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Megan Racing coilovers are here!


Boostjunkie

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I'm EXTREMELY likely to order them at this point. I read in another thread about having to eplace parts every 45K miles (which is about 18 months for me). How long does it take (with parts on hand ) to replace?
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I was asking about the rebuild interval for replacing the cores. How hard is this to do?

 

Typically the dampeners will go 45-60K miles before needing replacement. Of course that will vary up or down depending on how you drive the car, how you have them setup and the roads you drive on. Instead of an inconvenient rebuild process where the coilovers have to be removed from the car and sent in for a rebuild, Megan Racing simply sends you completely new dampeners for $85/ea. From there you since pull the coilovers from the car, spin on the new dampeners and pop them back on the car. Quick, easy and convenient.

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Wow. That sounds really easy. What maintenance is involved in the springs of the coilover? How often would they typically need to be replaced? When they do... what is the proceedure?

 

No maintenance or replacement interval for the springs. They should outlast your desire to own your car.

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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any issue with raising and lowering with the Perrin anti sway bars present?

When lowering or raising....

I guess that it would be best to lift entire car, take wheels off, and then adjust height to all 4 coilovers... measure distance to to ground, and then add wheels, and drop to ground (sorry to be so ignorant.... I don't know anyone that has these). I DEFINETELY want these.... THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any issue with raising and lowering with the Perrin anti sway bars present?

When lowering or raising....

I guess that it would be best to lift entire car, take wheels off, and then adjust height to all 4 coilovers... measure distance to to ground, and then add wheels, and drop to ground (sorry to be so ignorant.... I don't know anyone that has these). I DEFINETELY want these.... THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

when installing or adjusting the rear coilovers disconnect the endlinks.

 

no preload until the coilovers are installed.

 

 

i learned the hard way.

 

 

the fronts are cake walk either adjusting or installing

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i learned the hard way.

what do you mean buy " i learned it the hard way."

 

I got mine installed this friday night, it was fairly easy in a shop with air tools. The initial impression after drop was magnificine, car looked beutifully like never before.

 

I get this clunking sound in the rear with every bump, big or small. is that normal ? i have preloads of 50lb all around.

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No maintenance or replacement interval for the springs. They should outlast your desire to own your car.

 

hahaha that could be misconstrued as these springs make you want to sell your car.

car for sale. PM me!
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I don't have End links or stout mounts installed yet. I'm leaning towards getting the OB springs as the roads in NJ aren't going to let me get away with lowering the car more then I have without leaving behind half of my drivetrain. How long does it take to adjust height? I assume it requires lifting car, and taking whhels off.... that doesn't take long. What else???? Thanks for all of your input!

 

Chris

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I am hearing a lot of people commenting on how good the car looks lowered (which I personally don't care for with the fenders sticking so far out), but not a lot of people commenting on how the car rides/handles the twisties.

impressive gain of control of your car, massive gain on steering response. On high way, car glue to the ground ride like a roller coaster now.

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Any chance of a set with 4/6 springs by custom order?

(Same rates as Pinks BTW)

 

4kg/mm springs are not available. Honestly, I've tried a 6/6 setup and did not notice much of a difference in ride quality compared to the standard spring rates (6/8). I've had a couple people who had cars with Pinks comment that the MR coilovers ride better with the standard spring rates. Please don't get caught up in thinking that spring rate is the primary determining factor in ride quality. IMHO it is number 3 behind dampener calibration and bushing/tire compliance.

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when installing or adjusting the rear coilovers disconnect the endlinks.

 

no preload until the coilovers are installed.

i learned the hard way.

 

the fronts are cake walk either adjusting or installing

 

 

Now that I dont understand. You mean the springs arn't preloaded? And you can adjust the spring load? (I'm pretty new to coilovers, i've only ever had springs before) So I'm assuming by raising or lowering the car you adjust the load then?

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Now that I dont understand. You mean the springs arn't preloaded? And you can adjust the spring load? (I'm pretty new to coilovers, i've only ever had springs before) So I'm assuming by raising or lowering the car you adjust the load then?

 

With coilovers that have separate spring preload and height adjustments (such as the MR coilovers) you can vary both independently. The body of the assembly is lengthened and shortened to adjust height. Ideally you don't want to change preload to make height adjustments. Preload should be set first, then height.

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I am hearing a lot of people commenting on how good the car looks lowered (which I personally don't care for with the fenders sticking so far out), but not a lot of people commenting on how the car rides/handles the twisties.

 

Need to get some fat rubber to fill out the wheelwells! :cool:

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With coilovers that have separate spring preload and height adjustments (such as the MR coilovers) you can vary both independently. The body of the assembly is lengthened and shortened to adjust height. Ideally you don't want to change preload to make height adjustments. Preload should be set first, then height.

alright. So the way they come they are not preloaded? So will I need a spring compressor to compress these? How do you know how compressed they are?

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alright. So the way they come they are not preloaded? So will I need a spring compressor to compress these? How do you know how compressed they are?

 

You do not need a spring compressor to adjust preload on coilovers. You simple twist the spring perch up and down the threaded body to change the preload setting. To see how much preload you have, you simply measure the distance of the spring perch to the height perch at the bottom with the spring perch just snugged up to the spring. Then raise the spring perch by the amount you want. That distance multiplied by the spring rate is the amount preload you are running. If you are in any way unsure of what you are doing, I would HIGHLY suggest having an experienced professional installer do the work for you.

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I will definetely NOT consider doing this on my own... and will have my buds that did the HID, springs, and TBE installs do this for me. Anyone interested in a sweet deal for H & R lowering springs connected to stock shock/struts cheap? I will throw in stock springs... all with low mileage. CHEAP!
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i've installed springs before this cant be any more difficult

 

The install itself is actually easier because you don't have to compress the stock springs to remove them. The things that seems to confuse many people are properly setting preload and ride height and making sure all the springs perches are snugged down securely.

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Understood. That is why I'm leaning towards getting the coilovers... instead of paying someone to remove the H & R's and re0install OEM. Hopefully someone will be interested in the H & R's since they are already compressed. I hate no clue what you mean by seting preload? Sorry... My last car was an Infiniti.
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