermittent". Lets see how long the BPV plays nice now.

[Naylor]

Nmorning woodie is running a twinscroll set up right?

[m sprank]

Yes. Twinscroll, FMIC, PE Injectors, HB Tune, Lots of nice parts. Love the wagon. It sat for 4-6 weeks while he wrapped it in flat white vinyl. Then after he restarted it, the misfire problem at idle began.

[socalsleeper]

Yeah it was too tight, I backed it out about 1 1/2 turns and ran like a champ.. NO probs... yet. I had the same crap happen with my Blitz valve. I have to readjust every so offten. ????

[m sprank]

He has a GFB. I have LOTS of experience with the GFB and plenty of tech time spent with Pete at GFB.

 

The spring setting is just to balance when the valve opens against surge. It has nothing to so with idle pressure.

 

I set it as tight as possible because we could not get the car to surge. I tried everything from the lightest setting to the stiffest with the same results.

 

Best performance is achieved when the spring fights the compressor to the last moment. This causes a "millisecond" surge. When the compressor and spring are fighting at just the right amount. The spring is opening and the compressor "coughs" as the pressure is released. I can make it happen perfectly in my car.

 

In the wagon I never got enough spring pressure to fight the compressor. Using the stiffer spring and 100% recirc (on a FMIC) causes the car to stall (all cars). I would recommend going 50/50 on the BPV and using the stiffer spring. The lighter spring is currently installed.

 

So, really you made no adjustments. All you did was move the spring pretension some. Like I said, I did this through the entire range moving at 1/2 turn increments. I had the same results as you. As soon as I started playing with the BPV everything was happy again. Next day, crapped out. Could try another BPV (OEM) as a test (I had none available at the time). But I fear the problem still exists.

 

It is an odd one, since the car ran fine before sitting. But if I could have the car for more than a few hours I am sure I can get it dialed in. I would love to get the OEM plugs back in and pull some data, then have Shamar look at the tune and fueling for me. I dont have a spare spring for the GFB, I have the lighter one spare. But I can get another and try that too. Would be easy to swap to an OEM BPV and use it as a test for day or two.

Edited September 9, 2010 by m sprank

[morning woodie wagon]

After that I drained and wiped the tank. Ran a tank of race gas. Ran perfect. Once he went back to 91, crap.

 

I pulled a plug and checked color and gap. All good. But, I figured the race gas would run better with the colder plugs. So, I intended to swap back to OEM plugs and see what happened. I dont see how all four injectors went south at the same time. His fuel pressure seems good too. I see no codes thrown from the cam oiling valves.

 

Car just misfires and stalls at idle (once warm). It is even "intermittent". Lets see how long the BPV plays nice now.

 

Such great service goes get race gas then drives down to my house only to drain tank and put the race gas.

 

Bad part is it's happening again. The misfire does seem to appear only when it's warmed up. But once the check light goes off, the stumble will stay even after reseting the code. Weird thing is it seems to appear near half tank.

 

Yeah it was too tight, I backed it out about 1 1/2 turns and ran like a champ.. NO probs... yet. I had the same crap happen with my Blitz valve. I have to readjust every so offten. ????

 

I messed with the BOV a little more but still getting the stumble. I installed the stock BOV for a day a couple of weeks ago and it didn't go away

 

 

In the wagon I never got enough spring pressure to fight the compressor. Using the stiffer spring and 100% recirc (on a FMIC) causes the car to stall (all cars). I would recommend going 50/50 on the BPV and using the stiffer spring. The lighter spring is currently installed.

 

So, really you made no adjustments. All you did was move the spring pretension some. Like I said, I did this through the entire range moving at 1/2 turn increments. I had the same results as you. As soon as I started playing with the BPV everything was happy again. Next day, crapped out. Could try another BPV (OEM) as a test (I had none available at the time). But I fear the problem still exists.

 

It is an odd one, since the car ran fine before sitting. But if I could have the car for more than a few hours I am sure I can get it dialed in. I would love to get the OEM plugs back in and pull some data, then have Shamar look at the tune and fueling for me. I dont have a spare spring for the GFB, I have the lighter one spare. But I can get another and try that too. Would be easy to swap to an OEM BPV and use it as a test for day or two.

 

I'll go ahead and try the 50/50 setting for the bov tomorrow. Then I'll try the stock one again. socalsleeper helped me out with the spark plugs so stock plugs are back into the car.

 

I'll keep you guys updated. So good having you guys close enough without having to make the trip all the way to LA

[m sprank]

Damn. When you told me you got the OEM plugs in I had my fingers crossed.

 

There is no fueling compensation table for idle based on motor temp. I tried. My car does not like hot starts on e85. It needs to richen up for starts when warm. Tune cant do it. I use my right foot. So, I am not sure tuning would help. I am sure Shamar could get the entire car dialed in better, but WTF?

 

No cam oiling codes or I would be going after cam oilers. FPR should be bad no matter what the motor temp. Same with injectors. Either they idle or they dont. Engine temp should not be a factor.

 

Gremlins. Friggin Gremlins.

[socalsleeper]

Yeah he told me it was on Cylinder #3 so that narrows the options.... It is not the whole engine, or one bank or the other, just #3. The plugs are new, the coils have been swapped and it stayed at #3, the tune was good before it sat, I can't help but wonder if there is faultly electical connection some where? To be so intermitant dosen't sound like a hard component failure at least not yet. I doubt it is an internal issue that is pretty low on the list of things to consider given the facts.

[m sprank]

I have seen him misfire on all four cylinders. 3 just seems to be the first to throw a code. Could be loose wires on the coil packs. I have seen issues there after changes of plugs. I have seen superglue used back east to make the connections stay, lol.

 

If you moved the packs and changed the plugs and it is just cylinder 3 now, that is different.

[COBB Tuning]

COBB Tuning is opening a new location in Fountain Valley later this fall. This will be a full retail, fabrication and tuning facility. Stay tuned for more details on an opening date.

 

Travis

COBB Tuning

[morning woodie wagon]

Just wanted to give an update for you guys. I reset the misfire code, then messed around with the GFB bov. I ran it 50/50 but couldn't adjust it correctly and would stall. I put it back to full recirc and adjusted the valve so that it idle's fine again. It is now almost fully neg, the adjustment bolt is slightly higher than the bov. Is my bov bad? Should I replace it?

[m sprank]

You have a FMIC. If you go 100% recirc you need the lighter spring. If you go 50/50 you need the heavier spring. No car idles using the GFB BPV at 100% recirc with a FMIC and the heavy spring.

 

You said you tried a OEM BPV and the problem persisted. This seems to say no. BPV should be closed at idle. Only issue with the BPV is a leak, not holding boost, or like I thought the first time, that your BPV was sticking open. That is why I replaced the gasket, took it apart and lubed it internally and adjusted it. If you tried another BPV and the problem was still there...

 

Is it misfiring on just cylinder3 now? If so, at least there is a place to focus on.