2006Specb122 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 5w40 liqui moly full synthetic 3-4k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I'm currently running Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 at 3250 OCIs. Not that much of a price ding over the Valvo Dino 5W-30 at 148K miles. Will do a UOA at the next change to see how it's doing. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 SBT, That's correct, or you can use a 5w-40/10w-40 synthetic, which will be thick enough to meet the ACEA A3/B3 specs. This is more of a concern if you're seeing significant fuel dilution, which will thin even a shear stable oil. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 So reading this, would I have to buy the non-ILSAC Grade 5W-30 "MST" SynPower to have ACEA A3/B3 coverage, or is the ILSAC Grade 5W-30 SynPower and ACEA A1/A5 standard okay? http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower.pdf "MST" is a "thicker" 5w-30 for diesel applications. It has a weaker add pack, "Mid-Saps". With a short interval, the mid-saps package really isn't a problem, so if you need to run a bit thicker oil 5w-30 MST would be fine. If your looking for thicker, I'd probably jump to the 5w-40 MST and run 4000-4500miles per OCI. Is the 5w-30 MST easy to source for you? I've never seen it retail. I'm currently running Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 at 3250 OCIs. Not that much of a price ding over the Valvo Dino 5W-30 at 148K miles. Will do a UOA at the next change to see how it's doing. Also, if Napa runs a sale on their House brand Synthetic, buy a couple changes if you continue running Valvoline. Napa Synthetic is made by Ashland, who makes Valvoline, and they seem to be the same product from voa/uoa results. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 By the way, some of the most shear stable formulations are going to be the 10w-30 and 10w-40, full synthetic "motorcycle oils". Don't pick an oil based on label engineering. Choose it based on the physical and chemical specs of what's in the bottle. Lubricating a 10,000 rpm, wet clutch motorcycle is even more demanding than a turbocharged gas engine car. In terms of both mechanical and thermal loads. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 I've heard also that motorcycle oils have zinc added to the mix but using this in a car isn't a good idea due to catalytic convertors. Not a physicist here so I admit I read more magazines than textbooks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I run motul 5w30. Typically I change between 3000-3500 miles. My last oci was about 4k. Sent out the sample to blackstone. I'll let y'all know how that goes. The car has 35k on it and has only ran motul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I've heard also that motorcycle oils have zinc added to the mix but using this in a car isn't a good idea due to catalytic convertors. Not a physicist here so I admit I read more magazines than textbooks. It's true modern motor oils sill contain zinc, but the amount has gradually gone down over the years. They have also come up with a better, low volatility type of zinc which is also supposed to be more catalytic converter friendly. I don't know how widely used it is though, I haven't done enough research to say. That's actually one of the reasons why I don't use, nor recommend a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) like shell rotella t6. Diesel engine oils like rotella are allowed to have more zinc than regular PCMO's (passenger car motor oils). If my car didn't consume any oil, I wouldn't really be too worried. But since my car does consume a fair amount of oil, I am worried about my catalytic converters, especially considering how much pzev cats cost. I actually just remembered that a lot of LGT members go catless, so they don't have much to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Actually what the additive manufacturers have come up with is low volatility phosphorus. The latest API/SN gas engine specification includes a dedicated test to quantify phosphorus loss in gas engine oils under controlled conditions. The latest CJ-4, Heavy Duty diesel spec allows 1200 ppm of phosphorus, compared to 800 ppm for an API/SN gas engine oil. There are some 5w-40 "European" oils with reduced levels of sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur. These are the MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, VW 502.00/505.01 oils. These are required to have 700-900 ppm of P and correspondingly less Zn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Rotella T6 5w40 with K&N filter/ or Subaru filter. And now last 3 w/ Tokyo Roki rx8 filter. 3750 OCI for almost 30k. Love it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 You're right tooslick, it's low volatility phosphorus that they've come up with. I read a few different technical articles that stated low volatility zddp (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate for those who aren't familiar with it), which made me think low volatility zinc. I didn't know it was possible to lower the volatility of just the phosphorus of the zddp, though I admit I don't know a whole lot about zddp. The link below seems to do a good job of explaining some things, though I'm tired and am having trouble processing everything it's saying. http://phx.corporate-ir.net/External.File?item=UGFyZW50SUQ9MTEzMnxDaGlsZElEPS0xfFR5cGU9Mw==&t=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Good info. Funny how all the evidence seem to end up pointing you towards what the manufacturers recommend in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooslick Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 From memory, I believe the API/SN specification requires that > 79% of the phosphorus be retained in the standard test. I've never looked at the actual test procedures. Note that xw-40 and xw-50 grades - even if they are SN rated - are not required to meet all the requirements of the API specification. Only the xw-20 and xw-30 grades are required to do so. For example, a 5w-40 HD diesel oil with higher ash content may not provide the same high temp deposit control. These are allowed to have 25% more metallic ash (1.0%, vs 0.8%), than the API/SN specification. TS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 For those wanting to run a Xw40 but have concerns about high zinc content, take a look at Valvoline Synpower 5w40. It's a mid saps, carries the Porsche A40 spec and is on sale this month at NAPA for $4.99 a quart. I don't see a problem running HDEO if your not burning oil. If you are losing oil, probably time replace your PCV valve... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Mobil 0w-40 would be another good choice. $25.xx every day at Walmart for five quarts. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboboost Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I've run M1 0w-40 for the past 30k+ miles and have never had an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I'm running M1 0w40 right now as well, btw. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 For those wanting to run a Xw40 but have concerns about high zinc content, take a look at Valvoline Synpower 5w40. It's a mid saps, carries the Porsche A40 spec and is on sale this month at NAPA for $4.99 a quart. I don't see a problem running HDEO if your not burning oil. If you are losing oil, probably time replace your PCV valve... Just picked up 6 quarts. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 If you want to bother with rebates, Synpower gets even better: http://www.napaknowsrebates.com/ All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Bought mine on 4/30. Rebate starts on 5/1... - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08legacygtturbo Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Eneos performance 5-30w every 3,000 miles I drive aggressively so thinking about maybe a little thicker weight but we will see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Amsoil XL 5w-30 changed at 1k and again at 3k. I'm currently at 4700 and haven't used any oil yet. Plan to change every 3k miles. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Eneos performance 5-30w every 3,000 miles I drive aggressively so thinking about maybe a little thicker weight but we will see 5w40 would be a better choice, do you let the engine cool befor you shut it off after driving it hard ? I tend to coast after I've driven it hard. Amsoil XL 5w-30 changed at 1k and again at 3k. I'm currently at 4700 and haven't used any oil yet. Plan to change every 3k miles. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk You guy's may want to send a sample off to Blackstone Labs. It might be interesting to see what they say. I hear good things about eneos. soloz, I run 7000 mile OCI on my Amsoil European 5w-40 full SAPS, the lab said to leave it in 2000 more miles and send in another sample. I just change it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08legacygtturbo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I use Eneos oil because it stays cleaner and holds up to the heat better then some other oils it's stays cleaner in the senc that they remove some of the natural phosfrous from the oil and that helps because it is one of the first properties in the oil to break down due to heat this is were some people think their oil has broke down and bad when it is I fact still good but is dark in color because of the broken down properties within the oil wether they are a natural component or a man made product for a blend package When I change my oil at 3,000 miles on the Eneos the oil almost still looks new so if you use this oil and maybe others as we'll that they don't have as manny contaminants in them as others might my engine seems to run every smooth with Eneos oil I am pleased And max capacity you mentioned using Eneos 5-40 might be better why do you refer that weight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08legacygtturbo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I usually Drive with a very light foot after driving hard and I let my car run at idle for about 5-10minuts before I shut it off I use more gas but that's ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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