Jimothy_14 Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 Currently destroying my shoulders and having to use 3 different tools to unscrew the top brake line on the top brake line of the clutch master cylinder. Does anyone know an easier way to unscrew the brake line? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Nope, that's pretty much what it is. No easy way to access other than laying on your back and tiny turns of the wrench. If you can get a 2nd hand up in there, sometimes it helps to hold the line aligned with the female side of the fitting and you can spin the flare with your fingers if its already backed off a few threads. Are you doing a clutch damper delete? I did the one on my car in addition to helping out 2 other members doing them on their cars. You do learn some tricks but nothing super helpful. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 9 hours ago, GTEASER said: Nope, that's pretty much what it is. No easy way to access other than laying on your back and tiny turns of the wrench. If you can get a 2nd hand up in there, sometimes it helps to hold the line aligned with the female side of the fitting and you can spin the flare with your fingers if its already backed off a few threads. Are you doing a clutch damper delete? I did the one on my car in addition to helping out 2 other members doing them on their cars. You do learn some tricks but nothing super helpful. I'm only replacing it with a new and functional OEM master cylinder. i saw the thread you posted about the damper delete though, and i don't think i entirely understand what the damper delete entails and what benefits it has for the car. could you explain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 15 hours ago, Jimothy_14 said: I'm only replacing it with a new and functional OEM master cylinder. i saw the thread you posted about the damper delete though, and i don't think i entirely understand what the damper delete entails and what benefits it has for the car. could you explain? The damper, or delay valve, is designed to slip the clutch a little upon engagement. It delays the full positive engagement of the pressure plate to minimize driveline shock and make engagement smoother for those unfamiliar with working a clutch. The side effects of it's presence are several... 1) will wear you clutch disc faster due to the slight slippage it induces (verified a member during a conversation with South Bend), 2) causes the engagement point felt in the clutch pedal to be inconsistent, can be described as a floating engagement point which is different with every engagement, 3) because of this floating engagement point, can make even the most seasoned manual drivers to feel like rookies during spirited driving with quick up and down shifts, and 4) can make smooth heel/toe downshifts nearly impossible. Also, at least one member has had the damper burst while driving, leaving him stranded and ruining his dress pants and wing-tip dress shoes when it puked hydraulic fluid all over them. If you are in there messing with all those pipes and re-bleeding the system, I would highly recommend getting the damper out of there. It's literally right there. Remove it. The thread that you mentioned has the part number and instructions to replace it with an OEM coupler. 1 GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 Thanks for the explanation. the only other Manual I've driven was a GMC 6500 with a diesel so I've never really noticed it, but my mom always compared the clutch and throttle feel unfavorably to others. it does sound like a good thing to do, even if it takes another afternoon to finish everything up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Any updates? Were you successful? Is it better with the damper deleted? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 damper is out, New master cylinder is in. ended up stripping the old master cylinder to damper line, so that got replaced in the process. waiting on my brother to come over later this week to bleed the clutch. all in all, i should have gotten that 16$ brake line ratchet thing a week before i did. attached is a picture of the new master cylinder 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Let us know what you think and how the clutch feels with the damper out. I suspect you will love it! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 i need a link for that brake line socket, please and thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8C8XS4Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 This is the 10mm one, fits most if not all brake lines in my legacy. Not great for breaking things loose, but a flare nut wrench or just open end 10mm can do that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 ooh gotcha, yeah seen them before, i thought you found like an actual socket that you used. i've got the crows feet flare line sockets but they kinda suck, that might be the ticket when i finally get around to doing that mod (he said...having had the part in stock for 6+ years.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 Update, got brake fluid to cycle through, but now the clutch is very tough and the car won't go into gear. Any ideas as to what's doing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 13 Author Share Posted March 13 to provide a few more details, i used DOT 3 brake fluid, bled the clutch, and then attempted to start the car. Clutch pedal wouldn't go in, so i pressed the switch that tells the car it's in while in neutral. once i attempted to put it in gear, the clutch didn't engage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 At the bellhousing where the clutch fork goes in, is the little rod between the slave cylinder and clutch fork in the correct position, centered in the dimple of the clutch fork? GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 I think so. the picture is the car after resting for a day. it looks and feels centered on the dimple, and seems more extended than it should Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Yeah, that looks overextended, like you accidentally blew the slave cylinder piston out of the cylinder when bleeding the system, maybe. Unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, I bet the little rod came out of the depression in the center of the cylinder and is cockeyed in there, make sure its all lined up correctly. Don't drop the rod into the bellhousing by accident .....ask me how I know. 2 GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 14 Author Share Posted March 14 fault found. FML VID_20240314_155251067.mp4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Looks like a busted clutch fork. Definitely a weak point on manual Subarus especially with a lot of miles. Sorry to hear. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 You may have just a broken spring or unseated from the pivot ball, gonna have to dig into it, sorry. I probably have spares if you need something. Also, if you want to go heavy (which is why I have spares): https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0163a-forged-clutch-fork-wrx-1108 https://www.verus-engineering.com/shop/a0068a-billet-clutch-fork-pivot-brz-frs-gt86-wrx-366 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 there's a cracked stud in the transmission housing, so I'm getting it towed to a transmission shop tomorrow morning 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothy_14 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 just got it back from the transmission specialist shop, the clutch is way lighter, but not uncomfortably so. will make a post with pictures and build documentation once i wash it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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